Doug&Deb Posted September 3, 2024 Report Posted September 3, 2024 This question is for those who are running an electric pump as their primary fuel delivery. Where are you mounting it. I know it needs to be low and as close to the tank as possible. Mine is on the frame rail just after the axle kick up. I did that for serviceability but I’m wondering if asking it to pull fuel over the axle is going to impact the longevity. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 4, 2024 Report Posted September 4, 2024 the pump will pull a bit, closer to the source the better the pulling it is however an excellent pusher. I placed my fuel pump in what is similar to your description. One of the few tasks that I did not photograph it seems... Quote
Doug&Deb Posted September 4, 2024 Author Report Posted September 4, 2024 Thanks. That eases my concern. I’ve had this Airtex on for 5 years now but only recently I started using it as my only pump. Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted September 4, 2024 Report Posted September 4, 2024 3 hours ago, Doug&Deb said: This question is for those who are running an electric pump as their primary fuel delivery. Where are you mounting it. I know it needs to be low and as close to the tank as possible. Mine is on the frame rail just after the axle kick up. I did that for serviceability but I’m wondering if asking it to pull fuel over the axle is going to impact the longevity. Same location on my P15, the Carter 6v pump has been the sole pump five flawless years. 2 Quote
hi_volt Posted April 8 Report Posted April 8 (edited) I just relocated the electric fuel pump on my coupe from where P.O. had it mounted in the engine bay. It's now located on the frame rail approximately under the seat. The first picture shows the fuel pump and fuel filter. I cut a section out of my original steel fuel lines to accommodate the pump and filter. The first picture, from right to left (as the gas flows) shows (1) 5/16" fuel hose from the original steel line from the tank to a brass 5/16" to 3/8" hose adapter. (2) 3/8" fuel hose from the hose adapter to the fuel filter. (3) the fuel filter. (4) 3/8" fuel hose from the fuel filter to the fuel pump. (5) the fuel pump. (6) 5/16" fuel hose from the fuel pump to the original steel line to the carburetor. The Carter fuel pump has a 3/8" inlet connection and a 5/16" outlet connection and the fuel filter has 3/8" inlet and outlet, hence the need for the 5/16" to 3/8" adapter. The second picture shows the new fuel tank with a Dorman 785-402D fitting (1/2-20 threads) with 5/16" barb fitting and rubber fuel hose to the original steel fuel line. Edited April 8 by hi_volt Quote
hepkat63 Posted April 8 Report Posted April 8 just as a side note, if you haven't already, you might consider an electric fuel pump controller. These work (if you don't know) by sitting inline with the positive power as so they only work for three seconds upon key on and then turn off again - unless, there is a pulse from the negative side of the coil. The whole point being, if you're ever in an accident, the fuel pump won't keep running. Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted April 9 Report Posted April 9 (edited) Another option for interrupting power to the full-time electric pump is an inertia switch. The one on my P15 is a Ford item that has a magnetic switch that disengages when the device is subjected to a substantial jolt (crash). It can be reset with the red button on top if someone bumps into you in a parking lot. I have mined wired with male/female connectors so it can be easily bypassed if it goes bad on a road trip. It controls the power lead from the ignition switch to the pump. Also visible is the new fuel line that goes from the frame rail then across the firewall to the carb, this eliminates the original hard lines in the front of the car that run close to the exhaust manifold (vapor lock....). Edited April 9 by Sam Buchanan 1 Quote
hi_volt Posted April 9 Report Posted April 9 14 hours ago, hepkat63 said: just as a side note, if you haven't already, you might consider an electric fuel pump controller. These work (if you don't know) by sitting inline with the positive power as so they only work for three seconds upon key on and then turn off again - unless, there is a pulse from the negative side of the coil. The whole point being, if you're ever in an accident, the fuel pump won't keep running. Yes, I have an-line relay that senses pulses from the distributor primary and only engages the contacts when pulses are present. Those were used on VWs from the mid 70's for their fuel injected cars. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.