Jump to content

1950 Dodge b2 fluid drive


Go to solution Solved by Merle Coggins,

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 1950 B2 fluid truck, it is running I put it into gear (1st and Reverse) as I let the clutch out the truck starts to move then with clutch completely engaged it wont move.  Looking for advice on where to look.  Any guidance.

Posted

Not yet. 

The truck ran well then sat for 14 years.  I gave it to my daughter and her husband because they wanted to restore......and now I have it back.  

  • Solution
Posted

Have you checked the fluid level in the Fluid Drive? It would have to be quite low to act this way, but it may be something to check. You'll need to remove the toe boards and trans cover parts of the floor boards to access it. There'll be a round cover in the bell housing at around 1:00 or 2:00 position. The cover will pop off and expose access to the level/fill plug. You'll probably need to slowly crank the engine over until you can see the plug through the access hole. Then CAREFULLY remove the plug without dropping it. A magnetic socket is helpful here, or put a paper shop towel over the plug, then press the socked over that to make a tight fit as you remove the plug. This will help hold the plug into the socket for removal. 

Once you have the plug removed you should be able to see fluid. The fluid level should be right up to the level of that plug hole. Official Fluid Drive Fluid is obsolete, but I am using an AW32 tractor Hydraulic oil in mine and it's working just fine. 

 

The next thought is... if the level is low, why? Is the bellows seal leaking? Or did someone drain it at some point in time and didn't refill it? 

Posted

Thank you, I wasnt sure how to check the level, the motors and chiltons shop manuals I have from 1951 didnt provide instructions how to check.  I will check tomorrow.  is there a straight forward way to remove the fluid drive from the drive train?  Would I need a different clutch and transmission (have 3 speed currently)?

 

Thanks so much for the advice and instruction.

Posted

The transmissions used with FD have a longer input shaft and nose cone. Also, the bell housing is longer to accommodate everything. To switch to a conventional trans you’d need a bell housing and flywheel at minimum… besides the transmission, or shorter input shaft and nose cone

Posted

Thanks for all the info.  I filled the fluid drive and drives well...or did until new fuel pump stopped pumping.  I have a new fuel tank and such on the way so sould be close to driveable.  

I will keep fluid drive for now.  

 

Thanks so much

Posted

Your truck probly has an unsynchronized trans. The fluid drive should be easy to leave in 2nb or 3rd and just drive around using gas and brake pedals. 

Posted
On 8/19/2024 at 12:56 PM, greg g said:

Your truck probly has an unsynchronized trans. The fluid drive should be easy to leave in 2nb or 3rd and just drive around using gas and brake pedals. 

 

I do that when I'm driving around town with 25 - 35 MPH speed zones. I'll just leave it in 3rd and use brake/gas. If I need to start out on an incline I'll drop down to 2nd, but otherwise 3rd works fine. Once I get out of town where I'll be going over 35 I'll then double clutch and shift up to 4th. 

Posted

I was thinking the B2 three speeds were all synchronized. I know mine is. 

Posted
On 8/22/2024 at 2:48 PM, David A. said:

I was thinking the B2 three speeds were all synchronized. I know mine is. 

 

3 speeds are synchronized. 4 speeds didn't get syncros until '51 with the B3 series. 

Posted
On 8/22/2024 at 10:39 AM, Dodge bro said:

It is unsynchronized and love the double clutch.  I have left it in second and driving it around.

 

 

How much oil did you have to add/how low was it? 

Posted

I added a gallon.  I cant find any leaks.  I degreased the area and have fresh paper under the vehicle.  Nothing to this point.   

 

Posted

That's quite a lot for not having any leaks. I couldn't find a spec for the fluid capacity. I suspect that someone drained it, at one point during some 'maintenance' to get it running, and never refilled it. 

It might not hurt to recheck the level again. I recall that it took a while to get mine full. It would get up to the plug level, then after a while it would settle and burp and I could add a little more. I had drained mine during the engine overhaul process and refilled it before reinstalling the engine back into the chassis. 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use