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HCD
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I recently purchased a 1948 Chrysler New Yorker that was supposed to have been in running and driving condition, but the electrical was disconnected for its fluid drive. Most of the guys who had experience with fluid drives are either dead or retired, or both. I'm rebuilding carb and fuel pump and hope to have it at least running better after I install them. can you drive this fluid drive in 2nd and 3rd driving speeds without having the electrical connected? I know it wont shift as designed and probably will not have kickdown working. Defintitely, more of a project that I wanted to get involved in. Most shops I have worked with dont like or know how to work on pre 55 cars.

48 chrysler.jpg

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This is the place.  Someone will direct you to the Imperial site, where there is a wealth of info on the semi-automatic. 

I';ll check my shop manual to see what part the electrical circuits play in the shifting, and what gears it is in at the two ranges, 

Stay tuned.  

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It looks like the electrical circuit allows the transmission to be in first or third gear, depending on where the lever is (Up for Power, where 2nd gear would be, or down for Drive, where third gear would be).  Then the upshifting occurs when the gas pedal is eased back, or at speeds of 7 mph  or so for the 1-2 shift, and 12-14 mph for the 3-4 shift. 

 

You can start in Power (2nd gear), and shift, using the clutch, to Drive (Fourth gear)  Or make a stately start in 4th gear.  (Early Dodges with the 3-speed transmission and Fluid Drive would often start and drive all day in 3rd.(  (The latest term for starting off with the car in an upper gear is, thanks of the Forum, "accumulating momentum".

 

In addition to the instruction manuals on the Imperial Club site, you should get the Shop Manual, which has an extensive explanation of the M5 transmission, with wiring diagrams.  To work right, the transmission needs a Transmission Kickdown Relay, and a carburetor with dashpot and kickdown switch. 

 

"Good luck. We're all counting on you."

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thanks for the reply. Ive got both shop manual and the one for trans. this should be either a M5 or M6 trans. Im thinking the guys before me didnt know how or want to connect electrical from trans to carb and Im not thrilled doing myself either. Hopefully its still driveable in second and 3rd gears as it is. Ive also got a good wiring diagram just not something i like doing myself in my driveway, esp with the tests manuals want you to do

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oldcarbrochures.com has a good explanation on how it works. 

 

I just went through all this with my Saratoga that had all the wires chewed off. The transmission has a hydraulic component that shifts the transmission into the high gears in either range. It uses an electric solenoid to turn the hydraulic portion off allowing a spring to shift gears into the low gear in either range. When you turn the key on do you hear a solenoid click? If not, see if you are getting current though the relay. The Sol. tab on the relay should be hot when the Key is turned on. Mine had corrosion on the bottom of the fuse socket that caused all the trouble. 

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They may seem daunting but they really aren't that complicated. I would pretty much ignore low range; you really don't need it. I seem to recall that a "worst-case scenario" might be that it won't downshift back down into 3rd from 4th until you come to an almost complete (or maybe complete) stop. And that's not really that big a deal, at least not temporarily. I suspect, thanks to Fluid Drive, you could totally eliminate the transmission and just have direct drive and do okay...until you had to back up!

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HCD,

    Your '48 New Yorker Business Coupe is a very neat and rare car!

     Get ALL the electrical straightened out, and in particular the transmission. There are guys on this site, who can guide you through the hurdles.

Walt

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Thanks for the replies. I removed the access panel on floorpan to check out what was what on the solonoid, governor and interrupter. thankfully all were there with updated wires connected. I was actually shocked and relieved. Now just have to trace wires to relay and then to carb. I hope I dont have to replace the relay.

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Someone re- wired the trans wiring.

Pull the fuse on the relay...drive it. It should instantly upshift into high upon release of the gas pedal.

If it does that at least the M5 trans works Hydraulically and mechanically.

Then on to thebcontrols and wiring.

You need to get the factory shop manual to own and service this car.

Study carefully how this M5 "Hydraulically Operated" transmission operates.

Make sure it...the trans is filled properly with 10W oil too. It won't shift if low.

That's a very low production top line Chrysler 3 passenger cpe. About 600 made in three years 1946-48.

 

 

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  • 2 months later...

Ive got my 48 Chrysler New Yorker L8 running great after some replaced electronics. And is driving in high gear fine. Someone had posted pics of the 2 wires running from relay to carb itself on this site but cant find it. I have the shop manual but it doesnt have clear wiring diagrams for relay to carb. Anyone out there have them? Thanks

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