Errr, shure would like some help on this clutch problem

[Sniper]

When I converted my 87 Diplomat from automatic to 4 speed I ran a Sachs clutch.  No issues, smooth engagement, less pedal effort.  But it was a pass car, not a truck

[Los_Control]

Thanks for the tip @nonstop ..... Either way I already ordered the Luks. It is packaged with a label waiting for fedx to pick it up.

 

While I did mention the truck was built for towing .... I do no towing with it & it gets driven like a daily driver grocery getter.

I did think about getting the heavy duty Luks clutch for towing .... I chose the standard instead.

 

The truck is not a Silverado, it is a heavy duty 1/2 ton Cheyenne.  It has bigger wheel bearings, larger brakes, over load springs, class 3 hitch, rubber floor mat, no carpet, manual roll up windows, manual transmission ..... It was built from the factory to be a work truck ..... And it has over 400K miles on the clock.  A heavy duty clutch would really be a more fitting clutch for it. .... Hoping the standard clutch will be softer & should work just fine hauling groceries.

 

Only thing left to order is exhaust doughnuts .... they have several different sizes available but unclear on measuring. Just get them local to match what I have.

 

Then I'm unsure about the clutch fork & pivot ball .... not looked at them yet til I pressure wash it .... If there is any wear I will replace them.

Today is mowing the lawn & BBQ day.

 

There is a old man down the road, late 70's early 80's .... He drives a perfect example of a chebby truck this year .... He keeps it waxed & polished ... He drives it with a smile on his face.

Someday I want to be just like him .... While driving my 1949 pilothouse, I want to put this old chebby back exactly like it was when it rolled out of the dealership.

Hoping to be still driving it 20 years from now.

 

 

 

 

[Los_Control]

Well it is Saturday afternoon 1:30 .... kicking back in my shorts enjoying a cold beer on a hot day ...... FedX has the audacity to show up early.

 

Everything matches perfectly for fitment .... the throw out bearing weird's me out ..... The bearing is metal, the base that rides on the fork is plastic?

I'm putting it in but I dunno just seems weird to me.

Since it is a dull black, I wonder if it could be a carbon fiber? .... I know of Race cars .... Alex Taylor running a carbon fiber drive line in their 4k HP nitro street/strip car.

Plastic has come a long ways .... just weird to see it on a throw out bearing.

 

I'm guessing Monday I will want to test drive ...... just depends how bad the trans fights me stabbing it ..... then welding my exhaust back together I butchered to get it apart.

Time will tell.

 

[Los_Control]

Your Amazon.com order of "Slippery Pete Fluid Pump...".

That's right fellas I have me a peter pump on the way ..... ???

Is a pump that fits on quart size bottles to pump fluid into transmissions  .... will arrive in the mail tomorrow afternoon.

 

I worked on the tuck 6.5 hours last night .... 1 hour I was ready to install the transmission ..... over 5 hour I worked on installing that transmission ... on & off the jack 3 times to reset. I was so close but not good enough ..... I slept on it & had it installed within 20 min this morning. ...... Oh what a feeling!

 

So now I'm just cleaning up & getting organized, everything bolts back together easily .... except for some welding in the morning.

 

So now I'm taking the time to re-pack adjust the front wheel bearings .... rotate the tires, change the fluid in the rear end, engine while doing the transmission oil.

I could probably have it on the road today if needed ..... since I'm anxiously awaiting the arrival of my peter pump .... will just stay busy til it arrives .... anxious to try it out    ? 

[Los_Control]

Life is fun     

In the photo the clutch line is lying on top of the transmission & the strap is holding it tight to the transmission. I damaged it when I lowered the transmission down.

I found the issue too late, I hoped there was enough slack in it so would not damage it ...... Sometimes we win, sometimes we lose.

 

So I got it all back together & everything seems good. No strange noises, was able to shift it through a few gears .... pedal soft & needs bled.

I bleed & build pressure now it leaks. ..... I can not see where it is leaking .... it is all wet around the bottom of the master cylinder so it is up high.

I tried to take the line loose so I can inspect it. ..... It was installed at the factory & it is so  tight, I'm afraid will damage the mc trying to remove it.

I will have to remove the whole assembly from the truck & work on it on the bench ........ Not a big job. 4 bolts & 1 cotter key & I can remove the whole thing.

 

My small work area is so tore up after completing the clutch swap .... I cant find my needle nose pliers to pull the cotter key.

Time to slow down, grab a cool beverage clean & put away tools, haul out shipping boxes to the trash .... run the pressure washer for a minute.

Maybe do some yoga for a minute ....

 

No victory lap yet for me .... could be a very easy thing to fix .... I have extra line correct size leftover from doing brakes on the 49 .... or maybe I order a complete new sealed system mc/slave/line pre-filled no bleeding required.  <---- Wife choice. Wait a few days for it to arrive & $150 ..... Or repair the line $0

 

 

 

[Los_Control]

Well the wife was right again this time, she suggested to just order the kit from RA & be done with it. I wanted to see if I could repair it by just replacing the line.

I quickly found out the line is metric .... my extra replacement line is S.A.E. ..... So I walked down to the local parts store in 108F and asked if they could get just the line.

They wanted $110 for just the line, I would get it in the morning.

Rock Auto sells the complete system pre filled no bleeding required .... just bolt it into place for $115 .... same price as just the line by itself.

 

I could have bought just the line from RA for $40, if I have to wait a few days for delivery .... I'm buying the complete new system ..... suppose to be here tomorrow.

I will have a spare MC/slave cylinder boxed up sitting on a shelf for emergencies.

 

Note to self, double & triple check straps before lowering transmission.     At least I have time to take care of some other needed maintenance chores while waiting.

 

[Los_Control]

Wow 18 days to replace a clutch .... ??? .... It is nice to be retired.

 

I'm still not finished. The MC/slave kit I bought is Sachs ..... It just fits so poorly I have been messing with it for a couple hours & it still is not right.

Here is a photo of my old MC for reference.

 

 

On the new MC I had to take a carbide burr & hog out the mounting holes so it would slide on to the studs in the firewall.

Now there is the center barrel that slides through the reinforced firewall .... The Sachs is just to big ...... messing with it for 2 hours, I have it really close.

The bottom is tight but can run a fingernail through the top ..... just not sitting flat against the firewall ...... I can drive it like this, but eventually will break the ears off the MC because it is not securely mounted flat against the firewall ......  I will take it for a quick run to the store tomorrow.

 

Then I will spend another couple hours massaging the barrel on the MC so it will sit proper & flat ...... Sigh, if they only sold us parts that fit.

[Dave72dt]

Out of curiosity, what's the build date on your truck.   I noticed a difference in part numbers of clutch masters based on build dates.  Build date may be on the door tag or it's on the tag in the glove box.   The one in the glove box is your build code for your truck. GM did a variety of things with brake packages, suspension, steering and those codes will help a parts counter person get the right parts for you.

[Los_Control]

Dave you are probably correct ..... I can not find the build date .... bunch of numbers in the glove box that look like a serial or vin # .... no idea how to read them.

 

While I said yesterday there was a insert that reinforced the firewall ..... There is a 3/16" u shaped bracket behind the firewall .... the insert means nothing.

I was able to remove the insert & now the MC sits flat & it is fine ..... I just did not realize last night it was removable.

Because the clutch worked great last night,

 

Last night I started it a few times just to run it through the gears while on jack stands .... Told the wife I would drive it to the grocery store today. .... Make a shopping list.

 

Today I have the clutch issue completely behind me ....  It goes through all the gears perfect .... the MC sits flat & perfect ..... Clutch is done.

 

I'm ready for my test drive, all cleaned up & going to town. ..... It won't start.

It will not crank if you do not use the clutch .... safety switch. It is acting as if the safety switch is not hooked up .... battery shows 13.8 volts.

 

19 days in & the clutch is finished  ..... now I have a electrical issue. ..... OMFG, seriously?

I just need a break today then will put  my electricians hat on tomorrow.  Somewhere I have a loose connection ... can be under the dash, on the transmission or anywhere in between ...    Sigh!

[Sniper]

That is one thing I like about my 51. There is no clutch safety switch or anything like that it lets me be just as stupid as I want to be. Lol

[Los_Control]

Been out driving it, last night then again today went grocery shopping then went for a drive to fill it up & get gas for the lawnmower .... took the long way.

Really pleased with how the clutch turned out. It does shift better, there was some throw out or pilot shaft bushing noise ... gone now.

I still need to weld up the exhaust, just wanting to be sure it is fixed before I do that.

 

I suck at troubleshooting electrical issues.

I unplugged the safety switch then inserted a wire to connect them together .... should bypass the switch. Made no difference.

I do not know how the switch works though ... normally open or normally closed. ...... 50/50 chance my test was incorrect.

 

I pulled the starter & tested it on the floor, it's fine. .... I installed it a couple years ago along with the battery cable & did some repair on the trigger wire ....they are fine.

 

I also replaced the ignition switch when I bought the truck. You did not need a key to start it or could not lock the ignition .... so that's also new.

 

What I did was install another trigger wire to the solenoid runs to a push button in the cab .... bypass all the safety.

I have a new safety switch ordered, only $5, if not that then I would guess ignition switch next & replace it again.

I will eventually get it fixed correctly, at least I can drive it for now .... tough being without wheels to drive.

 

 

I wrote this then got busy on the phone never hit send .... then I ordered the clutch switch while I was thinking about it ..... realize the switch is under the dash & not on the transmission at all ..... Was probably the speedometer I was playing with yesterday  ? ...... I also ordered a repair manual for the truck when I ordered the clutch .... will be here tomorrow ....  might get some insight from that also.