1938 Dodge Sedan Rear Differential

[DC_Maidens]

Hello.

 

Does anyone know how strong the factory rear differential is on a 1938 Dodge Sedan?

 

I am looking at doing an engine swap and don't want to destroy it. I am currently looking at swapping it with a 1980 Camaro differential; how does the old one compare to this one?

I know the length (width??) is a bit longer but I will work with that.

 

 

Thanks.

[Doug&Deb]

Are you swapping in a late model engine and trans? If so a modern differential is a good idea along with upgrading the brakes. I’ve not heard of that particular differential being used but it depends on your fabrication skills. 

[Sniper]

I knew an old timer that used to race them with a Hemi in front, 50's Hemi not the elephant.  They had a tendency to shear the key where the flange and ale shaft meet.  The solution was to add another key, 180 degrees out from the original key.

 

But as soon as better rears ends became available in the bone yards they swapped those in.

[Los_Control]

I'm only guessing you are going with the 1980 chebby because you already have it & is free. .... You are not searching to purchase it.

 

Wheeel son, sometimes free is not cheap. ...... spits out a chaw of tobaccy.

 

23 minutes ago, DC_Maidens said:

I am looking at doing an engine swap and don't want to destroy it. I am currently looking at swapping it with a 1980 Camaro differential

Is it possible you already have a chebby clip on the front using chebby wheel bolt pattern? .... Then the chebby rear end makes sense.

 

First thing is what engine are you planning to use .... what hp?

Why would you want the chebby wheel bolt pattern?

Is it a 10 bolt or a 12 bolt .... A posi or limited slip?

What is the width of it? ..... When did the GM's down size again .... Is a 1980 narrower then a 1978?

Just so many questions need answers to give a honest answer your question.

 

From the Ford foxbody forum.

I was just wondering how much HP/TQ can my rear end handle all I did was put 3.73 gears and rebuilt the stock posi(new clutches) so far it handled 450TQ launching @6,000 cuttingt 1.69 60ft on ET streets but now Im putting down about 520QT so I dont know if the rear end is gonna hold up? any input will be greatly apreciated thanks..

 

 

A Ford 8.8 is a strong rear end, a Ford Explorer from a wrecking yard is cheap, It is the correct width, it has the correct wheel bolt pattern. It has many options in rear gear ratio, you can choose between drum or disk rear brake.

 

A 8.8 would be a far cheaper option then a chebby .... unless you need the cheby wheel bolt pattern.

[DC_Maidens]

20 hours ago, Los_Control said:

I'm only guessing you are going with the 1980 chebby because you already have it & is free. .... You are not searching to purchase it.

 

Wheeel son, sometimes free is not cheap. ...... spits out a chaw of tobaccy.

 

Is it possible you already have a chebby clip on the front using chebby wheel bolt pattern? .... Then the chebby rear end makes sense.

 

First thing is what engine are you planning to use .... what hp?

Why would you want the chebby wheel bolt pattern?

Is it a 10 bolt or a 12 bolt .... A posi or limited slip?

What is the width of it? ..... When did the GM's down size again .... Is a 1980 narrower then a 1978?

Just so many questions need answers to give a honest answer your question.

 

From the Ford foxbody forum.

I was just wondering how much HP/TQ can my rear end handle all I did was put 3.73 gears and rebuilt the stock posi(new clutches) so far it handled 450TQ launching @6,000 cuttingt 1.69 60ft on ET streets but now Im putting down about 520QT so I dont know if the rear end is gonna hold up? any input will be greatly apreciated thanks..

 

 

A Ford 8.8 is a strong rear end, a Ford Explorer from a wrecking yard is cheap, It is the correct width, it has the correct wheel bolt pattern. It has many options in rear gear ratio, you can choose between drum or disk rear brake.

 

A 8.8 would be a far cheaper option then a chebby .... unless you need the cheby wheel bolt pattern.

Great reply. It is a freebie. I was unaware that the Explorer diff was a perfect fit. I'm going to ditch the Camaro and go with that. Thank you.

 

Also thanks to everyone else. All valid points. Much appreciated 

Edited May 16, 2023 by DC_Maidens

[Los_Control]

Jeep Cherokee also .... I understand you will need to remove the spring perches & weld new ones on in correct location.

Tractor supply sells spring perches for building trailers, any trailer supply should have them or Hot Rod shops? ..... They are not a bolt in replacement.

Some welding required, then deal with the drive line.

 

If possible, try and grab all the E-brake cables & brackets from the donor vehicle.

If you have everything, you can adapt it to fit your vehicle, modify the end to fit your E-brake handle. .... Your vehicle the E-brake is on the transmission, so you wont have one now.

Just thinking if you get the rear end from pick a part or some place, grabbing all you can for the e-brake will save headache & $$ down the road.

[DC_Maidens]

On 5/16/2023 at 12:57 PM, Los_Control said:

Jeep Cherokee also .... I understand you will need to remove the spring perches & weld new ones on in correct location.

Tractor supply sells spring perches for building trailers, any trailer supply should have them or Hot Rod shops? ..... They are not a bolt in replacement.

Some welding required, then deal with the drive line.

 

If possible, try and grab all the E-brake cables & brackets from the donor vehicle.

If you have everything, you can adapt it to fit your vehicle, modify the end to fit your E-brake handle. .... Your vehicle the E-brake is on the transmission, so you wont have one now.

Just thinking if you get the rear end from pick a part or some place, grabbing all you can for the e-brake will save headache & $$ down the road.

Great advice. Thanks