Going down the babbitt hole

[Hickory]

Valves and seats look great.

[Hickory]

Exhaust manifold all painted.

[Hickory]

So yesterday I disassembled the oil pump, checked the tolerance, flat sanded the cover and body. Checked the bushings and painted.

[Hickory]

I also disassembled the distributor checked everything over. Tighten the rivits and ordered some new springs and bushings for timing advance. Sanded and painted.

[Hickory]

Over the weekend I disassembled the tranny and checked it over. Steam cleaned made some gaskets and painted it.

[Hickory]

And today at lunch time I started to attach the crank counter weights.

[Hickory]

Once they are torqued down then I have to weld the heads of the bolts.

[Hickory]

This morning I disassembled the generator, sanded and cleaned. Made a couple repairs to bare wires. I ordered new brushes for it and replaced the Bendix with a new one. I am going through all of the components and not just doing a Rust-Oleum restoration. 

[Hickory]

I also turned the commutator on the lathe and then back cut the insulator between the bars

[Hickory]

Sorry I didn't do the Bendix on the generator, I have that on my starter which is being disassembled right now.

[Hickory]

I can't wait to get to the front seal portion, I don't know what way the cork will go in...lol

[Hickory]

So to feed my curiosity I put my head on the block without the head gasket and raised the valves till contact. I realize the head gasket has a thickness value also but I'm not going to get crazy. The difference between closed valves and open valves is .575 of an inch. Now my camshaft has an amazing .308 lift. That gives me over a quarter (.250) of an inch clearance without head gasket.  I'm trying to figure out how much to shave my head.  I'm going to measure the thickness before hitting water passages at lunch. I don't see why I couldn't remove at least .080 like I did on my 49 Chrysler royal with a 251 in it. Tell me your thoughts.

[Hickory]

Water is no where near the head surface and I'm contemplating on removing .100 of an inch to raise that horrible 5.2-1 compression ratio. What's your thoughts.

[andyd]

Hickory...I must admit I hadn't checked your thread till now but just did and am impressed and thankful that we get to see this as even tho' I'll never play with a babbitt bearing engine I have enjoyed your posts and more importantly have learnt things and for that I thank you........as for how much to grind the head, for me I'd be inclined to err on the side of caution as its hard to put back what you remove.......lol.........I have seen tables that show what compression increase removal of set amounts on later mopar engines results in......maybe try & find that and use it as a comparision to what you have...........either way as mentioned I've learnt things........those bolt on counterweights are a real eye opener...........regards & thanks from Oztralia.......andyd.    

[Hickory]

Thank you Andyd that means allot coming from you. I will keep this post going till start up. Believe it or not the plan is to drive to the Syracuse Nationals this year (July 13-16). I've got 2 weeks to finish my plan before my bearings are mailed back to me.  Final assembly will be completed by my wife with my instructions. She hates standing besides me and head about everything I have done to the car myself. She wants to be able say she has built a flathead. Good for her, I love it.

[Hickory]

For yesterday and today's progress. Replaced the starter Bendix and brushes. Cleaned and painted.

[Hickory]

As if I'm not busy enough I also am sewing up my own seats and headliner. I know it's not babbitt related but here is some pictures.

[D35 Torpedo]

It's looking good. I say Mill the snot out of it. If you're concerned, cc the head. Milling will have a greater effect on a smaller displacement engine as far as thickness removed to compression boost ratio. Edit I'm second guessing that logic. Someone chime in.

Edited April 21, 2023 by D35 Torpedo

[Hickory]

This mornings progress, I've decided to port match my intake and exhaust to the block. So first are the measurements, much closer than I expected.

[Hickory]

Next was a trip to the Bridgeport.

[D35 Torpedo]

Port the runners in the block and chamfer(round) the side of the cylinder so air can flow out the valve and around the corner into the cylinder faster. Just stay above the top ring.

Edited April 21, 2023 by D35 Torpedo

[Hickory]

Starting the block.

[Hickory]

And the intake after a little sanding, I still want a swirl pattern so I'm not over sanding or polishing.

[Hickory]

Mr torpedo let me understand what you are saying about the piston wall or cylinder wall?  I'm doing the valve runners and a little on the valve stem boss. Explain the top ring portion better for me please.

[Sniper]

It's called relieving the block.  It adds combustion chamber volume while improving airflow, or that's the theory. 

 

Here's an example on a ford flathead