woodscavenger Posted November 5, 2007 Report Posted November 5, 2007 How hard is it to remove the cab? Can I find new mounting hardware/bushings? Do you remove the steering wheel and tip it out or do you remove the steering column? Which is easier? Quote
grey beard Posted November 5, 2007 Report Posted November 5, 2007 Mr. Wood, Unless you have some pretty dedicated lifting equipment, I'd suggest you remove the steering box and wheel as a unit before you tackle the cab. Here's how it works - the cqb is only held on by four bolts, once the nose is off, BUT the floor boards and steering box must come off as well as the wiring harness and/or instrument leads - temp and oil pressure - before the cab comes off. If you have the energy for the job it is without a question the right way to restore things. Lots of luck and let us know how things go. Quote
woodscavenger Posted November 5, 2007 Author Report Posted November 5, 2007 Well the truck came with no dash instruments or wiring so at least that is done!! How difficult is the steering box to take out? Are there any major alignment issues I need to be aware of before I yank it out? Quote
Merle Coggins Posted November 5, 2007 Report Posted November 5, 2007 I was able to lift my cab off with the steering column in place. However I was in a shop with an overhead hoist with plenty of lift height. And even with that I had to spin the cab around and jockey things around to get the steering wheel to clear through the openings in the floor. When I set it back on I will probably remove the steering wheel. Getting the steering box out shouldn't be too difficult. I think there are 3 bolts that hold it to the frame and the steering link attached to the pitman arm. If you can, leave the pitman arm attached to the steering box. This will be the only allignment point to worry about. If you have to remove the pitman arm, be sure to mark it's relationship to the shaft so it can go back on in the same position. Also, of the 4 cab mounts, the left front is different than the other 3. Quote
greg g Posted November 5, 2007 Report Posted November 5, 2007 I recently pulled the cab from my Studebaker, the Dodge can't be much different. There was a panel around the brake and clutch pedals, and around the steering column. I also removed the brake and clutch pedal pads. I then loosened the column clamp and pushed the column up into the cab and fastened it up and out of the way. Then the 4 bolts came out and the cab was loose. A friend came over from across the street and lifted the cab off the frame with his tractor mounted front end loader. I will shortly build a dolly on casters to put it on so I can work on it and so I can roll it in out and around the garage. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted November 5, 2007 Report Posted November 5, 2007 I will shortly build a dolly on casters to put it on so I can work on it and so I can roll it in out and around the garage. I set mine on two furnature dollies. I can roll it around where I need it. Plus I can lay it over on it's side and still use the dollies to keep it mobile. Quote
greg g Posted November 5, 2007 Report Posted November 5, 2007 I would like something a bit higher than the furnature dollies. Just so the lower more rusted areas are easier to get at without so much bending and stooping. Quote
Jim Shepard Posted November 5, 2007 Report Posted November 5, 2007 I removed mine with friend's forklift (a big one...). I took off the steering wheel, but left the column in place. It's a two-person operation because one has to finese the cab up over the pedals and steering column, as well as the gas tank inlet pipe. I'm not aware of anyone making the hardware. Fortunately, mine were in reasonably good shape and I re-used them. Be aware the front driver-side bolt setup is different than the other three. Quote
Young Ed Posted November 5, 2007 Report Posted November 5, 2007 Not quite sure what yours look like but I made new bolts for mine. Just matched the length. I believe I had to drill holes and then tap more threads to match up to the old ones. I did have to reuse the 3 springs from the old ones. Quote
Jim Shepard Posted November 5, 2007 Report Posted November 5, 2007 PH don't use springs. Are you referring to an older truck? Quote
Young Ed Posted November 5, 2007 Report Posted November 5, 2007 Right I have a 46. Looks like the fig 11 from Merle's post. Quote
Jim Shepard Posted November 6, 2007 Report Posted November 6, 2007 That's right. The manual shows a pre-PH cab, but the diagram showing the hardware is from a PH. As you can see, there are no springs. Here's a photo showing what mine looked like and how they go together. I took this photo before I saw the diagram in the manual. This is one of the three that are alike. As I said, the front driver side is different. The manual diagram shows the two different ones. The one on the left is the driver side bolt. 1 Quote
Merle Coggins Posted November 6, 2007 Report Posted November 6, 2007 If you read the caption under that picture you'll see that it references the Power Wagon, which I think still used a pre-Pilot House cab style. Quote
Young Ed Posted November 6, 2007 Report Posted November 6, 2007 Merle you are right. The powerwagon used an almost identical cab to my 46 for quite some time. Quote
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