MarcDeSoto Posted August 15, 2022 Author Report Posted August 15, 2022 I think I finally have the clutch linkage hooked up right. The Miller gauge C-705 lines up right. The clutch pedal comes back and doesn't stay down like before. Question: If I push the clutch pedal down and release it suddenly, it snaps back hard. I think that's normal as you are supposed to release the pedal slowly. Am I correct? Quote
MarcDeSoto Posted August 17, 2022 Author Report Posted August 17, 2022 I found out that lining up the C-705 gauge is easy. Just put the gauge on and turn the turnbuckle until it lines up! It's easy once you know how this linkage works. I only had to assemble and disassemble it about 15 times! 1 Quote
James_Douglas Posted August 25, 2022 Report Posted August 25, 2022 (edited) On 8/13/2022 at 2:28 PM, MarcDeSoto said: Keith, the clutch pedal rod is correctly put on the inside of the torque shaft. The pedal rods are slightly bent to fit better. But I noticed another problem I'm having. The Master Tech filmstrip says you must have 5/32" free play at the clutch fork. You check it by removing the pull back spring and jiggling the fork so that it has 5/32" free play at the fork rod, which produces 1" free play at the pedal. But when I disconnect the spring there is no free play at the fork. When I try to screw the fork rod nut back to make the fork rod shorter, it WON'T turn anymore, even though there is more thread there. I can't think of why the fork rod nut stops unless the rod has a messed up thread. BY THE WAY, 5/32" FREE-PLAY AT THE FORK IS JUST A HAIR MORE THAT 1/8". REMEMBER YOU HAVE TO DISCONNECT THE PULL BACK SPRING TO CHECK THE PEDAL FREE-PLAY! This is the classic case of the clutch forks being and incorrect height. Adjust the over center spring first. Then try to adjust the clutch rod. If you cannot get the clearance and it bottoms out then the clutch forks are too tall. If you end up with so much clearance that the rod is too shot (as is my case with the '49) then the clutch forks are too short. This is why I said that the actual clutch forks MUST be accurate. If it is not correct then one spends time chasing ghosts. I am glad you figured it out. That said, with everything new...the adjustment on the fork rod "should" fall into the middle of the threaded range IF the height on the clutch plate is correct... James Edited August 25, 2022 by James_Douglas 1 Quote
Sniper Posted August 25, 2022 Report Posted August 25, 2022 3 hours ago, James_Douglas said: This is the classic case of the clutch forks being and incorrect height. Adjust the over center spring first. Then try to adjust the clutch rod. If you cannot get the clearance and it bottoms out then the clutch forks are too tall. If you end up with so much clearance that the rod is too shot (as is my case with the '49) then the clutch forks are too short. This is why I said that the actual clutch forks MUST be accurate. If it is not correct then one spends time chasing ghosts. I am glad you figured it out. That said, with everything new...the adjustment on the fork rod "should" fall into the middle of the threaded range IF the height on the clutch plate is correct... James When you say clutch forks, do you mean the clutch levers on the pressure plate? Because it is my understanding that the clutch fork is what pushes on the release bearing sleeve and the bearing itself pushes on the three clutch levers. Quote
James_Douglas Posted August 26, 2022 Report Posted August 26, 2022 yes, I mean the levers on the clutch pressure plate... 1 Quote
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