1948 Chrysler New Yorker axle seals

[jjareckijr]

Help with axle seal replacement on a 1948 Chrysler New Yorker

 

[keithb7]

Do you have a shop manual?

Edited March 19, 2022 by keithb7

[RobertKB]

It would be nice if you explained what you need help with. Pulling rear axles? Sourcing parts? Inner or outer seals? Bearings?

 

Being a New Yorker you likely have a straight eight engine. If that is the case, many parts are not interchangeable with six cylinder 1946-48 Chryslers and I’m not talking just engines. New Yorkers are a different and unique beast. You need a shop manual and a parts book. 

Edited March 19, 2022 by RobertKB

[jjareckijr]

Yes, but it shows hehe axle removal with a special tool.

[keithb7]

On the 6 cylinder cars I have removed drum. Removed woodruff key. Replace drum loosely. Put nut on a few threads. Use loose drum as a slide hammer. Easily pull axle out. 

[keithb7]

 

Edited March 19, 2022 by keithb7

[jjareckijr]

I have a leak at the axle and intending on installing new inner and outer seals. A video seen shows yanking the rear axle out while the drum is attached in reverse position.  The videos did not state what vehicle and year was being worked on.  I have read the manually still needing guidance in attempting the axle removal and removing seals and its reinstall.  Looking at purchasing the seals and have seen different offerings. If a source can be provided and part numbers,I would appreciate any help.  

 

[Dodgeb4ya]

If you are going to remove the axle shafts and don't have the tooling Keith's way usually will pull the axle shafts right out.

Remember the eight cylinder car chassis parts are all unique...bigger and heavier than the smaller six cylinder cars.  

Also there are two choices for rear axle shaft inner and outer seals...be careful when ordering.

Usually there will be a part number on the seals...use those #'s..plus the inner/outer and width measurements when ordering.

Edited March 19, 2022 by Dodgeb4ya

[keithb7]

Upon reassembly you don’t push the axle, cone and cup all the way in. You put the shims in then tighten the brake backing plate. All gets sucked down to the depth you set with the various shim thickness. 

[jjareckijr]

Keithb7

 

Video makes it look simple . . I see the inner seal and its removal, will look for the outer seal.

[jjareckijr]

Thanks for your assistance . . Should I need further help . . I'll be back

[harmony]

I can't really offer any specific help because my Windsor is a 6.  However I can offer a piece of advice, that being, don't just buy seals from an auto parts store who say they will fit.  You should be able to get part numbers off the seals you're pulling out.  Hopefully they have been changed before and that they are Timken or SKF.  If the seal is stamped National, that's the same as Timken now days.  With those numbers  you should be able to get them from your local parts store.  Don't believe them if they say they have a cross reference number for a different company. Unless they are prepared to supply you with the actual ID, OD, and thickness. I also recommend getting the matching redi-sleeve (timken) or speedi-sleeve (SKF) for the seals as well. 

 

When you pull your axles keep the shims that are on the back side of the axle flange separate ( left side, right side)  But even at that don't assume that whoever did it last time had it right.  So research what your end play should be. Each shim should be stamped as to how thick it is.  It might be faint and hard to read so after cleaning them, take some steel wool to them to find the number if you have to, or use a lighted magnifier to help. 

 

Here's another issue you might run into and how to prevent it.  The seals are a little cheap these days and don't have much of a lip on the back side to hold the spring in place.  So when you are driving the inner ones into place, the springs may fall out.  Same might happen with the outer ones as well, but at least you will see it happen.  I got lucky when I put my first inner seal in and just happened to notice something shinny inside the axle about an inch or two past the seal, after I thought I had seated the seal properly and was about to carry on.  So you can either tape the spring in place using electrical tape, in about 4 places, or use some grease around that lip and the spring.  I used Lucus Red n Tacky.  Either way, once the seal is in place, I'd take something like a coat hanger or something similar, bent in a L shape and reach inside and make sure that the spring is seated up tight inside that tiny lip all the way around. If you have small fingers you can check that way too.

Edited March 19, 2022 by harmony