engine removal question..

[chucky07]

I spent 8 hours trying to lift engine out of car today....not disconnecting everything, i did that last night..but trying to lift out of car with hoist..

Ok....maybe i should have gone by the manual...(remove transmission) but I didn't...ok maybe I should have removed the pedals..but I didn't....

I can figure out how to remove the transmission..but would someone Please tell me how to remove pedals??? and is it necessary or am I lifting the engine out wrong???

I think because I have a fluid drive, the pedal arrangement is very different than a reg truck..and I cant find anything on how to remove them..

I think it's impossible to lift engine from truck without cutting out the firewall...Anyone else able to get it out that way?

thx

kevin

[Guest Dave Claussen]

Chuck, when I removed my motor, I took the tranny out first but I took the floorboard panels out first which gave me access to the bolts mounting the tranny to the motor. This step also clears the way to remove the pedals while they are still attached to the tranny. Removing the floorboards was no small task, many of the bolts were rusted so bad I had to grind them off with an angle grinder and then was able to get the floor panels out. Grinding the bolts means you'll have to replace them but you should be able to find them at most hardware/automotive parts stores. NOTE: I did not have a fluid drive so there would be some differences.

Once the tranny is out it's much easier to work on the pedals. Before you take the pedal assembly apart, take a couple of pictures with a digital camera if you have one, makes re-assembly a lot easier. Even with the fluid drive, I would think removing the tranny first would be the way to go. I don't think you can get the motor/tranny out as a single unit. Cutting the firewall shouldn't be something you would have to do to get the motor out. If you have access to a manual, that is what you should go by, in my opnion.

I could be wrong so if someone else has actually taken the motor and tranny out together(without cutting the firewall), please chime in.

[PatS....]

I have a 1949 Chrysler with Fluid Drive. My bellhousing and pedal configuration is different than a truck, but I too removed the front clip:

Then easily removed the engine and transmission as a unit. I was not about to be crawling on the floor under the car any more than I had to.

[chucky07]

Thanks for the help guys..I finally removed the clutch and brake pedal off a shaft on the side...lots of pieces and i didnt take a picture like u recommended hope I can figure out how to put it back..

You can see by the second picture..it's a lot easier to remove with no pedals..ahahah...at least I'm learning..ahahha

Tomorow Ill try to separate the bell housing..i've only read how to do it...should be fun with engine on stand....any pointers?

Then I can remove the carb..intake exhaust..starter..etc...and drop off at machine shop...You guys think i should put the rings ..bearings..oil pump in it or have machine shop do it>>>>?

thx for all your help

Kevin

[PatS....]

Kevin, have a look at the cheap dolly I made to hold the engine, cost $0 but made breaking up the engine pretty easy. You could deliver it to the machine shop on it too.

The scrap wood stand is on an old furniture dolly I have, you could bolt casters directly to the scrapwood stand...use good 6 inch swivel casters.

[chucky07]

thanks patS very good..I have some 2x4's out back and I'll build one tomorow.....Whats the best way for me to get the bell housing off? I removed 7 of the bolts and it didnt' come off..do i have to reach in and remove the clutch and fluid drive uniit and flywheel before the bell housing cover will come off?

thx ..

Kevin

[chucky07]

Chuck, when I removed my motor, I took the tranny out first but I took the floorboard panels out first which gave me access to the bolts mounting the tranny to the motor. This step also clears the way to remove the pedals while they are still attached to the tranny. Removing the floorboards was no small task, many of the bolts were rusted so bad I had to grind them off with an angle grinder and then was able to get the floor panels out. Grinding the bolts means you'll have to replace them but you should be able to find them at most hardware/automotive parts stores. NOTE: I did not have a fluid drive so there would be some differences.

Once the tranny is out it's much easier to work on the pedals. Before you take the pedal assembly apart, take a couple of pictures with a digital camera if you have one, makes re-assembly a lot easier. Even with the fluid drive, I would think removing the tranny first would be the way to go. I don't think you can get the motor/tranny out as a single unit. Cutting the firewall shouldn't be something you would have to do to get the motor out. If you have access to a manual, that is what you should go by, in my opnion.

I could be wrong so if someone else has actually taken the motor and tranny out together(without cutting the firewall), please chime in.

I was kidding about cutting out firewall ..gee..i can't even weld so I wouldnt do that....lol....I did finally get it out though..wish i would have taken the pictures like u advised...i feel dumb.. If I need help reassembling it I hope i can find a pic of it or one of you guys maybe have one you could loan me for a while..

Kevin

[PatS....]

Not too sure about the trucks, Kevin.

[PatS....]

I was kidding about cutting out firewall ..gee..i can't even weld so I wouldnt do that....lol....I did finally get it out though..wish i would have taken the pictures like u advised...i feel dumb.. If I need help reassembling it I hope i can find a pic of it or one of you guys maybe have one you could loan me for a while..

Kevin

A digital camera and a whack of heavy ziplock freezer bags are both vital to be able to put the thing back together properly...also if possible put the nuts and bolts back in the holes they came out of.

Take lots of pics and lots of notes to yourself and drawings. You will thank yourself later!!!!

[Merle Coggins]

Good to see that you figured it out. It wasn't too difficult, was it. When I pulled my engine I laid under it for a while studying the pedal linkage to figure out how it all came off. Once I figured it out, the hardest part was getting all the pins loose. (mine is Fluid Drive like yours)

As for having the machine shop do all the work... I guess that depends on your comfort level with building an engine. I had them bore the cylinders, replace the valve guides and seats, and mill the block deck and head. They also fitted new wrist pin bushings for me. Then I replaced the cam bearings and reassembled the engine myself. However, this isn't the first engine that I've built, so it's not a problem for me. I also have access to special tooling needed for things like the cam bearings.

Remember, the more you can do for yourself, the easier it'll be on your bank account.

Merle

[pflaming]

Question: Will a 1/2 ton Dodge truck fit on an same age Mopar chassis. Seems the '51 Mopar cars really drove nice. Also, will a 55 +/- engine and tranny fit in a truck. A high school friend had a "55 plymouth and it was a fast car.

PF

[Young Ed]

That's an interesting question. Shown for some ideas are a 46-48 plymouth chassis and a 47 dodge 1/2 ton truck chassis. Besides the car being a box frame the big difference seems to be the kickup over the axle. I would think you could overcome that with some creative bed flooring. Might end up with a more shallow bed. I have this crazy idea in the back of my head of making a pickup with a 48 plymouth front clip. Nothing has progressed beyond the idea though....

Interesting