Jump to content
Site Offline 11/25/24 starting 10:00 AM PST ×

'53 B-4TA-190 Fire Engine


E37Bruco

Recommended Posts

Brillman stuff is really good quality. No problem there I would think.

Anyway to check spark do like I said.

Pull coil lead out of distributore cap..

Anyway you can  firmly position the coil wire end 1/2" from any handy metal part on the top of the engine, head, coil base mount etc.

Make sure the vehicle is in nuetral ...

Turn the key on..

Have someone stomp on the starter and crank it over while you watch for a 1/2"  strong snapping blue spark.

If you see this happen the distributor and coil are doing their job.

I never have help so I just reach down to the starter lever and operate it with my hand and watch for that spark.

Bummer this problem judt came up on your big show day!?

 

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No water in the gas?

Just throwing that out there.

Had a job years ago withnester contamination.

Can cause your same problems.

I think it's going to be some silly little issue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i went back through this thread some and i cant find anything on fuel additives. What do you guys add to your tanks? I assumed since this is ethanol and lead-free it needs some top end lubricant. Im using Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant in each tank currently.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your engine has Silicon-Chromium Steel  valves and valve seats. Exhaust valves are sodium filled..exhaust seats are stellite faced too.

Plus the block is "Nickel-Chrome."

No need for valve seat or valve additives.

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great photo's BTW!?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Typical good 6V coil tesistance readings are

***prmary 1.0-1.5 ohms

*** secondary 5000- 8000 ohms.

You have no reading on the high voltage side secondary coil...

Double check it..

If still the same open circuit....Bad coil I'd say

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The double roller Ross steerin box with the sector shaft coming out the side with the pitman arm as shown would not be too hard as long as you have a good and big pitman arm puller.

For and aft type steering linkage.

The other steering box is a gemmer style with the pitmam arm hanging hanging at the botton of the angled down sector shaft .

A messy job on that style.

Shown is the Ross easier style to replace the box seal.20230713_172710_mxe7paHH59.jpeg.fe5f3100a9c67f48acac77aa38332def.jpeg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well that's kinda a bummer...oh well another bruco bring er back challenge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes remove the big nut and washer...mark position of pitman arm to sector shaft...use a large  pitman arm puller or suitable puller to remove the pitman arm and steering shaft link from steering gear.

Carefully remove the old seal...don't damage the sealing surfaces.

Bad part is the gear oil will ooze out making it messy.

Carefully install a new seal.

Re-assemble arm and link shaft to steering gear.

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

So...

 

-new coil on

-Verified spark to distributor 

-Verified points gap is .020

-No distributor shaft play

-Checked ohms on all spark plugs they're good

-weights and springs look good

-plugs aren't fowled

 

 

pulled the plate in the distributor and saw a bump on the fixed side of the points. Sanded it, regapped, fired up great. Shut it down so I can go move everything and fix the park job. Wouldnt fire back up. Bad points maybe? 

 

 

20230726_133821.jpg

20230726_133831.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

could be, cant recall if you replaced the condenser but I had a boat motor that would fire up and run, but on shut down the heat soak would make the condenser not want to work again until cooled back off.  points are really just breaking a circuit so cleaned up dont typically fail but depending on how much they are and how hard to get, Id throw in new point and condenser.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's great!

I would buy extra "Good" ignition parts just to have.

Where you find them these days is a challenge though as you now know.

I prefer clean looking ,in original packaging, big name NOS parts.

Factory Autolite, Sorensen etc ignition parts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use