Vibration damper and other questions.

[Bryan]

If I feel well enough going to try working on it again.  But had a question about the vibration damper..the shop manual just says use tool C-355 to pull it. No pictures, no other instructions, etc. What worries me is it has a bunch of small bolts around the rim. Do these come off, any special problems anyone knows about?  See people talking about a 1 13/16 socket.   Also, looking at pics of my engine, carbon buildup seems excessive. Comments?   Lastly, any suggestions on bolts to use for a 2000 lb harbor freight motor stand to connect 218/230 L6 flathead? Length, thread pitch, diameter and washers?  

[kencombs]

The big nut in the end has to come out. It looks like you have a two piece hub and pulley.  Those small bolts separate the pieces.   Most steering wheel pullers will work for that.   Two long bolts through the puller into the threaded hub bolts

 

I like to put a bolt into the hole in the end of the crank for the puller to push on.  doesn't have to fit, just fill the hole.

 

And, I'd like to see a pic of the pulleys from the side.  It looks like a two groove setup?  I've been looking, causally, for one of those but have never seen one around here.

Edited December 1, 2021 by kencombs

[Bryan]

Just one pulley...

[Bryan]

On mine the 1 13/16 inch hex head is beat all to c--p on one side. Looks like someone took a chisel and tried to tap it around.  This big nut actually has to screw out before I can pull the damper?

[Art Bailey]

Watching this with interest--- pretty sure I have to send mine off for rebuild, somehow it's sitting on there crooked. I've read Mopar used two different sized nuts on the crankshaft, so if you're like me and don't have huge honkin' sockets laying around and have to buy one, measure first. 

Edited December 2, 2021 by ratbailey

[Dodgeb4ya]

You can remove the damper and pulley without removing the large crank bolt.

I have done it many times.

The shown hub is ready to be pushed onto the crank with a special installation bolt that is sticking out.  Lower pic shows the damper and pulley diameter is larger than the crank bolt and washer.

Edited December 2, 2021 by Dodgeb4ya

[Bryan]

1 hour ago, ratbailey said:

Watching this with interest--- pretty sure I have to send mine off for rebuild, somehow it's sitting on there crooked. I've read Mopar used two different sized nuts on the crankshaft, so if you're like me and don't have huge honkin' sockets laying around and have to buy one, measure first. 

I measured it, was 1 13/16"...just ordered a socket a 1/2 hour ago.

[Art Bailey]

1 hour ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

You can remove the damper and pulley without removing the large crank bolt.

I have done it many times.

The shown hub is ready to be pushed onto the crank with a special installation bolt that is sticking out.  Lower pic shows the damper and pulley diameter is larger than the crank bolt and washer.

Huh...so, the balancer is held on with the six bolts, not the crankshaft nut? 

[Dodgeb4ya]

58 minutes ago, ratbailey said:

Huh...so, the balancer is held on with the six bolts, not the crankshaft nut? 

That's right...

[Bryan]

And looking at mine, and a picture of another post some years back, it seems like these dampers just sandwich a piece of rubber between two surfaces. People cut gaskets for other items. What prevents me from buying a specific thickness rubber stock on Amazon and making a sandwich?  Sure beats paying $100.  Amazon.com: NABOWAN Solid Rubber Sheets,Strips,Rolls 1/4" (.250") Thick x 12" Wide x 12" Long Neoprene Rubber Mat : Industrial & Scientific   

[Bryan]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v154/mikemaker/My car crap/PICT1904.jpg

 

 

[Dodgeb4ya]

7 minutes ago, Bryan said:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v154/mikemaker/My car crap/PICT1904.jpg

 

 

Ohhh...that's ugly! I've never seen one come apart on a flathead...other cars and trucks many!

[kencombs]

You can remove all the parts but the hub without removing the center bolt.  But, as I understand it you are planning to rebuild the engine.  The hub has to come off to get the timing cover off.

 

That rubber, 'sandwich', is vulcanized together.  Not likely to be able to repair that at home.

[Loren]

Two things

The dampers with a rubber sandwich can be rebuilt. Don’t toss it.

when you are removing something that has a keyed shaft, do not pry at 90 degrees to the key. Pry at 180 degrees or at the key otherwise it will never come off even if it is a fairly loose fit.

[Dodgeb4ya]

That damper (Crankshaft Impulse nuetralizer)is the same part for several years among Dodge, DeSoto and Chrysler cars from 1946-52.

 

[Art Bailey]

Sorry to glom onto your post, Bryan. Thanks Loren, Bryan, and Dodgeb4ya for pics and important info that was not in any of my repair lit, much appreciated. I'll bet the reason mine is crooked is that during engine "rebuild", some jackalope pried at 90 deg., ripped the rubber, then gave up. 

 

Here's where I'm planning to send my balancer for rebuild: http://www.hbrepair.com/

There's also these guys: https://www.damperdoctor.com/

 

No first hand experience with either.

 

-Art

 

 

[Bryan]

3 minutes ago, ratbailey said:

Sorry to glom onto your post, Bryan.

 

-Art

 

 

You can pay penance by telling me what bolts/washers make a harbor freight 2000 lb motor stand work on a 230 L6. ?

[Bryan]

Someone didn't have the big socket back then...Also on mine at least the rubber edge seems okay.

[Kilgore47]

A good resource for a socket you need for a one time use is a pawn shop.  You could pick it up for a dollar or two for that size.  And no shipping.  

[Dartgame]

I had my damper rebuilt by HB, less expensive than Damper Dr. Good service and fast turnaround. Nice Guy running the business is retired and does rebuilds as his time permits.