kencombs Posted May 18, 2021 Report Posted May 18, 2021 (edited) I've finally started working on my '56 pickup a little again. It hasn't been started for a long time. First issue was the starter switch stuck closed when I hit the starter pedal. Got that freed up and no spark. Got out the meter and started checking. Full battery voltage to the coil + post. No resistor. This thing has had the wiring hacked by the PO. Replaced the 12 generator with an alternator, externally regulated with an electronic regulator on the firewall. Several wire spliced and extended but no trace of an old resistor or mounting hole anywhere. So, looked for a diagram on line and found 3 different ones. All of them show the resistor between the coil - post and the distributor. I thought that must be an error, but after considering it I don't think it makes any difference if it is before or after the coil. It will control the current in either location I guess. The coil mount/wire organizer on it has the mount broken off so I got to wondering if maybe the resistor was mounted there?. Neither diagram showed a bypass wire for used while cranking either. I've never looked at a stomp starter truck with that feature to see how it was wired. I'm guessing just a wire from the starter switch, starter side, directly to the coil. anybody have any first hand knowledge of these issues. The no start issue is most likely dirty points but I'm just going to order new points, cap and rotor. I'll be rewiring it anyway, but I would like to get it running to more easily move it around while doing body and bed work. Edited title to specify the year. I'm really interested to find out if anyone has seen one of these in stock configuration. Was the resistor really on the distributor side of the coil? Was there a bypass for 12v start? If it had a resistor then surely there was a way to up the voltage during start, unless they used a temperature variable resistor. I'll check the coil that's on there now to see if it is intended to be used with a resistor, but it is unlikely to be the original anyway. As stated I'll be rewiring anyway, with lots of changes. I'm just curious to find out if the diagrams I found are correct. The final system will be a Bendix type starter, later ignition switch (probably a GM in a tilt column), slant six electronic guts in original distributor used to trigger a GM HEI module and a good coil of some flavor. Edited May 19, 2021 by kencombs Quote
Merle Coggins Posted May 18, 2021 Report Posted May 18, 2021 If the resistor is supposed to be on the points side of the coil then there is no way to give it a 12v boost during cranking. And, as you surmise, there would be no 12v ‘start’ signal available anyway with a stomp starter. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 19, 2021 Report Posted May 19, 2021 resistor depend on the coil use...if you use an external resistor coil, for general application your ballast should be the same ohm rating as the coil....so if a 1.5 ohm coil, use a 1.5 ohm resistor. Now if your coil measures closer to 3.0-3.3 ohms, this coil is internal resistor style and need no other resistor will be used. Personally the external is in my opinion the better setup....yes you have the added component but you get a big advantage in ease of trouble shooting, longer points life and added spark boost w/start on 12v when wired...wire 12V to start feed wire off the starter post after the stomp switch to coil side of the ballast.....personally I would choose a relay for the supplied voltage to the coil side of the ballast so not to experience any voltage drop in the starter circuit....whereas the wire on the stomp switch applies the energizing voltage to the start on 12 relay Quote
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