Removing rear drums today.......Need help!

[Mr. Belvedere]

I have read by somebody, Bill I think, that you can remove rear drums w/o a puller by simply loosening the axle nuts reinserting the cotter pin then drive around a little and they will make a popping sound when loose. Well I did that and nothing, how loose do they need to be? Maybe I have not got them loose enough any other ideas? Drive farther, faster, turn alot of corners?

[greg g]

Try them with the nut a couple threads looser and turn some brisk corners. They should pop eventually. After they pop try not to use the brakes to aggressively.

[Normspeed]

I also hear that driving up or down off curbs (slowly) helps. This method never worked for me, I ended up at the local rental yard to rent the correct puller. It was onyl $10 or $20 per day.

[oldmopar]

You will the correct puller sometimes when the puller will not remove the brake drum a trick is to try to drive it too loosen the drum but you still need the puller. I removed one a few years back that I was beating the handle of the puller with a 4lb and it still was tough to remove. I let it stay overnight mostly because i got tired of beating on it anyhow next day after another beating it finally came loose. The idea of keeping the nut on is to help keep the drum from flying off and hitting your body.

[Mr. Belvedere]

Loosened the axle nuts some more, did a little harder cornering and nothing, so I am off to find a puller for rent.

[Reg Evans]

Yes, rent that puller and heat the hub up with a propane torch if the puller doesn't do it alone.

[Mr. Belvedere]

Successfully removed rear drums, not to much pounding required thankfully. Found the source of a scraping sound, a broken return spring also the wheel cylinders were leaking on the left side of the car front and back contaminating my shoes. So I will be buying kits to redo all the hydraulics. Trouble is I need them quick and cheap. (gee there is something new in the customer world; I want it yesterday and for a song!) I have some spare shoes and a return spring I took off an old axle I had laying around so I am ok there. I wonder if I should just go ahead and rebuild the master cyl while I am at it? Anyway I guess my local Napa is the fastest way to get this stuff if not the cheapest?

BTW Norm, your right it was only about 10 bucks to rent the puller locally no need to buy another expensive tool.

[55 Fargo]

Mr B., I would buy new cyls, unless you are sure thay are really pit free, if they are they could be cleaned up, and new kits installed, if you buy new go with Reybestos brand, NOS and install new rubber,rather than buy offshore stuff. But if you think they are pretty good inside, clean-up and install new kits, or take to brake and clutch shop, let them clean them and install the kits, a lot of times the experienced guys no how to hone these bays out, and how to tell if they are going to be okay, Just my thoughts, hope it all works out...........Rocky ps, if you are going to do the MC, which is a good thing, if suspect, buy new brake lines, and hoses, heck put all new, then your good to go for a long time and with a completely fresh start, you could use Dot 5 brake fluid, greta if the car sits for long periods of time, I am using it and am not sorry I did

[oldmopar]

Last time I purchased new wheel cylinders I had got them from Roberts were about $34.00 ea for the rears as i recall fronts were less but this was a few years ago. You can check there catalog on line to get there prices then compare with NAPA while you are there. I have also used the wheel cylinder rebuild kits as rockwood stated you need to look and see if the cylinder is pitted. if its only slight you could hone the to smooth but if I see any pitting I usually replace the wheel cylinders. The master is a pain to remove but once its down I rebuilt a few most needed to be honed out or if no pitting just clean them up with some crocus paper. I would definanatly replace the brake lines and hoses I buy the lines at napa and bend them to fit not perfect but My thoughts are once I get my car going the next important thing is to stop

Ed

[RobertKB]

I have a friend in the car club who is an old-time mechanic and when he was young he worked in a Chrysler dealership when our cars were new, or just a few years old. He always says you don't need the cotter pins in the rear axle nuts as the drums just tighten onto the axle as you drive. This would be in direct contrast to what a lot of you are saying. I don't have cotter pins in my '53 and have had no problems. Only once had to tighten the nuts very slightly and they have been that way for at least 6 years. Using a puller is really the only way to get the back drums off.

[bob_amos]

Richard, You should have checked out the Golden State Region tool loan list at the web site. You would have seen that I have one listed as a loaner for the club members. It's the one I use at the shop so a loan turn around must be done quickly, but you could have dropped by and borrowed it and returned it next week end during the clubs run. I assume that you are trying to get the old girl ready for the run next week? I am looking forward to seeing that car of yours. The photos are a beauty.

[Normspeed]

Glad you got the drums off OK. I sent you a reply PM with some other info. I'm free most of this weekend if you need some help.