Nigel Bailey Posted September 14, 2020 Report Posted September 14, 2020 Hi all, I have attached a pic of my oil filler breather cap (1948 Aussie Dodge D25), which has a piece of sheet metal pop-riveted to one side. I first thought this was some sort of bodged repair, but it looks like there is a properly formed 'cut out' underneath, through which you can see the gauze of the breather. What's going on here? Should the cap be 'solid' all the way around, or does it have a largish cut-out in one side? Secondly, I have recently acquired this vehicle( conventional 3 speed manual, not Fluid Drive), and the clutch is only taking up in the last inch of the pedal release. I know the manual describes how to adjust pedal free play, but are there any adjustments that can be done to get the clutch to engage earlier? Apologies for any 'obvious' questions here; I'm learning as I go with this car! Thanks, Nigel Quote
Hamilton Posted September 14, 2020 Report Posted September 14, 2020 It can be challenging to climb into the head of previous owners but at first blush I'd guess that a PO lived in a very dusty area and that the modification to the oil filler cap was done to mitigate the possibility of dust infiltration (whether or not such an adaptation would be effective in that location). Another possibility could be that a PO was prone to using "drain" oil in his engine from time-to-time (BTDT) and would top off the engine through his clever modification, using the screen in the cap to help remove at least some impurities from the used oil. _ Quote
greg g Posted September 14, 2020 Report Posted September 14, 2020 Looks like an operator added piece to me. Don't think the factory used aluminum pop rivets. Have seen them with the opening on the bottom and some with the opening in the side, and the earlier ones that looks like a bowler hat. Never seen a stock one with that type of flap added on. Wonder if your engines suffers from compression blowby that was pushing oil out and this was to catch it and return drops back into the tube? Normally this is air in to provide circulation through the crankcase and out the road draft tube on the rear right hand side or the engine. 1 Quote
DonaldSmith Posted September 14, 2020 Report Posted September 14, 2020 The oil filler cap has an opening with mesh filter, to let air into the crankcase. The opening faces away from the front of the car, so as not to force the air into the crankcase. The draft tube, hanging down on the other side of the engine, allows air and fumes to get out of the crankcase. The end of the tube is beveled, so that the passing wind will suck, or draw, the fumes out. 1 Quote
Nigel Bailey Posted September 14, 2020 Author Report Posted September 14, 2020 Thanks for all the replies and advice!-I think I'll remove the piece and the make sure the cap is faced around the right way. Cheers, Nigel Quote
DJK Posted September 17, 2020 Report Posted September 17, 2020 On my 52 Cranbrook with flywheel refaced, new clutch disc, new throw out and pilot bearing, 1" of free play at top of pedal, the clutch engages near the top also which was a little troubling, but it operates fine. Quote
Nigel Bailey Posted September 20, 2020 Author Report Posted September 20, 2020 Ok-I think I've figured it out, thanks to some links on the Forum! I reckon the filler tube has been inserted in the wrong way (180 degrees) around at some point, so that the filler cap opening faces forward instead of back, and a previous owner has simply bodged up a cover over the opening to prevent air being forced down it. I say this because the cap only seems to go on one way-Is this possible? I also can't see any sign of a bracket that might support the top of the tube and attach to the block, but maybe they didn't all have this? I'm assuming the tube is a press fit, and some light taps with a rubber mallet around the base might loosen things up? Advice as always gratefully received by this newbie! Cheers. Quote
Andydodge Posted September 20, 2020 Report Posted September 20, 2020 The tube is a press fit and as you say a few light taps should loosen it, maybe squirt some WD40 or similar around the bottom of the tube.........also the top of the tube should have an indent/pressing that helps to locate the cap the correct orientation.....at least thats what I've found on a few............andyd Quote
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