Nigel Bailey

Well, over 2 years later and yes @maddmaxx1949 a new clutch and re-adjustment of the free-play did the trick! Sorry for the update delay-in February 2022 the mighty Dodge was submerged up to its roofline in Brisbane's flooding, and is only now back in one piece and finally (almost) ready for registration! The aim is to have it back on the road, for the first time in probably 20 years, before Christmas. Cheers, Nigel

Sorry to hear that Keith. I'd wish I'd seen your video earlier-things sometimes take a while to surface here in Oz, but the people on this Forum are always informative and helpful! I've had my own unsatisfactory experience with the retailer you mention, but I'll leave it at that.

Thanks Steve!

Yep Bingster; looks to be identical to the one Mopar Pro (and possibly others too) are selling: https://www.oldmoparts.com/parts/g_service_brakes/brake-adjusting-tools-for-mopar-drum-brakes/

Thanks Rich!

Hi all, I am attempting to set up the brake linings on my 1948 D25 Dodge for a more concentric fit inside the drum, using one of the Andy Bernbaum adjustment tools. I get the process, and the need to adjust the cam at the heel end of each shoe with the drum off. Now this may well be a stupid question, but I assume I need to slacken off the anchor bolt nuts on the backing plate before I can adjust these? I've only ever done the 'minor' adjustment at the toe end of the shoe before with the drum still on, and I'm finding the cam on the anchor bolt for the heel of the each shoe is very tight and difficult to adjust much. Thanks in advance for any advice as I learn my way around the old girl-after a few hiccups along the way, she should hopefully be registered and back on the road in a couple of months!

Thanks Sam-yep, the recommendations from over here in Oz have also been the Facet 'Cube' pumps, either model 40104 or 40105, so it looks like I have a way forward now! By the look of that engine bay pic, you've got a dual master cylinder conversion (extended pushrod through the old one to a Wilwood?) with external reservoirs and a modern spin on oil filter. Nice!

Thanks for the help Sam! I now believe the psi should be more like 2-5 psi; this has given me something to go on. Cheers, Nigel

Hi all, I'm looking for advice on a suitable 12V electric fuel pump that will replace the mechanical pump on my near standard 218 (25" block). It has a Langdon's HEI distributor and is 12V/neg earth, but everything else is pretty much standard. Pump will be mounted near fuel tank; my understanding is that it should be in the vicinity of 4-7 psi, but I'm not sure of the suggested flow rate? Pump will be sourced here in Australia for my 1948 D25 Dodge, so any recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks!

Hi all, I was wondering if anyone had any experience with 'generator-look' alternators such as Powermasters' Powergen (I believe the correct model for me would be the 82112) or Don Allen's Gener-Nator? I have a 1948 Dodge D25 (think 218 Plymouth P15 with a 25" block), which will be converted to 12V/negative earth/alternator, once it recovers from being submerged in the recent floods here in Brisbane ☹️ . I like the idea of using the original case as in the Gener-Nator, but it is over twice the price of the Powergen. I would prefer to use something like these, as opposed to a 'modern look' alternator. Any thoughts from anyone who had experience with either would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Nigel

Thanks chrysler1941 and Rich!

Hi all, the attached photo shows a new firewall grommet for the throttle pedal shaft for my D25 Dodge. Am I correct in assuming that the protrusion faces forward in the direction of travel, like in the photo, so that on the inside of the car the grommet is virtually 'flush' with the kickboard? Cheers, grommet pic.docx Nigel

Hi maddmaxx, I have currently got the Dodge off the road as my 'freshen up' has turned into more of a 'rolling restoration'. Currently also have the pedals removed, as the brake master cylinder is off for overhaul. I did manage to get a slightly earlier take-up by adjusting the free-play, however the next step will probably be having a go at the departure gap as Sniper suggested. I also have a new clutch disc ready to go in should investigations reveal too much wear. Will keep you posted when I get back to the clutch! Cheers, Nigel

Hi Chris, not sure: the car previously ran an electric pump and just had a blanking plate over the fuel pump mount. Not a lot of parts availability here in Australia so I get most of my new stuff from Andy Bernbaum or Rock Auto. I'm wanting to return the car to 'standard' looking (although it will be 12V/neg earth) and am also chasing a D6G1 Carter carb to replace the old Stromberg that's on there, but that's another story. It's a steep learning curve for me, but I hope to have the ol' girl back on the road by the end of the year, and the Forum here has been fantastic help. Thanks, Nigel

Thanks Young Ed. It's not too late; by the pivot pin, do you mean the shaft that the pump arm rotates on in the pump body? Are you able to send a photo of the solution you suggest? I've also heard that the pins that hold the actual pump arm together can slip out, and that a careful centre punch to flare them out slightly can help, or is this not really an issue? Pump is from Andy Bernbaum.

Thanks vey much everyone! Cheers, Nigel

Hi all; about to fit a standard mechanical pump (pic attached) to my '48 Dodge D25. A trial fit seems to suggest the pump arm sits under the cam lobe, and on the bench, the arm seems to have a downward stroke of approx. 1/4 inch. I have rotated the motor until the cam is off the lobe next to the pump arm, however there still seems to be some pressure/deflection of the arm when I offer the pump up for fitting. I've never fitted one before: is this normal and am I doing things right? Confirmation or correction from those more experienced/talented than me would be appreciated! Cheers, Nigel

Thanks!

Hi Chris, I've got the same sort of fuel drain plug fitting on the tank of my 1948 D25 Dodge here in Australia. It looks for all the world to me like a female torx fitting, but surely this can't be right? What do people use to remove the drain plug? Cheers, Nigel

Thanks guys-much appreciated! Cheers, Nigel

Well, I've got the manifolds off and split without breaking anything (so far)! The plate in my exhaust manifold that directs exhaust gas under the inlet manifold has long since frozen in what looks like the closed position and there are various parts missing. As I live in a warm state in Australia, I was aiming to have this plate closed permanently anyway. My question is, judging by the picture, it almost looks as if some of the plate has been trimmed-shouldn't it close fully against the inside of the exhaust manifold? Or is this the normal closed position? So need to decide whether I should let sleeping dogs lie and leave as is, or weld a new plate in there that fully seals off the space. All suggestions welcome! Thanks, Nigel PS exhaust manifold will be ceramic coated after clean up to (hopefully) reduce heat transfer around the carb/fuel lines/pump.

Thanks-I'm pretty sure my Carter carb has a fixed main jet. Good to hear there's another old mopar running around locally. Cheers, Nigel

Hi all, my Aussie spec 1948 Dodge D25 (standard Canadian 'long block' 218) is currently running a Stromberg carb, which I'm perfectly happy with, although a Carter BB (pic attached) did come with the car. The Carter is marked as a C6J1, which I believe was late 1930's Plymouth 201, whereas I think mine would have originally been a D6G1. Would a C6J1 work on my car (it is in standard tune, no mods), or should I be looking for a D6G1? Any light thrown on the complex (to me anyway!) world of Carter carbs for my car would be most helpful. I have removed the front panels for better access as I prepare the old girl for life back on the road-I'm right on the limits of my skillset here and appreciate all the great advice on this forum! Cheers, Nigel

Thanks so much for taking the time to reply, everyone (and for the diagram Sniper-I get what you mean now)! I'd like to contribute to the Forum with help of my own, but am afraid I'm going to just have to be a sponge for a while while I learn the ropes. Hopefully in the not too distant future there'll be one more old mopar alive and kicking, and back on the road in Australia. Cheers.