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Posted

That timing chain appears worn...I could not find a specification for allowable chain deflection, but the FSM has one picture that shows a timing chain installed and it appears to have less than 1/2 the height of a link.  The slack in that chain translates to the earliest form of variable valve timing, resulting in uneven idle, uneven performance, backfiring, etc.  If you deflect one side of the chain outwards so that the other side is straight, that outward deflection will give you an idea about how close the chain is to hitting the cover.  I have diagnosed many modern cars with worn timing belts as they would be slapping against the cover, so the inside cover of your flathead might tell ya if this chain may have been getting a little too friendly...

 

additional information - Timing Chain Details

additional information - Timing Chain Removal

additional information - Timing Chain Installation

  • Thanks 1
Posted

For better or worse I was always taught to replace timing chains and gears as a general precaution.  The way it was put to me was "There are some things that you just don't scrimp on" :)

 

I'm pretty sure I've followed that advice on every engine I've rebuilt.  

 

Brad

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Alright, today went sideways........ Water valve to the sink leaking in the master bathroom.  Replaced the leaking cold and hot water valves, that project got done.  With a little daylight left I pulled out the head assembly for some cleaning with the wire brush on the grinder. Thanks to conversations with bkahler, I may start a trend for the C series with putting in a brake booster set up for my MC, when the time comes. I didn't get measurement needed today, cuz my step son showed up out of the blue. 

 

Here are pics of some progress on the head assembly........

y4mrrS3H-16v_Q_3w8sBHmo2Cl2NV0YTPUzuRD0My4mGRE4Xi-forAQQAJV08toZyAbOXPt2A1eZWtOxy4mMr-VMeOfN-_YTxAYDwJtsL8hVROUxfVjXQ_ULy4mFB7U4YKUEUW1evlnCijCbZmVYV0tpkDteuR5p

 

The surface rust is from running the hose through coolant ports on the head to flush it out and letting it sit on a towel for 2 weeks. 

Haven't got all the paint or carbon out yet, but was a good start......

 

 

Edited by CO54
Typo
  • Like 2
Posted

The block and head will go to the machine shop, after I run them through the large parts washer at the Auto Craft Shop,  it's 5 bucks per use.  Wanna give it to em as clean as possible.  From the engine serial number it's an early '54 so I suspect that some items carried over from '53.  The VIN is also very low on the reference list from the CA plant. 

 

 

Posted
1 hour ago, CO54 said:

The block and head will go to the machine shop, after I run them through the large parts washer at the Auto Craft Shop,  it's 5 bucks per use.  Wanna give it to em as clean as possible.  From the engine serial number it's an early '54 so I suspect that some items carried over from '53.  The VIN is also very low on the reference list from the CA plant. 

 

 

 

Makes perfect sense.  I find it interesting that you have a place you can take the block and head to have it washed.  Wish I had something like that close to me.

 

Brad

Posted
8 minutes ago, bkahler said:

 

Makes perfect sense.  I find it interesting that you have a place you can take the block and head to have it washed.  Wish I had something like that close to me.

 

Brad

A perk of my work location.  There are various facilities that I have access too.  The Auto Craft Shop required a safety test to get a card to use it, they have 25-30 bays, most with lifts, various large tools that can be used or rented, 2 paint booths, tire machines, alignment machine etc.  You just pay for hourly bay rental, and certain additional services/tools.  I'll be doing the block washing my self by loading into washer.

  • Like 1
Posted
25 minutes ago, CO54 said:

A perk of my work location.  There are various facilities that I have access too.  The Auto Craft Shop required a safety test to get a card to use it, they have 25-30 bays, most with lifts, various large tools that can be used or rented, 2 paint booths, tire machines, alignment machine etc.  You just pay for hourly bay rental, and certain additional services/tools.  I'll be doing the block washing my self by loading into washer.

 

Nice!

 

What happens if you have to leave a vehicle on the lift for a day or two?

 

Posted
1 hour ago, bkahler said:

 

Nice!

 

What happens if you have to leave a vehicle on the lift for a day or two?

 

Overnight charge, then hourly rates start when they open at noon. 

Posted
1 hour ago, CO54 said:

$6 for non-lift bay, $8 for lift bay

Not bad at all considering a lift can be really handy for some tasks.

 

I have a 4-post lift and love the capabilities that it provides.

Posted

I would kill for a 4-post lift, but I'll get one after getting kids through school and onto life.  The next house will have the separate shop from the house. 

Posted

Another decent day of weather in CO, while it's January.......Tore down the block as far as possible with the tools on hand, then proceeded to clean the outside of the block up after flushing the cooling system for an hour plus.  Total of 7 freeze plugs on my block,  had the 5 on the side pulled cuz I forgot about the rear before mounting on the the engine stand. Found another plug on the front, under a felt gasket between the block and mounting plate.  Date stamp on the block is 1/53, and the head is 8/53.  Happy with the progress.  Parts got pulled, labeled, and bagged.  Yes, I took pics for future reference of certain parts.

 y4m8L3sxuqeleTP5H-jydOt3VHspiLqi_-TOSQhCy4mMcLbJdebpRLvZgopawyCXemD1tNz9hQUJREPQ

y4m9jbECC6EM02l5d6PjeRn4OyMiTeQ1jIPH9_sQy4mh8Ok-a0UYYadaz89vdVkGHvpAM4X0BO2ppoKGy4mC9v-DQxTuuvJqo4VHJiHbiVURZDXDfmXrBrT_y4mhBuXzTDHxzLB2S8IWqTTrqVG53-QNqnuYiwvcy4mkVvkCN3tORYQEDb1xHRilFzMaCv17mhByNtply4mUO2ExdbrIsBVvxOgWlJzzhtBj3Krxy68unEaU

 

The pistons have a good amount of carbon build up, all the rings on each piston move freely.  I'm curious about something to soak the pistons in to get the carbon to break up and possibly degrease at the same time??????

Thanks!  Today was a good follow up for the Birthday weekend too. 

 

Quote

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Are you going to rebuild it- rebore? If will be bored again do not waste any time on cleaning of the pistons and rings, will not be reused. If not sure yet wait until you know. Plenty to do until then.  ?

 

DJ

Posted

Cylinder walls look great!  When ready for the machine shop, and get the results, I'm hoping for a honing and new rings/bearings on the original pistons.  Wifey n I both agree to salvage as much original as possible. Even with the whole 98 hp it's rated at. Lol

Posted
1 hour ago, CO54 said:

No idea on the torque rating.....

 

Dang, now I'm really curious!  

 

I keep forgetting I have the salesman's book, maybe it references torque.  I'll try and remember to look this evening.

Posted

Torque.....

 

Here's the ratings for 1951 trucks:

 

1/2 ton     - 175 ft/lbs @ 1600

3/4 ton     - 175 ft/lbs @ 1600

1 ton         - 190 ft/lbs @ 1200

1-1/2 ton  - 192 ft/lbs @ 1200

2 ton          - 193 ft/lbs @ 1200

2-1/2 ton   - 206 ft/lbs @ 1200

2-3/4 ton   - 253 ft/lbs @ 1300

3 ton          - 280 ft/lbs @ 1600

3-1/2 ton   - 280 ft/lbs @ 1600

4 ton          - 330 ft/lbs @ 1200

  • Thanks 2
Posted

Got the valves pulled, cam shaft out, and pulled the block off the stand, stood it vertically and started filling the water distribution tube with vinegar to try to break up the crusty rust inside.  Didn't get pics with hands covered in grease.  Will keep moving forward. 

Thanks. 

Eric

Posted
2 hours ago, CO54 said:

Got the valves pulled, cam shaft out, and pulled the block off the stand, stood it vertically and started filling the water distribution tube with vinegar to try to break up the crusty rust inside.  Didn't get pics with hands covered in grease.  Will keep moving forward. 

Thanks. 

Eric

 

I looked again for the removal tool and still haven't found it.  It's not like me to throw anything away so who knows what box it's hiding under.  I'll keep looking.....

 

 

Posted
32 minutes ago, bkahler said:

 

I looked again for the removal tool and still haven't found it.  It's not like me to throw anything away so who knows what box it's hiding under.  I'll keep looking.....

 

 

Thanks, I definitely like it standing on end, it's easier to get a look and access to it. 

Posted
3 hours ago, CO54 said:

Thanks, I definitely like it standing on end, it's easier to get a look and access to it. 

 

When I was trying to get my distribution tube out I think I soaked it in Kroil or something similar for several months.  After all the soaking the machine shop finally got it removed by using the tool that I made.   My engine was in really bad condition because it sat in a salvage yard without a head for x number of years.  I also had to have liners installed in three of the bores just to make the block usable.

 

 

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