Rust treatment

[lostviking]

Like many, my truck has some surface rust where there is unprotected metal. Even just steel nuts for instance. I would never have put it back together with any bare metal...but then.

So I purchased a highly rated rust conversion treatment, gave it a try on some easy to reach items as a test.

Short story, I will be going over the entire truck and treating everything I can reach that needs it.

Here are some pictures of untreated, treated and the convertor product for reference.

[lostviking]

Here is what the radiator support bolts looked like before I treated them. Even touched up a spot or two on the head and top of the water pump.

[Old CWO]

I have used quite a bit of that Corroseal in harsh marine environments - it's good stuff.  Seemed to work better than the similar Ospho product.

 

It will last a surprisingly long time without top coating, but priming and painting over it gives better results as expected.

[lostviking]

Just remember to sand anything you want smooth before you treat it. The result will eat even the best emery cloth.

 

[lostviking]

Not to beat a dead horse, but here is one side of a bell housing, velvety rust covered...and the other side after I used the Corroseal. I've got some brake and clutch pedals and the rod that I also did. They look like I painted them black. I applied the product twice to those parts.

[lostviking]

Second picture after the treatment

[JBNeal]

I ran into an issue when painting rust-treated castings in that small amounts of debris would deposit in the pores...this debris would look like tiny little flakes of crud, very hard to see if not looking for it, that if painted over, would behave like painting over dirt...the eventual solution that had the best results was to lightly brush the casting surface in a circular pattern with a stiff nylon brush (like a fingernail scrubber) then vigorously rub the castings in a circular pattern with an old tube sock turned inside out.  The inside of the sock had more surface area than the outside, and this helped in dislodging the debris...then clean the casting with car wash soap and water, towel drying asap.  This helped to produce a finish without blemishes or flaws

[Eneto-55]

My intake, exhaust, head, & bell housing are all cad plated.  I got carried away with that, when I should have used that opportunity to replate stuff like the hood latch, that really was originally just cad plated.  [I also cad plated the engine surrounds (mud, dust, & water shields), and now I'm not even sure I will use them.  Poor priorities, I guess.]

[lostviking]

7 hours ago, JBNeal said:

I ran into an issue when painting rust-treated castings in that small amounts of debris would deposit in the pores...this debris would look like tiny little flakes of crud, very hard to see if not looking for it, that if painted over, would behave like painting over dirt...the eventual solution that had the best results was to lightly brush the casting surface in a circular pattern with a stiff nylon brush (like a fingernail scrubber) then vigorously rub the castings in a circular pattern with an old tube sock turned inside out.  The inside of the sock had more surface area than the outside, and this helped in dislodging the debris...then clean the casting with car wash soap and water, towel drying asap.  This helped to produce a finish without blemishes or flaws

 

Good point. On the bell housing I did hit it with a wire brush, that isn't debris in the picture, just areas that didn't get a good coating. I the peddles I didn't, but there was no lose stuff and the surfaces are very nice. One note, on area's that are NOT rusted the Corroseal can be removed. It doesn't seem to attach to bright metal surfaces. I only tried scrapping a little and it wasn't even that hard. But on the rust areas it is like a rock.

[ggdad1951]

14 hours ago, Eneto-55 said:

My intake, exhaust, head, & bell housing are all cad plated.  I got carried away with that, when I should have used that opportunity to replate stuff like the hood latch, that really was originally just cad plated.  [I also cad plated the engine surrounds (mud, dust, & water shields), and now I'm not even sure I will use them.  Poor priorities, I guess.]

 

I love CAD plating....just getting it done now it hard to do with not many doing it anymore.  When I built FEF, I had a line in on a guy that made resto parts for Indians..I just piggy backed on his lot of parts.   The hardest part was fining my odd stuff in his piles of stuff!

[Eneto-55]

6 minutes ago, ggdad1951 said:

 

I love CAD plating....just getting it done now it hard to do with not many doing it anymore.  When I built FEF, I had a line in on a guy that made resto parts for Indians..I just piggy backed on his lot of parts.   The hardest part was fining my odd stuff in his piles of stuff!

I have wondered about that.  Already when I was working in that field (late 70's, very early 80's) the cad balls were only available from some place outside of North America, either Australia or New Zealand as I recall, but I don't remember which.  So bright plated nuts & bolts that you can still buy - I wonder where they are made.  Sure looks like cad to me.  Anyway, my idea with doing the exhaust manifold was that it shouldn't ever burn off, but since my car has sat in storage since 82, I've not started the engine yet.  Now I'm missing some parts - stuff can walk away in that many years.