1958 Dodge utility truck

[falconvan]

Got the front measured, cut off the original frame, and doing some trial fitting on the Dakota clip. Looks like by notching the Dakota framerails, I can slide about 6" of them into the original frame rails and then weld in supports. Also looks like the original underfloor pedals are not going to work so I'll using a firewall mounted master cylinder, hanging pedals, and converting the clutch to hydraulic.

[falconvan]

So I got the clip welded in solid; need to go back and put in some supports later but it’s good to finish the rest of the setup. I cut the front of the old frame off; this is where the core support and motor mounts mounted. Rather than trying to recreate this, I’m going to cut off the front of the Dakota frame rails and splice this in. I marked the location of all the mounting holes on the concrete using a plumb bob and a tape measure before I cut the frame so I should be able to get it back in the same spot.

Edited August 26, 2019 by falconvan

[ggdad1951]

I hope you are fishplating the sides of the joint?

[falconvan]

3 minutes ago, ggdad1951 said:

I hope you are fishplating the sides of the joint?

Oh yeah; 1/4" plate both sides, top and bottom. It's not going anywhere.

[Fernando Mendes]

On 8/19/2019 at 10:45 PM, falconvan said:

Nice! Those Sweptline trucks had some beautiful beds.

 

[falconvan]

After a lot of thought I realized this is going to sit way too low and 10 times as much work to finish if I leave it this way. Doing a C notch on the rear would be a nightmare; it'd mean cutting the frame, bed floor, and possibly raising the engine and trans to get the angles right. I do still want it to be functional as a truck, just with better brakes and steering. I had a late night last night cutting the front clip loose and remeasuring. I don't want to do anything crazy to the rear end other than have the springs de-arched to take it down a few inches. Taking the overload springs out already took it down quite a bit. So I'm trying to calculate where the front end needs to be to have it sitting level after the weight of the drive train and front sheet metal are back on. So I think (hope) this is going to be the right place. Ended up with about a 4" offset between the original frame and the Dakota rails so I'll have to build some 1/4" fish plates to bring it together. We shall see once the weight of the engine is on it and I have the frame off the jack stands.

[falconvan]

I’m glad I backed up and redid this; it came out much better.I set the motor in to see what it looks like loaded and it’s just about right. The weight of the trans, front sheet metal and radiator should bring it down a little more. Now I just need to add some more braces, clean up and paint the frame and firewall, and start on the drivetrain.

[falconvan]

I got everything boxed and braced today; my old welder got a serious workout. I’m going to break out the power washer tomorrow. I also think I’m going to go ahead and change all the A-arm bushings, ball joints, and tie rod ends. Might as well start out fresh.

Edited September 2, 2019 by falconvan

[greg g]

Fire departments were funny about equipment loadouts.  Better to have at the scene and not need it, than to need it and not have it.  

[falconvan]

Yeah I imagine they had quite a load on it when it went to a call.

 

The magic of POR 15.

[falconvan]

The old flathead ran great but it had some oil leaks from old dry gaskets. So it’s just going to get a new gasket set along with a new water pump and some paint.

[falconvan]

Spent lots of time cleaning and painting parts the last few days; as soon as the gasket set gets here I can put the motor back together. Looked great inside, nothing to replace.

[falconvan]

I decided to do a trial fit on the engine to make sure I had the motor mounts in the right location and check that the oil pan would clear the Dakota frame. It dropped right into place but I am going to have to do a little notch on the frame; the oil pan is just touching the back of the front crossmember. But I’m happy; all the measurements looked like they were right. Should have the motor bolted in for good this week and be able to start putting all the stuff back on it.

[falconvan]

Got a fair amount done this week. Just about everything is bolted on the engine, trans is in, and one side of the suspension has new a-arm bushings and ball joints. Got a lot of late hours at work this coming week so probably won’t get back on it until next weekend.

[falconvan]

Almost back on all four feet 

[falconvan]

I got the front end finished up this evening; looks like a clear path to the rack connection for the steering shaft hookup. Should be doing steering column and start figuring out the pedals this weekend.

[falconvan]

Got my steering column and pedals mocked up. The old column was missing several parts and had an add on blinker switch. This one came from an early 60s Dodge truck. Just had to swap the shaft so the steering wheel splines would match. For pedals I modified a set of Fiero pedals and used a Wilwood clutch master and a big bore Mopar brake master. I’ll probably start on wiring next before I start putting the front clip back together. I saved the whole wiring harnesses from the Dakota; I’m just going to modify it and use it.

[falconvan]

I’m not going to paint this but I am going to address a few spots where it’s rusted through. I found a core support and another passenger door that will help fix the serious cancer.

[falconvan]

Started getting the front clip back together. I got this grill off the other truck; it’s a 1959 but it’s in better shape and I like the look. I’ve got a little rust repair on the driver’s fender and the passenger door but the rest is going on as is.

[falconvan]

Got more stuff put on and the rust in the fender cut out and patched. Now I’m going to go ahead and start wiring; just needed an inner fender to run the wiring on first.

[falconvan]

Finished up the wiring and everything works. Now I just have to wrap it. It worked out good using the Dakota harness. The old Motorola radio was in a box in the back when I bought the truck; I think it makes a cool prop. I’m going to hide a radio in the glovebox so there’s nothing modern looking on the dash. Next if going to put the exhaust back on, then the fender and start fixing up the passenger door.

[falconvan]

Alive again!

 

[falconvan]

Got the back of the door patched; now for the front

[falconvan]

Last bit for this weekend 

[falconvan]

Got the front patch made and tacked in; I’ve been using the Dakota hood for patch material. Hope to get it finished up and in primer this weekend.