RedHot71 Posted December 29, 2018 Author Report Posted December 29, 2018 Frame number is 82821995 & door pillar tag number is 82586392. I am confused. Any input? Door pillar tag model number is B-3-HHA-192. Possibly not the correct pillar tag? Quote
RedHot71 Posted December 29, 2018 Author Report Posted December 29, 2018 Frame number is 82821995 & door pillar tag number is 82586392. I am confused. Any input? Door pillar tag model number is B-3-HHA-192. Possibly not the correct pillar tag? Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted December 29, 2018 Report Posted December 29, 2018 82821995 appears to be a J series 1951-52 truck as best as I can see in the parts book. What's the engine # stamped on the block pad above the generator and right below the head..? Quote
Merle Coggins Posted December 29, 2018 Report Posted December 29, 2018 I wonder if someone swapped cabs for some reason in its past. It seems unlikely that someone would just swap out the ID tag unless they needed one for a valid title. What S/N is shown on the title? Your frame number is what I’d go by... 1 Quote
Todd B Posted December 29, 2018 Report Posted December 29, 2018 The title will have the engine numbers Quote
wallytoo Posted December 30, 2018 Report Posted December 30, 2018 i'm with merle. i wouldn't be surprised if the cab was swapped. Quote
RedHot71 Posted December 30, 2018 Author Report Posted December 30, 2018 VIN on the title is 13188488@82821995 Quote
Brent B3B Posted December 30, 2018 Report Posted December 30, 2018 (edited) Looks like you got it. Edited December 30, 2018 by Brent B3B Quote
RedHot71 Posted December 31, 2018 Author Report Posted December 31, 2018 Number stamped on the engine is T318-8488. Does it appear the cab has been changed? Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted December 31, 2018 Report Posted December 31, 2018 (edited) Looks like it has... Re- issued numbered title probably too Edited December 31, 2018 by Dodgeb4ya Quote
RedHot71 Posted December 31, 2018 Author Report Posted December 31, 2018 Looks like I've got a 2 1/2 ton short wheelbase dump truck. Thanks for everyone's help. Cab being replaced explains a lot. Still on a search to repair/replace wheel cylinders. Back @ it! Quote
Merle Coggins Posted December 31, 2018 Report Posted December 31, 2018 Your title appears to be using the engine number and chassis number. Strange.... Quote
MBF Posted January 3, 2019 Report Posted January 3, 2019 I would think the p/n's that I provided in an earlier post would be correct then. I wasn't sure if your's was a H or J series. Mine is a JA (2 speed rear) but I would imagine everything else in the axle housing except for maybe the axle shafts themselves would be the same. FYI-my overhauled brakes with the original vacuum booster are WAY more brakes than are needed for the truck's current mission. They're much more effective than those on my B2D 1 ton. Mike 1 Quote
RedHot71 Posted January 3, 2019 Author Report Posted January 3, 2019 That sounds right. Mine has the 2 speed rear end & is JA as well. I'll check those part #'s out. Thanks. Quote
RedHot71 Posted January 5, 2019 Author Report Posted January 5, 2019 That sounds right. Mine has the 2 speed rear end & is JA as well. I'll check those part #'s out. Thanks. Sent wheel cylinders to White Post Restorations in Va. yesterday. Part #'s did not compute to anyone here in Jacksonville, N.C. Can't wait to get this thing back to work! While waiting on cylinders, I have begun a basic tune-up. The throttle linkage seems to be hanging up until I hit the gas pedal again hard. Anyone had an issue w/any part of their throttle linkage? Just started happening. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted January 5, 2019 Report Posted January 5, 2019 When I find my throttle linkage starting to get a little sticky, and hanging up, I spray down all of the pivots, with a dry lube. It lets all the linkage parts slip and slide easier and things seem to work better. 1 Quote
RedHot71 Posted January 5, 2019 Author Report Posted January 5, 2019 Sprayed w/white lithium grease, did not appear to help. Does the dry lube work better? Quote
Merle Coggins Posted January 5, 2019 Report Posted January 5, 2019 I just didn’t want something for dust to stick to and gum things up even more. Do you have something rubbing, or binding up somewhere? Quote
MBF Posted January 6, 2019 Report Posted January 6, 2019 There is a return spring that goes back to an eye of a cotter key poking through the passenger side floor toe pan. Check the tension on that spring it may need to be replaced. Other possible problem areas could be the ball pivots on the bottom of the gas pedal, and the ball mount on the rod that comes through the firewall to the pedal. Clean and lube them as well and look for an obstruction or something rubbing where the rod goes through the firewall to make sure it isn't rubbing on something. My 2 ton does the same thing because it doesn't get driven that much so the spring ritual is to lube the pivots. Quote
RedHot71 Posted January 6, 2019 Author Report Posted January 6, 2019 Thanks, That has been bugging me. Took the pedal completely off & that didn't help. The rod going thru the hole in the firewall seems awful sloppy. I will clean & check all pivot points & look for something binding. Just noticed that the battery cable leading to the starter has been taped up. Could be the culprit. Will get someone to operate it while I investigate. Quote
RedHot71 Posted January 6, 2019 Author Report Posted January 6, 2019 Anyone out there had to replace their gas pedal before? Cheapest I can find for replacement is $49.95. Part #451964. Quote
Brent B3B Posted January 6, 2019 Report Posted January 6, 2019 28 minutes ago, RedHot71 said: Anyone out there had to replace their gas pedal before? Cheapest I can find for replacement is $49.95. Part #451964. I bought one from https://www.robertsmotorparts.com/gas-pedal-dodge-truck-plymouth-truck-fargo-truck-1933-1953-chrysler-dodge-desoto-plymouth-1928-1936-1 i am happy with for my B4D remember, photos are always nice when trying to answer trouble shooting questions (worked on the cylinder mystery ?) 1 Quote
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