finally ..265 build runs

[robt]

I thought I'd share my 265 project since I've spent countless hours reading this forum.   I hope I can attach a link to the youtube video.  The block is a (T118) 237 from a 1947 dodge 1.5 ton truck.  I had to relieve (grind)the block  just a small amount to create clearance for the 265 rods.  I had a later 251 block to use as an example.  The turned crank and reconditioned rods were from George Asche as were the matched set of carbs, cam, and split exhaust.  The block had the deck machined and was bored .060 over.  New valve guides and cam bearings were installed.  The bearings, pistons and rings were from Terrel machine in Texas.  The Manely valves were from ebay from a gentleman in Finland.   I built the Accel plug wires from a universal set.  The Edmunds custom aluminum intake was a craigslist find.  The cam is the .380 lift with 242 degree duration that has been mention on the forum from AoK.  Valve springs are from VPW.

 

I'm starting with a 12 volt battery currently, although I plan on keeping 6 volt.  Currently, I don't own a 6 v battery that has enough cranking power. There are several little things that are not completed to the way I want them, but I wanted to get it running.  throttle linkage, fuel and oil lines, etc.

 

I do have  one issue.  The front main seal drips one drop every 3 minutes but if you rev it, it throws 3 or 4 drops of oil as it decelerates.  I'm running 10w30 with a zinc additive.   Possibly 30 wt oil help this? Any suggestions or if anyone has seen this before, I'd love to hear from you.

 

 

 

I bought a 1929 Chrysler roadster project that hopefully will be the new home for the 265.

I'll probably do a compression test at some point just as a baseline.  All and All I very happy with the outcome.  

Thanks for looking and for all the information.

 

If the video doesn't attach , I'll work on attaching it.

Rob

[Andydodge]

Sounds nice..........re the oil leak..........was there any mark on the front pulley/balancer/hub at all?..........I assume that the front seal is new and not a 40yr old NOS piece thats gone hard?........I'd be replacing the front seal and maybe using a speedie sleeve on the hub as at present you can relatively easily get into it without the front sheet metal etc in the way...........nice setup..........andyd 

[kencombs]

It's possible to install the front timing cover without the seal opening being centered over the crank.  If you didn't install the seal before tightening the bolts, or didn't use a centering tool, that may be the problem.  If the cover isn't glued to the gasket and/or block, you may be able to loosen the bolts and move it to center.  That is if the bolts from inside will allow any such movement. 

[Worden18]

Looks and sounds really nice!  Congrats on getting it running. 

[robt]

• Quote

  I had originally installed a non balancer style pulley. I happened to find a damper style pulley and installed it in place of the old pulley.  The  seal surface was really good and I used a new seal.  The seal not centered to the pulley makes sense.  I'll loosen the timing cover and let it center itself and re-tighten the bolts and see if that helps.  Thanks again.

   

[maok]

On 5/28/2018 at 10:34 AM, robt said:

 

 

 

I bought a 1929 Chrysler roadster project that hopefully will be the new home for the 265.

 

 

I would be very interested see how you tackle this. Keep us updated.