512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

[Radarsonwheels]

Bill,

I love it! Your truck is so clean and nice with just some subtle custom details. 

 

You went exactly opposite from oil soup and my louvers but with similar size and spacing. It looks like you deleted your cowl vent so I guess there is no worry about dumping heat into the “AC” system! I have seen some yarn/wind tests that show more of a circulation out in the front louvers and in the rears than a straight exhausting of hot air. 

 

Any worry about water pooling in your air cleaner lid and possible hydro-lock after a torrential downpour?

 

Do you have a link to a build thread or anything?

 

Thanks for showing the pics!

[falconvan]

Beautiful work; very classy looking truck 

[Radarsonwheels]

More adventures in EFI tuning!

 

Now that cold weather hit and my louvered hood is also letting the engine bay run much cooler I have started having an off idle hesitation during normal or heavier acceleration. I suspected the weather change plus the sticky tires were contributing to the problem- before not only was the motor seeing much less dense air but the motor couldn't really hesitate when the tires were up in smoke at 1/2 throttle.

 

That diagnosis made sense but I was also nervous that maybe there was some kind of problem rearing its head. The cool thing is that I can datalog trips in the truck onto an SD card in the EFI handheld controller/dash and review them in excruciating detail. So Thanksgiving morning I drove to meet a buddy at the outdoor range for our annual celebration of freedom and logged the trip home for viewing while all the ladies talked about lady stuff after dinner. We had my wife, daughter, mom, and mother in law there. At least the dogs are males! I'm not a sports guy but I was happy to do dishes and escape to the laptop to view my log. In front of a nice fire with a full belly! I thankfully didn't find evidence of any problems based on all the live sensors during the drive but I was able to see lean spikes after throttle application off idle.

 

I flashed the current tune to the SD card, brought it inside and boosted up the acceleration enrichment based on TPS Rate Of Change. Basically the computer version of an accelerator pump. It took a few tries to make me happy, tuning on the laptop, flashing the new tune to the ECU, and datalogging a trip around the block terrorizing my neighborhood. Now it has a rich spike on heavy throttle but no bog so I might tighten it up more but I don't think it'll foul plugs or anything.

 

When I put on the drag radials I was pleasantly surprised that they almost dead hooked on the street. Well- it turns out that it wasn't a dead hook it was just the world's shortest lean spike/hesitation with a smooth recovery. Now the truck still hooks really well with the sticky DOT drag radial tires but it is back to laying stripes in 1st gear with any more than a 1/2 throttle stab.

 

She really rips lips now!!!

 

Happy late Thanksgiving fellas I hope you're all enjoying your families and your trucks. It's supposed to snow later tonite so no truck fun for a couple days at least. Maybe I'll get my heater re-cored and adapt a 12v fan into it soon.

 

 

[Radarsonwheels]

[Radarsonwheels]

Big news- I’ve spent some money and almost guaranteed myself a month of metalwork and downtime! 

 

I found a windshield on Ebay and got a Steele gasket for it and they’ve arrived on my doorstep. The glass when overlayed on the existing windshield looks like it’s just right using the very scientific method of setting it down on there under the wiper  blades by myself in the driveway after dark. It is listed as green tinted which is subtle and not darker on the top. I have green lights in my gauges so that works. 

 

The gasket doesn’t appear to have corners molded in but again using the very scientific method of popping it onto the glass in my living room also looks like it will conform to the curves without  wrinkling and has a reasonable amount of snugness. In other words it looks like it’s gonna fit!!

 

I have looked around for glass before and since 1953 is two flat planes and 1955 wraps around way farther (even changing the door shape to accommodate the wrap) I knew I was dealing with a magical “one year only” part. A unicorn.  I kind of figured the $1000 pricetag including shipping and a gasket would scare me away until I finally was ready to make a move at which time the part would be permanently unavailable.

 

It was $300 plus $90 to ship cross country to a residential address in a box big enough for a speedboat which seems actually very reasonable. The Steele brand rubber gasket (locking strip style, installed inside out on my test fit in the pic) was $200 shipped. Ouch but no more 70 year old glass sandblasted by years of driving with wiper grooves and cracked rubber that leaks into my new interior every time it rains.

 

The actual glass swap should take a half a day but I know my A-pillars are made of rust and forgotten dreams. Now is the time to grind out all the rot, fix the driver’s door frame, and cross my fingers that there is any pinch weld there at all under the old gasket. I will have to remove the interior, tape off the dash, disconnect the electronics, fun fun fun. At least it’s bitter cold winter outside! I could wait till spring but then it’ll just rain every day.

 

pictures!

 

[bkahler]

9 hours ago, Radarsonwheels said:

Big news- I’ve spent some money and almost guaranteed myself a month of metalwork and downtime! 

 

I found a windshield on Ebay and got a Steele gasket for it and they’ve arrived on my doorstep. The glass when overlayed on the existing windshield looks like it’s just right using the very scientific method of setting it down on there under the wiper  blades by myself in the driveway after dark. It is listed as green tinted which is subtle and not darker on the top. I have green lights in my gauges so that works. 

 

The gasket doesn’t appear to have corners molded in but again using the very scientific method of popping it onto the glass in my living room also looks like it will conform to the curves without  wrinkling and has a reasonable amount of snugness. In other words it looks like it’s gonna fit!!

 

I have looked around for glass before and since 1953 is two flat planes and 1955 wraps around way farther (even changing the door shape to accommodate the wrap) I knew I was dealing with a magical “one year only” part. A unicorn.  I kind of figured the $1000 pricetag including shipping and a gasket would scare me away until I finally was ready to make a move at which time the part would be permanently unavailable.

 

It was $300 plus $90 to ship cross country to a residential address in a box big enough for a speedboat which seems actually very reasonable. The Steele brand rubber gasket (locking strip style, installed inside out on my test fit in the pic) was $200 shipped. Ouch but no more 70 year old glass sandblasted by years of driving with wiper grooves and cracked rubber that leaks into my new interior every time it rains.

 

The actual glass swap should take a half a day but I know my A-pillars are made of rust and forgotten dreams. Now is the time to grind out all the rot, fix the driver’s door frame, and cross my fingers that there is any pinch weld there at all under the old gasket. I will have to remove the interior, tape off the dash, disconnect the electronics, fun fun fun. At least it’s bitter cold winter outside! I could wait till spring but then it’ll just rain every day.

 

pictures!

 

 

All I can say is WOW!!!  

 

It will be interesting to see if you have any fingernails left once the glass install starts...... ?

 

Congrats!

 

 

[Radarsonwheels]

Thanks BK

 

No fingernails?! Ouch! Do you mean from chewing them to the quick being nervous about breaking my new glass? I have a nice set of plastic tools for gently prying the gasket in place and I should be able to recruit some help so there will be a set of hands on both sides of the glass both in removal and on installation of the new windshield. 

 

I am kind of looking forward to seeing how bad the A pillars actually are. I haven’t been able to really find the source of the water- it drips from the bottom passenger side of the gasket but could be getting in anywhere and running to the low spot. 

[bkahler]

11 minutes ago, Radarsonwheels said:

Thanks BK

 

No fingernails?! Ouch! Do you mean from chewing them to the quick being nervous about breaking my new glass? I have a nice set of plastic tools for gently prying the gasket in place and I should be able to recruit some help so there will be a set of hands on both sides of the glass both in removal and on installation of the new windshield. 

 

I am kind of looking forward to seeing how bad the A pillars actually are. I haven’t been able to really find the source of the water- it drips from the bottom passenger side of the gasket but could be getting in anywhere and running to the low spot. 

 

Chewing

 

I had great success using 3M 08509 window glazing and bedding compound.  It sealed my motorhome windshield that had several bad leaks.  It stays semi soft.  Applied from the outside by lifting the gasket and applying a bead underneath.

 

Good luck with the install.

 

 

 

 

[CO54]

I have no worries, you'll get it sealed up (sooner or later).  Great find on the windshield though.  I know you n I are both in the same issue with our year and specific parts.  Unfortunately, I've stalled with the holidays, and kids right now.  Such is life though.   Keep it up Kev!

[Radarsonwheels]

So far only got in a trip to the store. It’s been so cold out I don’t want to deal with frozen rubber parts. It’s bad enough that the gasket is ancient and dry. 

 

I have heard a few different places that this stuff is the real deal.

[Radarsonwheels]

It got a little warmer this afternoon and the rubber floormats seemed to bend easily so I started in on the windshield project. I really couldn’t wait to find out how bad it would be in there.

 

The windshield gasket was reasonably rubbery for its age- not exactly soft but not rock hard and chunks split off rather than shattering.  Maybe it was swapped out in the 80s? No way to know. I used a hook pick to pull out the lock strip in 1-3” sections. It was pretty brittle.

 

Once that was out the structure of the gasket was severely compromised making it easy to break off and razorblade the outer lip that holds the glass. I did that all the way around except a few feet of the center bottom. 

 

I spent a while on the phone looking for some free hands and finally found a couple fellas close by that could spare 15 mins to swing by. When they got here I ran a plastic knife around the inside lip of the gasket and pushed the top of the glass out toward them. Once it hinged forward in the remaining bottom rubber channel they were able to lift it out and set it on a towel in the bed. It’s in fairly sorry shape but I’m keeping it for a spare. 

 

Then it was the moment of truth- we peeled off the stock rubber and hack-applied RTV (it was me ha!) from the pinch weld. 

 

Not too bad! 

 

The interior pinch weld flange is mostly all in good shape. The bottom and top edges of both flanges are in amazing shape and the bottom is still wearing a lot of factory paint untouched by the sun for 66 years. 

 

The A pillars have some rot and metal missing especially near the top and bottom edges. I’ll have to tarp out the interior and get in there with a wire cup to blast out all the crap. Hopefully it isn’t a lot worse than it looks. Then I have to decide how much metal work to do or if I can get by with a little 3m panelbond or tigerhair. This is my best chance to do it right the first time though!

 

pics!

 

[Radarsonwheels]

Darn the pics posted out of order. The middle set of 4 is the first one showing the gasket destruction the top 4 and bottom 2 show the pinch weld and A pillar condition

[bkahler]

There's some definite rust you're going to have to deal with but I've seen worse.

 

Are new windshield gaskets available?

 

 

[Radarsonwheels]

Yep. I got a “Steele” brand one piece gasket. I tried it on the new glass and it was a comfortable stretch. The corners are not molded which might actually make it easier in one way because I won’t have to make sure it is properly positioned in the window frame and harder because the lockstrip gap is tighter around the radius. 

 

The gasket was around $200 so I am going to take it slowly on installation! 

 

 

[bkahler]

17 minutes ago, Radarsonwheels said:

Yep. I got a “Steele” brand one piece gasket. I tried it on the new glass and it was a comfortable stretch. The corners are not molded which might actually make it easier in one way because I won’t have to make sure it is properly positioned in the window frame and harder because the lockstrip gap is tighter around the radius. 

 

That's where you just take your time, but then you already know that

 

17 minutes ago, Radarsonwheels said:

The gasket was around $200 so I am going to take it slowly on installation! 

 

You should make a youtube video of the install.  I'd love to see it.

 

 

 

[CO54]

You do have some work to do in a few key places.  After watching your mind work, and push through challenges I have confidence in you getting done correctly and moving forward.  Besides it's been awhile since we've seen any of your elaborate sketches showing your plan of attack. 

Eric

[Radarsonwheels]

Thanks Eric

 

It was unseasonably warm today but I slept in and did family stuff- a great day. The only progress I made was deciding to definitely do the repairs the right way with new metal welded in. 

 

I might get some work done this week but if not Merry Christmas everybody!

[billschwindt]

Merry Christmas to all . Yes to your question about pics and  info  on build  i"ll get some on here sometime .  Bill 

[Radarsonwheels]

I knew after wirebrushing I would find more rust and pinholes. Well it turns out that the entire front skin of the A pillar was competely rusted through on both sides and only attached on the bottom edge that flows into the cowl. I zipped it off and saved it. The upper portion where the roof skin lops over also had a bunch of rust holes so it came off too. Then I couldn’t be sure that the drip rail wasn’t letting water in and couldn’t get inside it to clean and look for holes so it got zipped off and saved too. 

 

Talk about one step forward five steps back! I am not going to have time to start fabricating patches yet.

 

I’m not sure what needs to happen with the area under the drip rail- there are three layers there, somewhat delaminated and not too rusty but not great. The front face and lop over portion I think I will add new metal to the existing pieces I trimmed off and weld them back on. 

 

The driver’s side is not as bad but I’m sure it will need a bunch of similar work too. For now I’m leaving it so I can copy what’s there as I re-do the passenger side. 

 

[Radarsonwheels]

Any advice on handling the drip rail layers is appreciated!

 

I am not afraid of cleaning and chemically de-rusting between the layers but I’m not sure how to put it back leak free. The rail attaches to the bottom layer above the window. The front edge of the drip rail was pretty rusty so I cut it all off but the horizontal upper portion I left the spot welded flange and zipped off the rest to get access to assess and clean out.

[bkahler]

Wow, you have considerably more work to do that I thought from those first pictures.  Do you have a source for replacement sections?

 

 

[CO54]

From looking at the pics, it looks like the roof was set down onto the A pillar, then welded, with the drip rail being a binding element put on last somehow and obviously not filling the gap.  Is it possible to do the needed rust stop, then re-weld the the 2 roof sections (pinch if needed), put the drip rail back in last?  Then possibly run a fine bead of along the inside of the drip rail with a sealer?

[Radarsonwheels]

Nope BK no donor truck or purchased sheetmetal. Just a pile of raw mild steel scraps and another whole sheet on order. 

 

CO I think we’re on the same page. I’m going to clean out those roof edge layers the best I can and try to weld them into one solid edge. The panels I removed will get repaired and extended then welded back on the truck along with a replacement for the missing pinch weld flange. Then the drip rail will get put back on last with a skim of seam sealer for good measure. 

 

It’s funny now that I couldn’t figure out where the leak was coming from and letting rain water in. More like where wasn’t it leaking?!

[Radarsonwheels]

I did some more pondering this morning. I’m going to try using the bead roller to make the patch panel that includes the pinch flange for the glass, and on the outboard side of the pillar skin I might do the same or I might do the angle iron and hammer type ‘bending brake’.

 

I am conflicted about the lopped over portion of the roof skin and considering deleting it in favor of a smooth one piece look. I’m not sure- it will depend on what is going to be easier and give the better result in terms of water tightness and aesthetics. 

 

The roof to door frame pinch weld has a lot of dirt and rust packed inbetween the spot welds. I guess I’ll just keep digging it out with scotchbrite cookies on the whizzer until I can do rust converter and hammer and dolly it into something that can get welded into a leak free flange that will get the drip rail welded back onto it. The drip channel will hide any imperfections if I do it right. 

 

Amazing how rust and dirt can expand the channels between the spot welds over years like a tree busting up a sidewalk.

[bkahler]

Needless to say I'm looking forward to how you work through this rust issue.  It takes talent to deal with issues like that, something I do NOT have in this area!

 

Good luck

 

Brad