casper50 Posted April 29, 2018 Author Report Posted April 29, 2018 I removed the hot wire to the coil. No voltage between the two terminals of the coil when wire is removed. There is conductivity. Quote
Dave72dt Posted April 29, 2018 Report Posted April 29, 2018 by removing the small wire that goes directly to the dist,, you're testing the coil. With the hot wire attached and the distr, unhooked, was the voltage the same on both small terminals. That's not the same thing as conductivity. Quote
casper50 Posted April 29, 2018 Author Report Posted April 29, 2018 Voltage is the same at 6.22 volts Quote
Dave72dt Posted April 29, 2018 Report Posted April 29, 2018 OK, so your problem is in the distributor., at least at this point, probably the condenser. leaving the dist unhooked, go back and take the hot wire off, reattach to key switch wires and confirm voltage stays the same. now your testing the switch and the wires going to the dist. Quote
casper50 Posted April 29, 2018 Author Report Posted April 29, 2018 switched wires voltage the same at 6.22 Quote
Dave72dt Posted April 29, 2018 Report Posted April 29, 2018 ok, switch is good, primary side of coil is good, wiring is good. That takes you to the distributor itself. reconnect the small wire going to the dist. Disconnect the condenser from the points. with the points open ( slide some paper or cardboard between them, you should have batt voltage at the points Quote
casper50 Posted April 29, 2018 Author Report Posted April 29, 2018 Points have 6.22 volts without condenser wire. Quote
Dave72dt Posted April 29, 2018 Report Posted April 29, 2018 All that's left is that little fine wire and the condenser. Check the wire for fraying or contact where it's not supposed to be. Most likely the condenser but check the wire anyway. Congratulations, you've just completed a step by step troubleshooting of the primary ignition system in your car. You'll want to check your point gap and check for side play on the dist shaft as well since that can affect point gap. Quote
casper50 Posted April 29, 2018 Author Report Posted April 29, 2018 thanks Dave I'll have to wait until morning to get a condenser. Quote
casper50 Posted April 29, 2018 Author Report Posted April 29, 2018 Thanks to you also KnuckleHarley Quote
Dave72dt Posted April 29, 2018 Report Posted April 29, 2018 One last thing, coil orientation. If a positive ground system, the + side of the coil is the one that's supposed to be hooked to the dist, the - will be from the switch. 1 Quote
casper50 Posted April 29, 2018 Author Report Posted April 29, 2018 tks thats the way that i have it Quote
casper50 Posted April 29, 2018 Author Report Posted April 29, 2018 of course not a single auto parts store has them in stock. Have to order and ship. Quote
knuckleharley Posted April 29, 2018 Report Posted April 29, 2018 3 hours ago, Dave72dt said: You're welcome. You are welcome. May I suggest that while you are ordering a replacement condenser,that you order 2 or them. Or maybe even three to make sure you always have a spare. I always like having a spare distributor cap,rotor,condenser,and points set in my trunk. If I am going anywhere but local,I also like to have a spare rebuilt fuel pump and water pump,also. Given what rollback rides and hourly shop rates are now,plus shipping and a motel room while you are waiting for it to come it,it's pretty cheap insurance if you are on the road. And really,that's probably 90+ percent of what goes wrong with these old cars. Mechanically they are pretty bulletproof if in good condition and you keep them cool and lubed. Quote
casper50 Posted April 29, 2018 Author Report Posted April 29, 2018 I ordered two condensers. Once I get it running I'll order two of everything. I now have two coils and will have two condensers. I'll get points rotor and cap as well. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 29, 2018 Report Posted April 29, 2018 been following this...why not just use you VOM and know for certain what the condition of the ignition is and not just buy this or that? Quote
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