engine break in

[JohnS48plm]

The new engine is finally going in tomorrow. I pulled the old one today. I was wondering what kind of break in suggestions everyone has. I'd like to know what has worked well on other engines. John

[Lou Earle]

I have re done a few engines and the local engine builder says set her in set her up double check everything fire it up and run it ON FIRST FIRE UP fro a minimum of 30 minutes at 1500 plus rpm . Do not shut it off just let it run. Scares me to death every time but it I believer is the standard way now

Lou

[Normspeed]

I did the same on my motor. With the exhaust system unfinished it roared like an airplane motor for those first 20-30 minutes at 1500.

I followed a break in suggestion by a guy on the DeSoto DeSpatch:

First 500 miles, I used Castrol GTX 5w20 and did not push the car hard but drove it normally.

Then, Fresh filter and Castrol GTX 10w40 for the next 2,000 miles.

Then, fresh filter and Shell Rotella T 15w40. My other choice would have been Mobil 1.

Next change I'll go with 20w50 if I can find it, otherwise I'll stick with 15w40.

This is for the Southern California climate, a little frost in winter, and in summer you might be driving in 105 degree heat. Since I don't have chokes I always warm it up for at least a couple minutes when I'm cold starting it. That gets the oil into all the right places too.

[Jerry Roberts]

If you have replaced the oil pump , here is a tip from Vintage Power Wagons ; " It is very important to prime the oil pump prior to installation . Before you start the engine , remove the oil pump and completely submerge oil pump in clean oil . Turn the shaft by hand until there are no more air bubbles . Reinstall the pump with a new gasket . ... Disconnect the coil wire and crank the engine until you have pressure on the guage . Reconnect the coil wire and start the engine . " I agree with Lou's description above also .

[47heaven]

The new engine is finally going in tomorrow. I pulled the old one today. I was wondering what kind of break in suggestions everyone has. I'd like to know what has worked well on other engines. John

That's a real shiny silver. Is that how shiny the original was? The reason I ask is because mine is almost completed and the only spray paint that I could find for high heat was aluminum. The mechanic said that the engine had more of a duller silver.

Speaking of that...where can I buy the correct silver paint for the engine?

[Mr. Belvedere]

That's a real shiny silver. Is that how shiny the original was? The reason I ask is because mine is almost completed and the only spray paint that I could find for high heat was aluminum. The mechanic said that the engine had more of a duller silver.

Speaking of that...where can I buy the correct silver paint for the engine?

You might try the eastwood company, they have a high temp paint for headers, says its a "brilliant matte silver finish" so I take it to mean, bright but not shiny.

[Jim Yergin]

Regarding engine paint, you should go to the Reference section on the P15-D24 main web site. There is information there on engine paint.

Jim Yergin

[Brad Lustig]

I'm one of those that is in the school of "drive it like you stole it" on new engines. Of course, you want at least a couple hundred miles of going easy-ish.

[JohnS48plm]

The engine went in today, tomorrow I will install the tranny and hook everything back up. The oil pump was primed as VPW suggests and will be run to pressure before initial startup. The paint on the engine is POR 15 and does look quite shiny. I'm hoping it will dull down after it gets hot. Thanks for the break in tips. John

[Normspeed]

I never did manage to get pressure with the starter. After several long grinds, I finally just hooked it up and started it, and the pressure instantly shot up to 40.

[Lou Earle]

Two views on first start up:

1-Have oil in pump and start it right up - that causes less turning over without oil but it is pressure on bearings right off the bat.

2- remove plugs and turn it over until u see the oil pressure needle just move or go to no more than 10, then install plugs and fire it up.

I have read and used both. I know of no way to tell which is best It seems to me that turning it over without plugs might be best no real pressure on mains etc. and it has some start up oil there from builder and turning it with starter until you see a pulse in the oil Gage assures there is oil circulating thru the system. So I am going withe guess?? NEITHER!!

Because absolute best route-I ma told by a great engine builder to

remove the oil gage line and attach a pressurized oil tank and pres or push oil thru system. My engine builder has one and tells me that MUST be done with some new engines because of the distance from the pump to lube areas.

So he will lend me his tank to pressurize the system before I start it .

If I had no tank to do that I would as a matter of preference remove plugs and pump up the system with the distributor.

All who have Chevy engine I know do it that way and my god if those Chevy can start those delicate sissy engines that way our rough and tumble bull- dog engines should survive initial start up that way.

Lou

[greg g]

Don't forget that all important head retorque after the initial run.

[greg g]

Also the manual says to use straight SAE 10 W oil for the first 1000 miles. then change oil and filter (if so equiped) and refill with oil of a viscosity appropriate to the anticipated atmospheric temperatures.

Anything over 32 degrees says SAE 30. Don't think 40 or 50 was in vogue at the time our cars were produced.

[JohnS48plm]

Greg, I remember when we retorqued the head in Vermont. This time I won't be doing it in a hotel parking lot. John

[Normspeed]

Lots of helpers there.