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Posted (edited)

This for your truck?

 

I retired mine twice, in hindsight, I made the task much too complicated. The truck has two simple separate systems, three if you include the turn signals. One is to the engine, the second to the lights, the third the turn signals. There are no fuses. I suggest you study and know each system before you start. Good luck. Oh and release the oil line from the gauge cluster and pull it out to where you can work on it and remove the steering wheel to give yourself some room. 

 

These are are my opinions based on my experience, they more like guidelines than hard and fast rules. 

 

Some where in the future I may totally rewire my truck. My very best to you. 

 

 

Edited by pflaming
Posted

where is it from>  RIWire?  If so, it will be plug and play

Posted

What diameter again?  I might have a few extra 

Posted

I rewired my truck in 2016 and posted where to find the firewall grommets:

 

(Don't know about car grommets, but a while back I found these for my B4B.  They had LOTS of sizes and shapes to choose from.)

Cableorganizer.com Inc.

6250 NW 27th Way

Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33309

866-222-0030

 

Part number: (SKU) OMAR-0545    

Description:  3/8” x 1/8” x ½” x 5/8” x 13/32” rubber grommet        $0.81   This is the one the oil line goes through (truck)

 

Part number: (SKU) OMAR-2872    

Description:  1” x 1/8” x 1 3/8” x 1 3/4” x 1/2” rubber grommet       $4.13   This is the one the wiring goes through (truck)

 

These two grommets fit great. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks for the grommet link. Thought McMaster Carr would be my place, but the hole was bigger than I'd want.

 

oh, Paul, the dash is empty. Completely. About ready to paint. 

 

All the works for the vent were rusted up, frozen and broken. Dash was very rusty. Will be in much better shape in s day or two.

IMG_0750.JPG

Posted (edited)

Austen, paint the underside a light color, makes for much easier seeing. A good matt clear would make that rusty red a real winner!! Please don't mess with Mother Nature!! 

 

Edit, the more I see that dash the more I want to get my hands on it. I would wet sand with 1000 grit, then prep and Prime, then 4/5 layers of matt clear. Then I would find a very good pinstriper and subtly accent the hues. Black. / chrome gauges and that would be a winner.

Edited by pflaming
Posted

I've "painted" the outside with a product someone here recomended, Owatrol, which is a clear sealer said to kill rust. It looks pretty good, but was too shiny for my taste. I've worked it over with 0000 steel wool, and I think it will be fine. Just for the record, if I was doing it over, I would add a second coat while it was still soft (within 2-3 days) so there would be more thickness as I worked the shine off.

 

Some people use clear coat to do this, but of 3 I've personally seen, all have rust continuing to build and bleed under the clear coat. This product is supposed to chemically put an end to any more rusting. Time will tell.

Posted
14 minutes ago, austinsailor said:

I've "painted" the outside with a product someone here recomended, Owatrol, which is a clear sealer said to kill rust. It looks pretty good, but was too shiny for my taste. I've worked it over with 0000 steel wool, and I think it will be fine. Just for the record, if I was doing it over, I would add a second coat while it was still soft (within 2-3 days) so there would be more thickness as I worked the shine off.

 

Some people use clear coat to do this, but of 3 I've personally seen, all have rust continuing to build and bleed under the clear coat. This product is supposed to chemically put an end to any more rusting. Time will tell.

Does the clear coat give a glossy look? I like a flatter look, but still want to preserve my art work on my truck. 

Posted (edited)

Clear coat is PAINT without pigment for color, so it comes in several types. Since clear is paint, a primer is very important yet primers are NOT clear BUT ACE and others have a product called Prep and Prime and is a clear liquid. The prep is phosphoric acid which neutralizes rust and the Prime is PRIMER! That is what I use and have no rust appearing after four years.

 

one does not want to leave the Prep and Prime on very long, read the directions. 

IMG_5426.JPG

Edited by pflaming
Posted

I have a bag of grommets...if you want one it's free...you can get it when you get bed sides.

 

If anyone else needs one let me know.

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