austinsailor Posted April 3, 2018 Report Posted April 3, 2018 Just got my new wiring harness. They recommend you compare it wire for wire with the old one before starting. This will be fun! Quote
pflaming Posted April 3, 2018 Report Posted April 3, 2018 (edited) This for your truck? I retired mine twice, in hindsight, I made the task much too complicated. The truck has two simple separate systems, three if you include the turn signals. One is to the engine, the second to the lights, the third the turn signals. There are no fuses. I suggest you study and know each system before you start. Good luck. Oh and release the oil line from the gauge cluster and pull it out to where you can work on it and remove the steering wheel to give yourself some room. These are are my opinions based on my experience, they more like guidelines than hard and fast rules. Some where in the future I may totally rewire my truck. My very best to you. Edited April 3, 2018 by pflaming Quote
ggdad1951 Posted April 3, 2018 Report Posted April 3, 2018 where is it from> RIWire? If so, it will be plug and play Quote
austinsailor Posted April 3, 2018 Author Report Posted April 3, 2018 Yes, Rhode Island Wiring. All checks out, looks good. Problem now is finding a new grommet for the hole in the firewall where it goes through. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted April 3, 2018 Report Posted April 3, 2018 What diameter again? I might have a few extra Quote
TodFitch Posted April 3, 2018 Report Posted April 3, 2018 My local hardware store has a selection of grommets, might have one as large as 1 1/2". Have you checked your local hardware stores? Quote
Bobacuda Posted April 3, 2018 Report Posted April 3, 2018 I rewired my truck in 2016 and posted where to find the firewall grommets: (Don't know about car grommets, but a while back I found these for my B4B. They had LOTS of sizes and shapes to choose from.) Cableorganizer.com Inc. 6250 NW 27th Way Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33309 866-222-0030 Part number: (SKU) OMAR-0545 Description: 3/8” x 1/8” x ½” x 5/8” x 13/32” rubber grommet $0.81 This is the one the oil line goes through (truck) Part number: (SKU) OMAR-2872 Description: 1” x 1/8” x 1 3/8” x 1 3/4” x 1/2” rubber grommet $4.13 This is the one the wiring goes through (truck) These two grommets fit great. 1 Quote
pflaming Posted April 3, 2018 Report Posted April 3, 2018 Try Bazzoka bubble gum licorice flavor! Easy to install and "reusable" ! 1 Quote
austinsailor Posted April 3, 2018 Author Report Posted April 3, 2018 Thanks for the grommet link. Thought McMaster Carr would be my place, but the hole was bigger than I'd want. oh, Paul, the dash is empty. Completely. About ready to paint. All the works for the vent were rusted up, frozen and broken. Dash was very rusty. Will be in much better shape in s day or two. Quote
pflaming Posted April 3, 2018 Report Posted April 3, 2018 (edited) Austen, paint the underside a light color, makes for much easier seeing. A good matt clear would make that rusty red a real winner!! Please don't mess with Mother Nature!! Edit, the more I see that dash the more I want to get my hands on it. I would wet sand with 1000 grit, then prep and Prime, then 4/5 layers of matt clear. Then I would find a very good pinstriper and subtly accent the hues. Black. / chrome gauges and that would be a winner. Edited April 4, 2018 by pflaming Quote
austinsailor Posted April 3, 2018 Author Report Posted April 3, 2018 I've "painted" the outside with a product someone here recomended, Owatrol, which is a clear sealer said to kill rust. It looks pretty good, but was too shiny for my taste. I've worked it over with 0000 steel wool, and I think it will be fine. Just for the record, if I was doing it over, I would add a second coat while it was still soft (within 2-3 days) so there would be more thickness as I worked the shine off. Some people use clear coat to do this, but of 3 I've personally seen, all have rust continuing to build and bleed under the clear coat. This product is supposed to chemically put an end to any more rusting. Time will tell. Quote
Saltrock Posted April 4, 2018 Report Posted April 4, 2018 14 minutes ago, austinsailor said: I've "painted" the outside with a product someone here recomended, Owatrol, which is a clear sealer said to kill rust. It looks pretty good, but was too shiny for my taste. I've worked it over with 0000 steel wool, and I think it will be fine. Just for the record, if I was doing it over, I would add a second coat while it was still soft (within 2-3 days) so there would be more thickness as I worked the shine off. Some people use clear coat to do this, but of 3 I've personally seen, all have rust continuing to build and bleed under the clear coat. This product is supposed to chemically put an end to any more rusting. Time will tell. Does the clear coat give a glossy look? I like a flatter look, but still want to preserve my art work on my truck. Quote
pflaming Posted April 4, 2018 Report Posted April 4, 2018 (edited) Clear coat is PAINT without pigment for color, so it comes in several types. Since clear is paint, a primer is very important yet primers are NOT clear BUT ACE and others have a product called Prep and Prime and is a clear liquid. The prep is phosphoric acid which neutralizes rust and the Prime is PRIMER! That is what I use and have no rust appearing after four years. one does not want to leave the Prep and Prime on very long, read the directions. Edited April 4, 2018 by pflaming Quote
ggdad1951 Posted April 4, 2018 Report Posted April 4, 2018 I have a bag of grommets...if you want one it's free...you can get it when you get bed sides. If anyone else needs one let me know. Quote
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