Another 230 build thread

[Dodgeb4ya]

WOW! The rear main seal will turn around and fit!?

[thebeebe5]

Good luck....

[thebeebe5]

16 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

WOW! The rear main seal will turn around and fit!?

 

It will fit, but torquing it to the block deforms the lip, and there’s no room for the lip to ride the crank surface unimpinged.  The rear of the block has to be machined to accept the seal properly.  

[tom'sB2B]

6 hours ago, thebeebe5 said:

 

It will fit, but torquing it to the block deforms the lip, and there’s no room for the lip to ride the crank surface unimpinged.  The rear of the block has to be machined to accept the seal properly.  

Beebe. I’m wondering if you are referring to Tod Fitch’s website, where he machines his 1929 model U engine to accept the more modern neoprene seal

http://www.ply33.com/Repair/rearseal

First. I’m wondering if the machining is necessary for all 230 engines.My engine is a 1947 Dodge 230 with fluid drive.

Second. I know that there has been a lot discussion on the topic of the correct rear main seal for certain engines (You May like to peruse this post )

This is the seal I pulled out during disassembly. This is the gasket kit I used. If this is not the correct procedure, I’m at a loss on what to do.

 

[Dodgeb4ya]

After market parts?

[thebeebe5]

Not sure the size of the hole in the rear of your block, but make sure the seal lips can move freely when the crank is set in place and aren't distorded when the seal is tightened to the back of the block. 

[Branded]

I used the Best 4164 Seal on my 49 Dodge Wayfarer 230 engine when I done my overhaul this past winter. No issues at all , no machining and no leaks. It was a direct fit and identical to the original I removed.

[knuckleharley]

42 minutes ago, Branded said:

I used the Best 4164 Seal on my 49 Dodge Wayfarer 230 engine when I done my overhaul this past winter. No issues at all , no machining and no leaks. It was a direct fit and identical to the original I removed.

This is the kind of tips we can all benefit from.

 

Thank you!

[Branded]

Pictures of my original seal, lip of seal goes towards engine. Notice the manufacturer part numbers DPC stamp.

 

 

[Branded]

[tom'sB2B]

Working on gaping the rings.

Manual gives me a gap between .007-.015 for compression rings

Instructions that comes with the rings says .003-.004 per inch of cylinder diameter. Which is 3.25 X .004= .013

compression ring width=3/32

side clearance=.0025-.004

oil rings gap=.007-.015

width=.155

Clearance=.001-.0025

 

I gaped the rings using an inverted piston and marked each ring for its corresponding cylinder. (Thanks thebeebe!) 

I also checked the side clearances and width of each ring.

[tom'sB2B]

My results

Top and bottom compression rings checked out at .013-.014 for all cylinders

width=.092

Bottom oil ring are gaped at .013

width .153

clearance= .0015

for all cylinders 

 

Im concerned about the first oil ring. I measured the gap of the expand-spacers at .02 . 

[tom'sB2B]

Put together connecting rods and pistons. Made sure that thrust side of piston and oil hole side of connecting rod face the valve/cam side of engine.

 

[tom'sB2B]

Rings are going on. Starting from bottom to top. Trying to make sure oil rings don’t overlap. Red and green color markings allow you to tell if they are overlapping or not. ( I guess your S.O.L. if your colorblind)

[Hemibear426]

Tom's B2B,

How can I determine the thrust side of the piston?

[tom'sB2B]

3 hours ago, Hemibear426 said:

Tom's B2B,

How can I determine the thrust side of the piston?

The thrust side is the solid side of the piston

[tom'sB2B]

I got a little work done today. 

In got the pistons pressed into the cylinders.

Make sure you wear gloves. That ring compressor is sharp!

I put some pieces of rubber tubing over the bearing cap bolts so I didn’t scratch up the journals.

[tom'sB2B]

Measured rod bearing clearance using plastigauge. Found them all to be around .0015. Then measured the end play and got between .06-.08 . I think I’m good to go.?

[Hemibear426]

My machine shop provided Sealed Power pistons. Unlike the originals they are solid all the way around. They do have a notch on the piston top which I am guessing goes towards the front on the engine? Great pictures! And thanks a bunch! My brother has a '47 dodge 4-door. I love the lines on that car.

[tom'sB2B]

Got the cam gear and chain on. Helps to mark where the cam gear goes first. It only goes on one way. 

[tom'sB2B]

19 minutes ago, Hemibear426 said:

My machine shop provided Sealed Power pistons. Unlike the originals they are solid all the way around. They do have a notch on the piston top which I am guessing goes towards the front on the engine? Great pictures! And thanks a bunch! My brother has a '47 dodge 4-door. I love the lines on that car.

Hmmm. Maybe someone with more knowledge will chime in on the proper configuration. Thanks. I’m chomping at the bit to get her back on the road. 

[Hemibear426]

Tom,

If the machine shop did a valve job is it necessary to grind or lap the valves also?

[Hemibear426]

Top of a Sealed power piston with notch. Hope someone knows if this goes towards the front of the engine or not? Piston skirt is solid all the way around with no expansion split. 

[Dodgeb4ya]

Notch to the front on inline engines.

But .......Most times it's still best to contact the manufacturer if  not sure about a very important question!.

[Hemibear426]

Dodgeb4ya,

Thanks a bunch! Just returned from Tennessee with a 1948 Chrysler New Yorker 3 Passenger Business Coupe. Still putting Marvel Mystery Oil down the sparkplug holes! I gotta look up that '52 Imperial Coupe. That's gotta be rare!