Starter Bench Testing

[Tom Skinner]

Just the Jumper Wire the Bushings, the Brushes, and the Brush Springs. Not the Field Coils, They wouldn't come out - even beating them with a 6 pound Hammer on a Impact screw Driver on my Concrete Driveway with my Son holding it - (He is a Marine - strong) we couldn't remove the Coils.

[Tom Skinner]

I did not wire wheel anything

[Tom Skinner]

The Commutator Looked Great, as did the Field Coils. I can't figure this one out. But it must be Grounding out otherwise why the spark show?

[knuckleharley]

1 minute ago, Tom Skinner said:

The Commutator Looked Great, as did the Field Coils. I can't figure this one out. But it must be Grounding out otherwise why the spark show?

I am no expert on this,but it seems to me the field coils have to be shorted  and need replacing.  I had to go through this with my 51 Ford. Took it to a starter and alternator repair shop,and they replaced the field coils and the armature. Cost me 96 bucks. The car had sat for 26 years before I bought it,and the genius I bought it from evidently took the starter apart to clean it,and wire-wheeled the armature,removing the coating sprayed over it to keep it from grounding out the field coils. It eventually got hot enough it fried them as well as the armature.

[Tom Skinner]

OK, I will send it out. I'm bushed, this Starter has eaten my Lunch. Thanks to Dodgeb4you and Knuckleharley, you have been a big help.

The Commutator didn't appear to have any insulating material on it, so maybe the some one has been sassing around with it before me.

Of course I am not much better all I could do was try, and in so doing I think it would have been cheaper to just buy a restored one to begin with.

Oh well, thats pretty much how it goes. Thanks again. I know a guy out west that can fix this abortion. L.O.L.

Tom

[knuckleharley]

" The Commutator didn't appear to have any insulating material on it"

Sounds like you did discover the origin of the problem. All the wingdings in the armature are supposed to be coated with what I have always heard called "shellac" to coat it to keep it from shorting out. Remove the shellac,and you  have a problem.

" Of course I am not much better all I could do was try, and in so doing I think it would have been cheaper to just buy a restored one to begin with/"

Yeah,but then you wouldn't have learned a lesson,just spent money. This way you still spent money,but also learned a valuable lesson you may benefit from in the future. Win/win.

 

 

[Dodgeb4ya]

34 minutes ago, Tom Skinner said:

OK, now I am getting somewhere. The Sparks fly when I remove the Strap and hook the Neg to the nut and the Positive to the Pinion Housing. Something is wrong in as there is 200 + amps intial su

the Starter itself?

There will be some sparks initially as you connect the last cable.... I'm not sure how you are doing it but I just use H-Duty battery jumper cables.

Did the starter begin to spin at all?

 

[Tom Skinner]

Yeah,

I used H. Duty Cables and the sparks kept coming. Something is monked up in there, and obviously I don't know what the HE - double L I am doing. I am going to ship it out West there is a Cracker Jack Starter - Generator Place I know of that will make quick work of this Starter. Thanks again I guess I was in over my head with this one. At least I got my mind right now - (Cool Hand Luke). L.O.L.

 

[Dodgeb4ya]

Well we tried!

Keep us informed....

[Plymouthy Adams]

sounds to me that you have left off or installed incorrectly the insulation on the posts..as for removing the field bolts..that requires a special jig to hold not only the starter body but apply adequate pressure on the screw in form of a fulcrum in order to remove them.  Did you even try to test this starter before tearing it apart?