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U Joiint B1B


jmooner3

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Not sure if it will work, Those fingers on the keepers DO grab the knurled caps, and stop them from moving. I am not sure why they did that, Perhaps you could use the old keepers and new bolts with those bolt tabs Just my 2 pennies worth.

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The keepers don't fit down over the cap like the originals and they push the caps tight on the cross. I flipped them and bolted 1. so the cap doesnt fall out and 2. so I don't lose those keepers if I do end up needing to go with the original. They fit pretty good, seems like it will work.. Merle, I did  pop a couple of the Cclips in but not sure they really do anything as the end cap keepers will keep the caps in.

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The keepers also lock into the knurled caps to restrict the caps from rotating inside the clevis to reduce wear on the clevis.  As the needle bearings wear, the cross "rattles" inside the caps, and this vibration can initiate cap rotation.  As materials and manufacturing processes improved, tighter tolerances could be held so that this rattling was minimized, and the industry shifted from the Cleveland type to the c-clip and spring clip retainers.

I have seen each type of u-joint used on vintage shaft driven farm equipment with varying results.  Cleveland type u-joints tended to show wear on gears and sprockets as full power seems to have been transmitted through the u-joint.  C-clip u-joints tended to show damage to u-joint clevises when one c-clip would break, allowing a cup to work out of its bore.  Spring clip u-joints tended to wear out the cross and roller bearings but could continue to operate as even a broken spring clip could be held in place by the outward force of the cap while the u-joint operated, similar to the fail-safe feature of the Cleveland type :cool:

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  • 2 years later...

During this rainy day, I was doing some follow-up research on universal joints that had been discussed earlierThe Cleveland type u-joints are not easy to find these days, though there are listings at Roberts, MoparMall and DCM.  These units appear to fit, but the grease zerk is not as easily accessible as the original design, which was not a bike ride to get to either.  I found a part number that grey beard had used, but my research looks like that economically priced u-joint is similar to the internal locked unit used earlier in post #25.  So for now, I reckon the limits of our choices are to use a Cleveland-type u-joint that is difficult to lubricate or to use a modern u-joint that is "close enough" :cool:

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  • 2 years later...

Didn't think I.monit would come thru....?

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     Called I.monit 10094 { Atlas Obsolete Auto Parts - Temecula CA }  , Ordered up a PAIR o f Cleveland type U Joints, their epay site said they had 5 sets left @ $247.00 each pair . Called them because the delivery date  April 1 - 6 was not going to work for me. I wanted to do a local pick up. First they told me NO local pick up ( covid ) and they were  NOT in stock !  They hope to have them by next week.

     I am pissed they show in stock, they take my MONEY ( $100.00 more than two years ago ) then I have to call to see they are back ordered. I called around to all our hobby suppliers all are not buying the Cleveland U Joints  from suppliers because the zerks are not in right place, they are trying to get the manufacture remake them. NOT GOING TO HAPPEN.  I might have to go to VPW and replace both yoke and trans ends to modern to get my truck back on the road.

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these reproduction u-joints with the central grease point could work if low profile 90° zerk fittings could be sourced, but those are hard to find these days as well...agreed that it is infuriating to have an online vendor reel ya in with a sale only to say "on back order" when a delivery date is requested.  Updating the entire affected driveline is almost the last resort to source the spicer-type u-joints, short of updating to a newer rear axle, but it sure would be nice to find a crate of Cleveland-type crosses coated in cosmoline :cool:

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