Bolts/Washers/Nuts '48 D24

[librado65]

So Im finally getting around to throwing back my fenders (actually the whole front clip) back on. I realize that after some bolts basically just breaking off from rust I am going to need to replace them with ones. I have looked through the manual but do not see any sizes. I would like to see if there is anyone familiar with the correct sizes?

[knuckleharley]

NOT trying to be a wise ass,but what is wrong with just using bolts big enough to fit the holes,and long enough to allow a nut and washer once the head is flat?

I would use a Grade 5 bolt if it were me,and make sure the bolt was long enough to allow both a flat washer and a lock washer  under the nut.

Buy them by the box at your local hardware store.

[casper50]

I've got a box full of the washers.

[Plymouthy Adams]

1 hour ago, knuckleharley said:

NOT trying to be a wise ass,but what is wrong with just using bolts big enough to fit the holes,and long enough to allow a nut and washer once the head is flat?

I would use a Grade 5 bolt if it were me,and make sure the bolt was long enough to allow both a flat washer and a lock washer  under the nut.

Buy them by the box at your local hardware store.

in some cases the holes are blind....in other words no rear access.  In sense of one man show and ease of install you wish not to try and be in two place as the same time installing hardware straddling a newly painted body and fender and to many folks, it just makes for a cleaner/neater install. 

Not a D24 but on installing my P15 rear fenders I used 5/16-18 bolts.   Be sure to clean the threads by chasing them with a tap...will make install so much easier for you..

 

[knuckleharley]

19 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

in some cases the holes are blind....in other words no rear access.

True,but you can still see the hole and figure out what size bolt it takes,and figure out how long it should be.

[Plymouthy Adams]

yes to that end a check/test fit would be easy and X+Y=z-answer.....owning a tap and die set is ideal if you are not a good judge of size and thread count by eye...

but the man will need to address the broken bolts..my car came from Indiana and I would guess spent a fair amount of its time there.  I did not break any bolts coming out...of course I usually always use my torch to heat the bolts to prevent this very scenario.  Now on a car that is not destined for refinish and new paint...this would not be a useful option. 

Edited November 5, 2016 by Plymouthy Adams

[casper50]

over half of mine broke off when I removed the fenders.  Drilled them out and chased the threads.  getting ready to remount the fenders in a week or so.  Need to find a way to do that without scratching the new paint  with just me to do it.

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

tape a thin cardboard between the bolt holes using blue painters tape above the fender line...once the bolts are started and not quite snug..slip out the cardboard as you start snugging up the bolts...be sure your trim if being used is in place also..a cereal box makes good durable protection without being overly thick..

[casper50]

Thanks for the tip.  Sounds as if it will come in handy.

 

[knuckleharley]

34 minutes ago, casper50 said:

over half of mine broke off when I removed the fenders.  Drilled them out and chased the threads.  getting ready to remount the fenders in a week or so.  Need to find a way to do that without scratching the new paint  with just me to do it.

 

PLEASE let us know if you figure out a way to do that.

[knuckleharley]

1 hour ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

yes to that end a check/test fit would be easy and X+Y=z-answer.....owning a tap and die set is ideal if you are not a good judge of size and thread count by eye...

but the man will need to address the broken bolts..my car came from Indiana and I would guess spent a fair amount of its time there.  I did not break any bolts coming out...of course I usually always use my torch to heat the bolts to prevent this very scenario.  Now on a car that is not destined for refinish and new paint...this would not be a useful option. 

IMHO,owning a tap and die set is essential,period. I even use a tap to run in the thread holes after the body work and paint,and sometimes run the bolts through a die to clean up any rust on the threads.

 

I have also found it helpful when removing hard bolts to stop occasionally and tighten it back up finger tight or so again before backing it up to completely remove it. That gives the rust a chance to be broken free from the bolt and the female threads,and makes it easier to unbolt a bolt without stripping it or breaking it off.

I am also a fan of lubing the bolts before installing them along with fresh lock washers.

[Plymouthy Adams]

that is very true, while many do not consider the fact that the bolt threads that exceeds the depth of the nut/anchoring threads are exposed and tend to crust up at an advanced rate with rust.  Never ever get in a hurry removing hardware from the old beasties.  Heating does indeed basically vaporize rust...lubrication can soften it and care in removal by repeatedly working the nut in and out as it tightens will save the day..as much common sense needs to be exerted as brute force..a few minutes of practiced patience and methodology will save you countless hours of backing up by having to rework a selection of body fixed bolt holes by drilling and tapping....take a minute now...not an hour later...

[JerseyHarold]

If you have a parts book, you can match the bolt part number in the body section with a fastener description in the standard parts Section 18.  That has worked for me a number of times.

[Bingster]

Ditto. My parts book for a 1947 De Soto lists all the fasteners: their thread, length, head type, composition metal ,etc.