greg g Posted October 8, 2017 Report Posted October 8, 2017 Haunted???? While you are messing around there, think about repowering the switch through a seperate and dedicated fused line. You can grab power from the battery side of the negative cable near the starter Bendix assembly should be hot with key off. This will eliminate any questions on the power side of the equation. It doesn't take a lot of debris within the switch to mess them up. Quote
38plymouth Posted October 14, 2017 Author Report Posted October 14, 2017 I put the new brake light switch on this morning and it ""appears"" that the problem is solved. I'm not going to call the victory until I've use the car for a month and it continues to work! The old one was so tight I never thought I was going to get it off I had to hammer a socket on to it and use a breaker bar and a long extension. I'm going to drive the car for a while and make sure it's working and maybe I'll rebuild the master cylinder in a few weeks. It still seems to work fine but it's been about 15 years since the last rebuild. Quote
pflaming Posted October 14, 2017 Report Posted October 14, 2017 I admire the absolute simplicity of the OE brake light switch. They are so inexpensive I keep two new ones in my, in the cab, spare parts box, with proper socket to match. Quote
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