jljarnes Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 To make a long story short while I love my 1951 B3B, I basically got given a 1987 318 with low miles and a 727 Tranny and since I had been pondering the swap for a while I decided to jump on it. I just pulled my old engine and tranny, than this afternoon while trying to place the 318 I didn't know what people have done to negotiate around the fact that the starter is in the way of the steering column. I actually don't mind my steering at all and have already upgraded to disc brakes so I'm not looking to do an IFS but I don't want to try and reinvent the wheel plus I'm really green when it comes to engine swaps so I thought I'd ask to see if anyone has done this and what they did. Do i need to cut into the firewall to move it back 4-6 inches and/or mount the engine off center? Thanks for and help you can provide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 I did both on my truck, firewall cut and off set to the right. You can also get a gear reduction starter that will save you some room. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jljarnes Posted June 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 (edited) Thanks Dave, how far did you offset your engine 2-3"? and how far back did you have to cut the firewall? Any pictures? Also does it add to the vibration or have you had any other ill effects from your engine not being centered? Edited June 4, 2016 by jljarnes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 I'm 2 inches to the right and about 6 back, done as much for improving weight distribution as for clearance. However, I'm also running a MII suspension with a front mount rack. You'll have to judge for yourself how far you need to go for clearance. I have enough in front for a stock location cooling system. The offset will not cause vibration as long as you pay attention to proper driveshaft angle. Factory offset in the Mopar muscle cars was common. Brother's 03 Mustang is also offset to the right. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John U Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 I put a power rack on my axle no more interference with the steering, I'm not sure how much I moved the engine back I'll check in the morning it's at least 4 inches, I did move it to the right almost 10 years since I did it, mind gets cloudy with age. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 Just how starter to column interference are we talking about? Any photos? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John U Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 Starter and steering box want the same space with stock box even with small starter Chevy would work starter on the other side but you can't do that it's sacrilegious that and it's just wrong!!!!!!! sorry I even brought it up must have hit my head to even think that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 Starter and steering box want the same space with stock box even with small starter Chevy would work starter on the other side but you can't do that it's sacrilegious that and it's just wrong!!!!!!! sorry I even brought it up must have hit my head to even think that. was not hit hard enough...let me help... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jljarnes Posted June 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 I left my truck at my parents shop since I had an engine hoist there so no pictures at present but they do compete for the exact same space. I got a mounting kit from advance adapters with the ability to off set it easy. I just didn't know about what those changes would cause seeing I'm definitely no engine swap guru... Thanks for everyone's input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted June 5, 2016 Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 Off-setting the engine to the pass side 2" will have zero effect on just about everything. Just keep in mind that the engine trans package must move....imagine a straight line through the crank and out through the tail shaft...and a similar line through the frame rails. These lines must be parallel. Yes, the u-joints will be fine with the offset. Does 2" solve the problem? Will a 'peanut' starter then help solve the problem? How much more movement would solve the problem? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jljarnes Posted June 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 I'm looking forward to heading back to my parents to getting my hands on the truck again but from what I can tell if i move it 2" over and around 5-6" back like Dave mentioned that should give me the clearance I need and after seeing that the dart and valiant came offset stock from the factory I'm feeling better about it too. I do have a 2000 8.8 rear end I got out of an explorer for cheap and that is offset anyway so as long as i get my angles right I'm not seeing a big problem yet? I just hate cutting into my firewall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted June 5, 2016 Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 2 " over and 5-6 back worked in my truck. My truck does NOT have stock steering or suspension. It may not be enough in a stock steering and suspension truck. It may be plenty. Tape measure and mockup will tell you exactly where you can put it. Do take into account exhaust, cooling and charging systems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John U Posted June 5, 2016 Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 I measured my truck over 1 1/4 back 6.5 but I have a power rack on my straight axle it has been on my truck for at least 10 years now no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruff1148kr Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 Just a question for all the guys on this thread that did a engine swap. It may help other who are planning. In my case I did a 360/727 with MMII and Puller electric fans, great cooing power on the fans real high cfm's engine temp is great but engine bay stays hot. Are you guys running with or without inner fenders? Just seams there's no way for heat to escape well if the air does not come thru the radiator there is no other path thru the grill because of the shrouding around. Engine temp never gets over 180 degrees but the bay gets hot enough to melt wires and make master cylinder super hot. Starting to worry about paint work ect. Let me know if there is something I missed or you did different. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 I don't have my inner fenders patterned out yet, am planning on putting some in. I have enough room to run a stock fan blade with the amount of setback I have and since it's not running yet, I have no idea how hot it will want to get. Your question is making me consider adding some louvers to the inner fenders when I do make them. It seems that there is as much room for airflow out and around the bottom as there is on any of the newer trucks that run V8's and all the air they get comes through the radiator opening as well. It also seems that the new cars and trucks draw air for combustion from OUTSIDE the engine compartment which may be something else to consider. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John U Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 Mine runs around 180 but yes it's hot under the hood I'm running without the back corners of the inner fenders that and I cut holes up near the top to let some of the heat out my air cleaner is in the front of the wheelwell 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruff1148kr Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 Like the louver idea, but I have got a lot of stuff mounted to those inner fenders. Ok so I'm not alone in thinking to gets too hot under the hood. I too thought that the air would exit better out the bottom back Those large brackets that mount on each side of the radiator would have been a good spot for hole or vents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 There is a rectangle plate in the grill that can be removed or opened for better air flow on the psgr side of the engine compartment...I knocked mine out when I thought I was having heating issues...turns out I just needed the resistor that came with the gauge installed...it said it wasn't needed on all systems, but apparently mine did, because checking with the laser thermometer showed me I was never getting as hot as the gauge read Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruff1148kr Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 thanks I'll lot at that does it just knock out can it be done with the grill on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John U Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 If you put holes in the core support then less air goes thru the radiator then it might over heat you need to get it out I've thought of putting 12 volt computer fans in the vent holes I cut in the upper rear of the inner wheel wells to exhaust the heat helping it to leave just a thought haven'tgot past the tthinking stage I'm old it takes time to get motivated it has vaporlocked from under hood heat cool outside truck at 175 but idling at a show in line bearly running then killed after half hour hood open started right up and ran fine one time thing but don't want it to happen again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 (edited) That knockout is for the freshair heater system. It's not quite a true knock out. A cutoff wheel will do a neater job. There's about 4 small sections where it's still attached and they're big enough and strong enough that beating them out may damage the surrounding metal. I took mine out, ground it down a bit around the edges and welded it back in flush, filled any unused holes, smoothed it wherever I could. Edited June 7, 2016 by Dave72dt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted June 7, 2016 Report Share Posted June 7, 2016 As stated, any air moving around the radiator will not go through the radiator, where it needs to be. Before doing much else I'd mount a thermometer under the hood and get an actual number for the air temp. I have heard of similar concerns; using small radiator mounted fans does not seem to move air well through the rest of the compartment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted June 7, 2016 Report Share Posted June 7, 2016 Going down the highway, there is enough air for the rad and the holes and plenty extra...cruising in town..the fan is doing all the work there, and any spots to get more air in or hot air out is a good thing. I have front mounted double 9" fans that push air through the rad as well if things get too warm for the smaller engine fan I had to use. Computer fans won't move much air, and likely won't survive the under hood abuse very long...I think in some cases it's a matter of really checking with a laser and seeing what's truly hot..or just feels that way to us Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albolton Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 (edited) just my opinion, but it would have to be REALLY hot under the hood to cause much of an issue, the whole bottom of the frame is open on these things, there is lots of air moving around. I have a 54 with a 360/727 combination, reasonably stout engine...12" fan pushing, not pulling. I installed an aluminum rad from a 57 chev, cut the stock rad mount of mine and it bolted right in, No engine fan, I beat on my truck and it runs at 180 all day., I've never had any issue with vapor lock or anything else. Edited June 21, 2016 by albolton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.