Well, I've done it!

[traveller816]

Well I've done it... I've place my order for an adaptor kit from Wilcap, I've bought a 700R4 to go in her too. I'll be going 12v at the same time and if I can just get the folks at Antiqueauto battery to answer my bloody emails I'll be able to buy one of their 12/6 volt batteries to run my six volt gauges/accessories off. To be honest every time I think of this project as a whole it overwhelms me and more than a few times I've considered shelving it and selling the car on without touching it. Can anyone recommend an alternator that'll take the wide belt pulley off my generator? I may be able to run a narrower belt but haven't looked at it too closely yet. Any hints gratefully recieved particularly on making the new prop and how to keep my speedometer working. Please come and join me on my little Facebook group called Fat Fender Ramblings, everything done to the car and the forthcoming pan European road trips will all be on there. Hopefully should be starting this project in about a months time give or take. Hoping to get all the bits together by then. My only concern is finding a prop that'll fit the 700R4 so I can make a complete one that will do the job. Not so easy in the UK.

[55 Fargo]

You can use a Mopar alt and regulator, just have a wide belt pulley installed at an auto electric shop. Or a GM 10SI 1 wire alt with a wide belt pulley, either you should be able to order from North American sources.

 

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/GM-Alternator-5-8-Inch-Wide-Alternator-Belt-Pulley-Plain,1868.html

 

https://alternatorparts.com/10si-all-in-one.html

Edited March 24, 2016 by Fargos-Go-Far

[Don Coatney]

Wide belt alternator pulleys are available from many vendors. I bought this one from Speedway Motors several years back.

 

[knuckleharley]

"My only concern is finding a prop that'll fit the 700R4 so I can make a complete one that will do the job. Not so easy in the UK."

 

I am assuming you are talking about a driveshaft. If that is true,look for a garage in your area that repairs big trucks like dump trucks. They drop their driveshafts fairly often due to big loads and spinning tires suddenly gaining traction,so every one I have ever seen builds and balances new drive shafts. Make  sure you get the right front yoke for the transmission and take it with you because a big truck repair shop in England is unlikely to have one. Also take the right u-joint for your rear with you so they can match up the rear of the new driveshaft. With those pieces and some measurements you give them,they can make and balance a new driveshaft for you.

[greg g]

I have a 700 r 4 in my Studebaker truck project.  There are some critical items to address to keep the trans from burning it self up in a quick minute.  There is a Throttle Valve Cable that must have certain geometry derived from the throttle linkage movement.  This cable determines shift points and internal pressure which determines how quickly the transmission shifts. You alsoshould look into an auxilliary transmission fluid cooler as these units produce considerable heat.  Another consideration is whether it is an early pre 1987 or later unit.  There is an internal governor gear, the early ones have a fiber gear assembly that is not very robust and tends to failure.  The later ones have are made of a plastic that has a longer life span.  These are available from Specialist parts shops for upgrade.  There is also an electrical connection that deals with the torque converter lock up. This is usually a circuit that is connected to the brake light switch, so that when brakes are applied the lock up is disengaged.  This circuit can be put through a toggle switch or a momentary switch and relay mounted to the shift lever which gives the driver control over when the lock up is engaged.  And you also need to find a spot to wire the neutral park safety switch, so you can't start the car withthe transmission in gear.  Wilcap should be able to supply you with the fitments and or the information to adress these items in your application.  As for the speedo, you should be able to have one made that meets the requirments of your installation.  Or there are now aftermarket units that derive a spped signal the same way a GPS unit does.

 

Unfortunately, I can not comment on how the unit works in my truck as I have not yet got it road worthy.  There are several sources of information on the web concerning the whys and wherefors of using the 700r4 in this typr of project.  

 

It is daunting but each of the areas you mention as concerning you can be overcome with patience, perserverence and lots of loose pocket money.....

 

I will go through my papers and documents and try to track down the websites that have the information on the work arounds for the trans.  I did have a local shop build me a drive shaft.  Mine has the universals that adapt the GM front half hardware to the U jint necessary to fit up to a ford 9 inch rear end.  So its is all doable.  Here is a start;

 

http://www.smokemup.com/tech/700r4.php

[traveller816]

Thanks guys, that's given me some good info. A friend of mine is sending me a driveshaft from the States so we will make up a compatible unit from the two. My box is an early one, 83 or 84, I've got a couple of lock up kits on my eBay watch list so I will probably get one of those. TVI cable already ordered, and I did do some reading up on setting it up but I'm still none the wiser! This is my only car so I'm hoping to get the main install done within a week and then worry about the details like speedo over time.

[greg g]

There is a test a transmission specialist can do that will assess the fluid pressure to assure it is within proper operational ranges for proper timing and quickness of shifts and down shifts.  Again heat it the number one bugaboo with these so a large fluid cooler is pretty inexpensive insurance as is checking that pressure before many miles go by.  Will be interested in your results, as I need aninspireational kick inthe butt to get mine finished and on the road.  I have a 3.73 rear axle with 28 3/3 inch diameter tires, so I am hoping for a fairly relaxed cruising rpm, and good fuel milage.  Good luck.

[falconvan]

Greg's exactly right; the TV cable on your trans needs to be adjusted exactly right or it will die in a short amount of time. On the last two 700r4s I had built I had this valve body installed which alleviates the problem. With this the cable only controls the shift points and eliminates the chance of the trans getting burned up from incorrect line pressure.

 

http://www.tciauto.com/tc/1987-92-gm-700r4-constant-pressure-valve-bodytmhtml

[knuckleharley]

Greg's exactly right; the TV cable on your trans needs to be adjusted exactly right or it will die in a short amount of time. On the last two 700r4s I had built I had this valve body installed which alleviates the problem. With this the cable only controls the shift points and eliminates the chance of the trans getting burned up from incorrect line pressure.

 

http://www.tciauto.com/tc/1987-92-gm-700r4-constant-pressure-valve-bodytmhtml

Hmmmm,I notice that is for 1987 and newer 700R4's. What about the 84-85 models,like mine?