2 New Questions for the '49 Chrys

[rb1949]

Projects that have 2 pieces seem to be a jinx, so here are 2 questions, with pictures.

With much poking, prodding, yanking and pulling, what is the secret trick for removing the wiper blade from the arm? Picked up new ones, but can't get the old one off. A 5mm bayonet mount into the blade assembly. Or???

Interior dome light, which is over the back seat. Trim, and a lens. Don't see that the lens pops out of the chrome trim piece. Nor does the trim piece want to pop loose. Didn't want to poke a hole in the headliner. All tips appreciated.

 

[55 Fargo]

The wiper blade arm should have a release tab, to push or pull to release wiper blade, the lense cover will pop off.

Get a shop manual, there should be some answers in it for these issues...just be careful and get acquainted with your car...

[Niel Hoback]

Some Anco and Trico blades come off by rotating them 90 degrees to the arm and unhooking it.

[Niel Hoback]

The Plymouth dome light comes off by unsnapping the stainless frame from the light housing. The lens stays in the stainless frame.

[rb1949]

The bayonet into the blade looks like its crimped on? No release tabs. (the replacement has a release tab). Ah ha, spotted a picture of the back side of the dome light. The trim ring is attached to a backing plate, which has a thingy that must clip into the housing. Will wiggle some more.

[rb1949]

After some hefty tugging, the dome light and wiper blade are still in place. Change strategy. Let's remove 2 screws from the door jam switch and see if there is power that far. If not, jump a hot wire there and see if the lamp comes on. Or, is it the bulb? Then try to back track wiring via the diagram to the power source. Trivial pursuit. The wiper arm is held to the shaft with a nut. Remove entire assembly, and take it back to the store that offers 'free install'??? Ha. (Just drive the car there??)  Since my assembly is still good, the easiest option is to just swap the wiper blade only, as a refill. But that's quite an expensive refill. ANCO has a part that appears to be a refill, but not sure from the pix. Hoping a part store could get them, to see it. Will post any updates about resolving the issues.

[_shel_ny]

Sorry for the delay. Sometimes people (read as I) put stuff where it is hard to locate especially after winter storage.

 

 

 

 

These pics will make it so simple that you will say "doh"

 

I think yours may be more difficult to remove, as I believe, and I may be wrong, but I believe yours is mounted backwards making it difficult to see the release point.

 

Pic 1, profile of blade shows the spot where the wiper arm pin locks in.

 

 

Pic 2,   shows the part that must be pushed down to allow the release of the pin on the arm.

            the blade must be moved toward the clip. On mine---to the left.  On yours--- to the right as it is mounted opposite of mine.

 

 

 

Pic 3,  the arm pin.

[_shel_ny]

Dome light. 

 

Not sure about your Chrysler, but you may find that the door post switch is a ground point and will only have power coming to it if the power has already passed through a good bulb and is waiting for a completion of the circuit at some point.

 

Some Chrysler owners may chime in to confirm or poo-poo that theory.

 

Some makes/models are wired that way, some are not.

Edited March 13, 2016 by shel_ny

[_shel_ny]

...

Edited March 11, 2016 by shel_ny

[_shel_ny]

Pic 1,  my install.

 

Pic 2, your install. ( looks better)

 

Will probably work either way.

 

As they are adjustable blades, the direction direction mounted will change the distance that the sliding adjustment positions the wiper blade on the glass.

[rb1949]

Shel ...... "duh". Good pix. Got to believe that the blade mounts to the arm via that 'pin' (not the bayonet), and then yes, mine appear to be backwards. That 'release hole' is there, but hard to get to, which should allow it to be removed. The blade only rocks 30 degrees. If it tilted 90, pushing that release would be easy. Will find a way to push it with a bent tool. But first, thanks for the refill numbers. Both those places said "no refills"?? That will be the preferred item. I guess no one has found a blade assembly replacement that would fit, and be able to use modern refills??

DOME LAMP: Had power at jam switch. Back to the lamp. An extremely tight fit, some pulling and poking with a screwdriver, the trim/lens popped off. HA, NO BULB!!  Unscrewed the metal housing, and the 2 wires screwed to the socket. Had power there, great. The socket may be questionable. Will take the housing/socket to the store to 1) find & test a bulb, or 2) replace the socket/bulb. Getting closer on both issues. More to come.

[_shel_ny]

...

Edited March 11, 2016 by shel_ny

[rb1949]

Shel, those numbers you provided are for the blade assembly replacement, which is what I have. My hunt was for the blade refill. Obsolete. As far as the dome, nobody carries the "88" bulb. So will figure out how to change the socket.

[Dodgeb4ya]

1st click on Google....http://www.bulbtown.com/88_Miniature_Bulb_Ba15d_Base_p/88.htm

Those bulbs are still available.

[dale]

Carefull with the lenz if its plastic.. They are very brittle.

[rb1949]

OK, going to swap the rubber insert on the wipers and be done with it. Although an expensive refill. Cleaned the dome light socket and got a bulb, tested OK. Plugged in wires. Only comes on when opening rear driver side door (but that's good). Will check rear pass door switch. But raises a new question. Since the dome light is over the rear seat, does it only activate when the REAR doors are open?? The front has a wimpy, dim flush mounted "map light" under the dash, which I haven't checked yet. Maybe the front doors only activate that?? (Or, both??) More checking/testing to do. The driver door is missing the switch, so need to fabricate a replacement (original not needed). And probably come up with something to create more light in the front. Not done yet.

[casper50]

there are lots of those switches on ebay.  cheap

 

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=door+light+switch&_ftrt=901&_sop=10&_sadis=200&_dmd=1&_geositeid=0&_osacat=0&LH_SALE_CURRENCY=0&_ftrv=1&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xantique+dome+light+switch.TRS0&_nkw=antique+dome+light+switch&_sacat=0

 

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=antique+dome+light+switch&_ftrt=901&_sop=10&_sadis=200&_geositeid=0&_dmd=1&_osacat=0&LH_SALE_CURRENCY=0&_ftrv=1&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xvintage+dome+light+switch.TRS0&_nkw=vintage+dome+light+switch&_sacat=0

Edited March 12, 2016 by casper50

[Don Coatney]

My P-15 has a light switch on the pillar drivers side. I bought this new replacement switch from Neil Riddle several years ago.

 

[rb1949]

Bypassed rear pass door switch, and lamp works. Another switch on the list. The button must recess flush to the jam. Lamp did not come on via front pass door. That 'map light' is nothing but a round plastic lens, with a bulb behind it. Ha, not enough light to see your feet! But, bulb was also kaput. Didn't remove the fixture/socket to see if it had power via the front door switch. Ideas still floating for better lighting. Would not like a pillar switch for manual on/off. Opened glove box door. HA, no box!! Yet another project. And a lamp, that didn't work. Did pick up that tiny bulb, and have a light. Got chilly, so back in the garage and done for the day. Updates when possible.

[DJ194950]

Most Mopar this this age had full time "hot" to the bulbs and the switches just added to the ground wire to the light/lights. The switches were grounded by their mounting and a wire to the lamp to make them work. many other makes/brands/years  did them the same.

[rb1949]

Thanks, I did notice the dome light had power. Diagram says all lights grounded, EXCEPT dome. From the schematic, it looks like ONLY the rear doors operate the dome, not the front switches. Front only has that goofy dim map light. So if there is power to that socket via the front switches, there is the wire I need to add more lighting. (There is power to the switch, that's good) Now to hunt for a not too obnoxious 6V lamp(s) to mount somewhere. No, I'm not going to attempt to run wires or mount a front dome light! Maybe even add "delayed off" after the door is closed. Might as well add a trunk light. Lots of room in there to lose stuff in the dark. Keep forgetting to look if it had an underhood lamp. Another post coming with a few more issues needing advice. Y'all experience is quite helpful.

[rb1949]

Some progress. Picked up perfect jamb switches local. Fabricating a new plate to mount them, which screws to the jamb and covers the hole. Rear dome challenge about complete. Found a bulb for the map light (1129), but not successful getting it to light via the front door switches. No big deal, have wires with power, but still undecided on how to illuminate the front. Ha, the trunk already had a lamp, and yet another bulb issue. Found a bulb, tested OK in the socket. But the mercury tilt switch must be defective. Again no big deal, wire in a toggle switch. My other post of 2 new challenges is on hold yet. And temp will be dropping for another week, so won't be out there much. Did remove, clean and repaint that front metal radiator "shroud", it covers the big horns. Wow, those horns are 21" & 17" long!

How's this for Mr. Trivia. Via pictures, spotted something I didn't have. There's a Chrysler emblem in the front bumper guard. Is it metal, or plastic? Official Chrysler Red? Probably quite rare, and expensive. Heck with it, I made one to fill the hole. Good enough for a driver. Look at the pix, above the license plate. By the way, that style of Historic Plate was first issued by AZ in 1977. The first ones were Copper, then they switched to copper plated steel. I have the solid copper one. Cool.

[_shel_ny]

Dash knob controlled the map light on my 48. Not sure if 49 has a knob to do that.

[rb1949]

Pretty sure it's the jamb switch, no extra knob for the map light. But, flashback thinking ---- on older cars, didn't the park/headlight switch also rotate CCW, to turn on the interior light when the door is closed? Playing with some LED bulbs as an option. Good entertainment.

[Dodgeb4ya]

On the upper line Chryslers  (NewYorker/Imperial and Town and Country)  you turn the map/Instruments light knob to the left and the map lights turn on (Rt &Left).

The rear two 1/4 panel  lights also come on on the hardtop and converts. Plenty of lighting.

Edited March 18, 2016 by Dodgeb4ya