How do you rotate the engine while adjusting timing or valves?

[Uncle-Pekka]

Simple basic question: How do you rotate the engine while adjusting timing or valves? There is no crank, nor does it turn when pushing due to the fluid drive. I have been pulling from the fan belt, but it does not always work and is quite hard to keep the belt tight enough...

Is there a simple trick to know?

[Ed Griffin]

One quick question because I dont understand your question. What do you mean "There is no crank?" Are you saying you have no battery hooked up to turn the motor over or you do and it just has no power at all....please clarify because someone will as the same thing. If you do have power and could turn the motor over from the starter button inside then you could use a remote starter switch hooked to your solinoid while working under the hood.

[JIPJOBXX]

First of all remove all the spark plugs if you haven't done that yet. I really don't have other answers for your question as the fan is the only object that you can pull on to rotate the engine. I know what you mean by no crank handle to use on front of crank shaft. Good luck maybe use a little WD40 in the cylinders to lubricate the piston area might help. Jon:cool:

[JIPJOBXX]

Hay here's an idea if you can get some air pressure to the cylinders try it that way. This would mean you might haft to make an adapter to fit in your spark plug hole but that should work.

[TodFitch]

For what its worth, on my 1933 I pop off the crank hole cover and slide in the hand crank.

If you have the spark plugs removed and the transmission in neutral you should be able to turn the engine over using the fan blades.

[Don Coatney]

You can do both of these procedures (timing and valve adjustment) with the engine running.

[1just4don]

Turning the fan blades with your hand is the ONLY way I know of,,,unless the motor is running or starter working. You DO wanna make sure the switch is off, coil wire pulled, something, otherwise might have sore fingers. usually you can always rotate with the fan blades IF you pull with one hand and push the belt with the other so it stays tight enough to grip. You can carefully use a cheater too. IF you cant rotate it that way something is pretty wrong inside. It gets to be easier the more you do it!!

If you are trying to adjust the timing,,,running is the BEST way with a timing light on the mark.

[TodFitch]

<snip> If you are trying to adjust the timing,,,running is the BEST way with a timing light on the mark.

And per the manual (and DonC) you are supposed to adjust the valves with the engine running too. My skin is too tender to do it bare handed and with gloves I am too ham fisted, so I cheat and do it with the engine hot but off.

[Uncle-Pekka]

Ok, based on the above my conclusion is, there is no hidden trick or special tool to rotate by the crankshaft pulley or flywheel (=fluid drive housing)...

I was actually refering to a situation to adjust static timing, engine not runnable, and valve clearance setting. By "no crank", I meant that there is no hand crank lever, nor a hole in the end of the shaft in the D24 engine (what I find odd in a car with fluid drive)

I keep asking these stupid questions, because I have no previous experience on the flathead six and the shop manual I ordered in March is still lost with the freight forwarder along with numerous spare parts...

However, I thank you all once again and keep the plugs off while working with the fan belt

[Ed Griffin]

Ok, based on the above my conclusion is, there is no hidden trick or special tool to rotate by the crankshaft pulley or flywheel (=fluid drive housing)...

I was actually refering to a situation to adjust static timing, engine not runnable, and valve clearance setting. By "no crank", I meant that there is no hand crank lever, nor a hole in the end of the shaft in the D24 engine (what I find odd in a car with fluid drive)

I keep asking these stupid questions, because I have no previous experience on the flathead six and the shop manual I ordered in March is still lost with the freight forwarder along with numerous spare parts...

However, I thank you all once again and keep the plugs off while working with the fan belt

First thing, there is no stupid question if you are trying to learn something no matter how simple it may sound. Keep in mind that if you had not asked, someone out there may have wanted to or may have asked before and has forgotton. Dont be afraid to ask because even those like me that have done this several times can forget the small details you get from the answers provided and can be reminded by those with the correct and additional answers. Even provided with the manual you can get an answer from those who may know an extra trick or two not provided with any manual so never worry about asking something here.

One thing we must all never forget. All that come here have differant backgrounds. Not all that come here are master mechanics, shade tree mechanics or even mechanics at all. Some ask questions so they can do things themselves, maybe for the first time, some ask just for a second opinion and some ask to avoid asking the wrong questions when they want a shop to do the repairs or whatever it may be. For whatever reason you ask for help on this forum one thing you will find is there are many people willing to lend a hand. That is what has held this forum together for so long and I hope it continues this way for many yrs to come.

Back to your question. For some reason you say you have to use the fan pulley to move your crank. All suggestions have been good ones in that situation. Another way would be to remove the fan and pully, use the proper size socket and a long socket wrench like a breaker bar and turn the crank shaft this way. This is much easier done with the engine out or at least the radiator removed. If the motor is still in the car then the questions that come to me are why can you not provide power to the engine so that you can rotate the crank with a remote switch. You can turn the engine over without it running and still find the TDC by watching your timing light hit the timing mark on your bottom pulley/ harmonic balancer while turning your ditributer to align the mark with the pointer tab thats mounted to the front just above. Yes it may not be as bright as if the engine were running but it is still visible enough to to the same job as if it were running.

As for setting your valves first I find the best way to locate TDC by using the method decribed by feeling the #1 plug hole begin to blow your finger out and then moving the crank on up to the TDC mark.

Another good thing about this forum is if I have mislead you in my description or procedure usually some one will chime in and correct me which is great to me because then I've learned something as well. Good luck and keep us "in tune" with your progress or setback. Ed

[Normspeed]

I'm just a shade tree boy and proud of it and I agree, there are no dumb questions here. Never saw such a bunch for their eagerness to share what we know of these fine old cars.

The international nature of the group is really interesting. It must be quite a challenge to locate what you need for your vintage Mopar, then have to deal with international shipping, customs, tariffs, etc. It takes dedication!

[Jim Saraceno]

On my 35, I can get a socket on the crank pulley nut then add several extensions through the front grill to get a ratchet on it. That may not be feasible on your car though.