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Posted

I need a fuel gage sender unit and a cylinder head temp sender.

 

First the fuel gauge:  I had the gas tank redone by Gas Tank Renu (which I highly recommend!) but the mounting flange for the sender unit was too far gone so they cut it out and welded in a generic 5 hole mount.  I now need to get a new sender unit.  There are several "generic" 6V sender units available but a company that rebuilds ours indicated that there is something special about the output of the sender for our gages.  Anyone here familiar with the input needed at the gage in the dash for it to read correctly?

 

Second the cylinder head temp sensor:  We damaged the sensor that screws into the head when we pulled the head.  I've been quoted $225 to rebuild the broken unit and told that the gauge/capillary tube... is a single assembly.  Has anyone tried converting this to an electronic gage with the stock gauge face or similar modification to get away from the capillary tube design? 

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Posted

I don't have the exact specs handy, but as I recall the fuel sender is a simple single wire, variable resistance unit with a range of 10 - 80 ohms. The lower resistance would be with the arm in "full" position. It shouldn't be too difficult to find one that would work with your modified mount.

 

The capillary tube for your temp gauge can be repaired with off the shelf parts. Tod Fitch has a good "How-to" write up on his web site. http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge

Posted

Thanks Merle!  My son is 14 and is really digging into this project.  The temp gauge repair will be a great learning experience for him. 

Posted

If you don't repair the temp gauge yourself you could do what I did.

I sent mine to B1BKeven,a member here, for repair. Send him a personal message for a quote.

In just a little over a week I had it back in my hands with a new tube and sending unit for less than $100. 

Highly recommended !!!

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Posted

When I had my gas tank refurbished for my '53 Dodge truck, I ordered a DatCon sending unit - don't.  Poor construction and never worked.

 

Next, on the advice of others on here and the HAMB, I ordered one from Tanks, Inc.  Easy to install  (before the tank is installed) and it works.  The ohms are 10-73

on it (their TAN-ORG).  I don't have my truck to the point where I can test just how accurate it is at this time, but I know it is in the ball park.

 

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=276/category_id=62/mode=prod/prd276.htm

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Posted

When I had my gas tank refurbished for my '53 Dodge truck, I ordered a DatCon sending unit - don't.  Poor construction and never worked.

 

Next, on the advice of others on here and the HAMB, I ordered one from Tanks, Inc.  Easy to install  (before the tank is installed) and it works.  The ohms are 10-73

on it (their TAN-ORG).  I don't have my truck to the point where I can test just how accurate it is at this time, but I know it is in the ball park.

 

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=276/category_id=62/mode=prod/prd276.htm

Thanks,  I'll give that a try.

Posted

a simple single wire, variable resistance unit with a range of 10 - 80 ohms. The lower resistance would be with the arm in "full" position.

this is the key part, last time I looked at the generic cheap ones they had the correct range but were backwards,higher resistance is full. Which I did use for while, it's fun to watch the wife as we drove around on "empty" which was full.

Posted

this is the key part, last time I looked at the generic cheap ones they had the correct range but were backwards,higher resistance is full. Which I did use for while, it's fun to watch the wife as we drove around on "empty" which was full.

The last ones I played with were such that I could reverse the float arm to make it work the way I wanted.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

When I had my gas tank refurbished for my '53 Dodge truck, I ordered a DatCon sending unit - don't.  Poor construction and never worked.

 

Next, on the advice of others on here and the HAMB, I ordered one from Tanks, Inc.  Easy to install  (before the tank is installed) and it works.  The ohms are 10-73

on it (their TAN-ORG).  I don't have my truck to the point where I can test just how accurate it is at this time, but I know it is in the ball park.

 

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=276/category_id=62/mode=prod/prd276.htm

 

Thanks,  I'll give that a try.

Success.  I bought the TAN-ORG you suggested.  Installed it per the instructions (no need to reverse the float).  At empty it reads 80ish ohm and 10ish ohm at full.  I confirmed that this is correct for my gauge.  Thanks everyone!

 

 

Edited by my48stake
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