B1B vs B2B electrical system

[JPP]

Hi, New tot he forum, just picked up a B2B-1/2 ton, 1950.  New to build new wiring harness, how different is the B2B from the wiring harness described on the web site for the B1B.  The one thing I noticed is that my fuel tank has two leads coming from it, anything else?  Thanks

[Dodgeb4ya]

No B1 or B2 2WD trucks use a 2 wire fuel sender.

[Bobacuda]

The wire from my taillights was taped to the wire from my fuel gage.  Maybe that is what you are looking at.

 

I took lots of photos and then I took the wiring off of my truck (B4B) by harness, labeling the end of each wire (freezer tape and sharpie).  I stretched out and mounted the wiring harnesses on 2 x 4' pieces of 1/4" plywood.  Then I got the wiring diagram from the technical archives on this website.  Pulled out the spiral and the tape measure and began to measure and record the length of each wire and the type of connector on each end.  The wiring diagram gave me the color code and gage of the wire.

 

Once I had all of this, I totaled up what I needed and I ordered wire and connectors from Rhode Island Wires (without the directional signal switch, about $220).  They sell ready made, just hook them up correct harnesses, but it will cost you about $750 - and they may not have all of the wires you need, you will have to ask them or send them yours so they can copy them.

 

I built one harness at a time, I would strip back the tape to make sure the color code and gage was correct, then I cut a new wire, soldered the ends of the wire, slipped about 1" of shrink tube on each end, crushed the appropriate metal connector (not insulated) on, then soldered the crushed connector in place (so they won't pull loose over time), pulled up the shrink tube and insulated the connection.  Once I had all the wires, I used wire ties to hold everything on the new harness to match the length on the old harness and wrapped the new harness with tape to the appropriate length.  Use masking tape and the sharpie to label your new wires so you know where to connect them.  I still had my originals to refer to whenever I got lost or frustrated.

 

This took me about 2 weeks because it was cold as hell in my shed at the time and I only had weekends and a few early evenings to do it.  Hooking it all back up went fast.  However, everything is working and I have been told by those that have seen it (right now, just family members) that it looks great...and original. 

 

The most frustrating part was connecting to the light and ignition switch simply because there is a lot going on in a small space.  Take real good notes on those switches and your gages.  I wished I had taken more photos, but I thought I would remember everything...  Putting the electrical tape on the new harness is easier with two other people holding the wires while you wrap, but all of you will get sick of that job fairly quickly.

[pflaming]

I have wired my B3B twice, pre fire and post fire. Never again. I bought a EZ wiringharnessfor 185.00. Well worth the money in my opinion. After my experiences, I would never buy a car that did not have a professional harness and I will not sell this truck as is even though it is now correct. Jm2 cw.

[DJ194950]

I have wired my B3B twice, pre fire and post fire. Never again. I bought a EZ wiringharnessfor 185.00. Well worth the money in my opinion. After my experiences, I would never buy a car that did not have a professional harness and I will not sell this truck as is even though it is now correct. Jm2 cw.

 

Example of using aftermarket wiring- 12 volt though.

 

[Bobacuda]

JPP -

If I am not mistaken, the EZ harness and others like it are only for 12 volt systems.  My truck is still 6 volt.  With a 6 volt harness I can change to 12 volts without any wiring issues.  If you wire your truck for 12 volts, you will not be able to switch back to 6 volt without risking melted wires and a roasted truck.