46Ply Posted October 17, 2015 Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 Two problems. Radiator shop tells me it can't be repaired and needs a new core. $215! But before I commit to doing that I need to fix a slight bend in the inlet tube. It's difficult to get it through the housing and then positioned properly when I do. So, how do I correct the alignment of the inlet and outlet tubes to center on the holes in the housing? The inlet tube appears to be where the problem is, and it does have a small crimp or two in it, and also has had a small patch put on it sometime in the past. And, I'm still wondering who made this heater. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soth122003 Posted October 17, 2015 Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 46Ply, Couple of questions. 1. What is the problem with the core? Does it leak or is there no flow? 2. Are there any leaks on the inlet or outlet pipes? If you have no flow, I would suggest using a 50/50 mix of CLR and of hot water in the core. then cap the tubes and let is set for 10 minutes to a side, i.e. top, bottom, left, right, front face and back face. Then flush with warm water. repeat as required. (That's how I cleaned my original radiator, when the shop said it was bad). As far as the inlet pipe, it's made of hard copper right? Just hold the top part at the core and apply light to moderate pressure to straighten out the slight bend. A light touch is usually all that is required. You could also use a ratchet handle, stick in the tube and bend to the required direction. Joe Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46Ply Posted October 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 Thanks Joe, All I can tell you is that the radiator shop said it couldn't be repaired, and would leak again if I use it. They want to install a new core. It was in the car when I got it, but the outlet hose was plugged. I bought a shutoff valve, connected it and it did produce heat, but the fan was rattling, so I decided to take it out, correct the rattle and paint the housing, clean it up, etc. And it does show signs of past leakage. The previous owner had the car for some long time and the heater sat with coolant in it but was never circulating. I drained it and the coolant was a little dark. I haven't tried anything in the way of cleaning it or checking the circulation, given it shows signs of corrosion on the core and some rust on the inside of the housing where it has leaked in the past. Wonder if it's worth a shot to try and clean it up and check the flow? As for the bent tube it will go back together the way it is, but the inlet and outlet don't fit the openings in the housing or the firewall properly. And I've tried to straighten it, but not aggressively, afraid I would make it worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46Ply Posted October 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 Update... I cleaned the core with CLR and hot water as suggested. Then I submerged it in a bucket of water and blew compressed air in one tube as I held the other tube shut. I do have one small leak in the last row. The shop tells me these can't be repaired. Does anyone know otherwise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdoland Posted October 17, 2015 Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 I'm not a doctor, but I play one on TV. Get a 2nd opinion and call me in the morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonaldSmith Posted October 17, 2015 Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 (edited) Some idiot ran a screw into my heater core when I was trying to mount something. I removed some fins at the leak and soldered the hole closed. The core hasn't leaked since. Of course, these postwar Mopars do not have a pressurized cooling system. The radiator shop is used to pressurized systems and may not want to try a repair that might fail. Besides, why pass up a quick $215? Edited October 17, 2015 by DonaldSmith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46Ply Posted October 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2015 Thanks boys, that's what I was thinking. I told them it only holds 5 lb. pressure when I took it in there. Now, all I have to do is find some one who will fix that pinhole. If I was any good at all in soldering I'd plug it up myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Haymond Posted October 18, 2015 Report Share Posted October 18, 2015 With winter coming on, consider the mess and panic experience of a leaking or burst heater core inside the car. Mine happened in a Starbucks drive through, third in line with no way to escape. It quickly steamed up the windows and leaked heavily on the floor and then out the door. I routed one of the heater hoses in a short circuit loop back to the engine as a roadside repair. Maybe the price of a new core would be worth the peace of mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soth122003 Posted October 18, 2015 Report Share Posted October 18, 2015 Hey 46Ply, If it is just a small pinhole, you could try a leak stop treatment. However since you have it out, like Donald Smith says, trim the fins around the hole, clean the area well, use soldering flux on the hole and surrounding area, use a soldering iron to heat the hole and area around it and apply a small bit of solder, when it melts pull the iron away, let cool, then using your air supply leak test it again. If it still leaks you can try again or have someone do it for you. It's surprisingly easy to do. And like you said it's a zero pressure system. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46Ply Posted October 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 Heater repaired. Yea, I bit the bullet and bought a new core. Gave it a paint job while I was at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted October 30, 2015 Report Share Posted October 30, 2015 I have a . . . . . . Might consider it. . . Either post a classified ad or contact the individual via personal message. Do not post items for sale in the general forum area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldDad67 Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Hey 46Ply, If it is just a small pinhole, you could try a leak stop treatment. However since you have it out, like Donald Smith says, trim the fins around the hole, clean the area well, use soldering flux on the hole and surrounding area, use a soldering iron to heat the hole and area around it and apply a small bit of solder, when it melts pull the iron away, let cool, then using your air supply leak test it again. If it still leaks you can try again or have someone do it for you. It's surprisingly easy to do. And like you said it's a zero pressure system. Joe You can also buy a special epoxy that is used in freezer's and fridge's. An appliance supply has this epoxy that is used to attach copper lines to aluminum evaporators and condenser's. The first time I used it was when a tech was installing a winch on the front of a Jeep and slipped with the power drill that poked a hole in the A/C condenser. We tried the epoxy and it did the trick. Just another approach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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