dalewalt Posted August 4, 2015 Report Share Posted August 4, 2015 Hi, I hope someone can help. I'm trying to restore a 1940 P9 that was sitting for about 20 years without being started. The engine is seized, as I'm sure you've guessed. I've tried putting many different fluids in the cylinders (PB Blaster, Marvel, ATF, etc) without any luck. My next step is to remove the head on it. I've removed the engine and I'd *like* to put it on an engine stand in order to work on it, but cannot get the engine stand arms to fit on the flywheel housing. I tried taking the flywheel housing off, but after removing the bolts, it looks like there are pins that are still holding it on. Do I need to remove the flywheel? (If so, any tips?) The engine was *so* frozen that when I put a pipe wrench on the bolt on the end of the crankshaft, the bolt stripped. Any help is appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P15-D24 Posted August 4, 2015 Report Share Posted August 4, 2015 Two 1/2" alignment dowels, just drive them out with a punch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted August 4, 2015 Report Share Posted August 4, 2015 The flywheel and bell housing must be removed in order to bolt the engine to an engine stand. Once the flywheel has been removed there is no need to drive out the alignment dowel pins as the bell housing can be removed with them in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted August 4, 2015 Report Share Posted August 4, 2015 Are all the pressure plate bolts accessible if the engine won't turn over? I'm sure it and the disc have to come out to get to the flywheel bolts. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted August 4, 2015 Report Share Posted August 4, 2015 Are all the pressure plate bolts accessible if the engine won't turn over? I'm sure it and the disc have to come out to get to the flywheel bolts. Good point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted August 4, 2015 Report Share Posted August 4, 2015 On my engine, with a Fluid Drive coupler, I could spin the clutch to get it off, but couldn't rotate the crankshaft to remove the FD nuts. I ended up laying the engine on it's side, on a work bench, and removed the crankshaft out the bottom with the FD attached. Then I could separate the two. Also, while it was laying there on it's side I was able to access the top and bottom with a block of wood and a large hammer to work the pistons down, sand out the rust rings, and drive them up and out. My next task was to remove the cam with all valves also seized into place. With a large Channel-Lock pliers on the cam sprocket I gradually worked the cam back and forth until all valves were in the raised position and I could rotate the cam freely. I could then remove the cam and tappets and proceeded to drive the valves out with a punch from the bottom. As you can guess this engine was in rough shape. The head was off and the cylinders were filled with oil/water/gunk mix when I got the truck. Once I got it all disassembled I took it to an engine shop and they were able to clean up the bores at .030" over, milled the block deck and head, and installed all new valve seats and guides. it now runs like a champ. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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