thebeebe5 Posted July 25, 2015 Report Posted July 25, 2015 (edited) The original (I think) manifold was rotted and cracked horribly. Got everything apart, and while I was at it I repainted the valve cover plates and adjusted the valves. Found the greatest lash at .032" and the smallest lash at .024"!!! Hoping I can tell a difference when it's back together and running.... I just set them to the spec outlined in the service manual for cold lash. Had a couple of the brass nuts that were in poor condition to start with, and ended up having to sub a regular steel nut for one that had stripped upon reinstall, and the two low exhaust nuts that anchor the bottom of the double port were missing altogether, so steel nuts were installed. Is it essential that these be replaced with brass? The end exhaust flanges were bolted on with steel nuts and thick brass washers.... One fly in the ointment for completion tomorrow.... The carb base gasket Napa sold me fits a larger carb base.... Can anyone provide a part number so I can hunt through Phoenix tomorrow and see if I can locate one here in the valley? Would be nice to drive the car home from the shop and not leave it in the boss' way. I've attached a picture of the incorrect carb base gasket. I see the packages says fits 218, but I think my motor is a 201. A few pics from the day: Edited July 25, 2015 by thebeebe5 Quote
Andydodge Posted July 25, 2015 Report Posted July 25, 2015 (edited) The reason for the dissimilar metals with the nuts is so that you can easily undo them again, steel nuts on a steel bolt against a steel exhaust manifold will be very hard to undo next time.....if you can't find a brass nut then get some neverseize or some sort of anti gall paste on the thread......plumbing supply or truck/farm places may have Neverseize.......its a copper based compound and worth chasing up......you could get away with using that gasket if you ellongated the mounting holes on both sides to allow it to sit centred on the intake, at least as a temporary measure or even get a piece of heavy cardboard or gasket paper and make a gasket yourself.......andyd Edited July 25, 2015 by Andydodge Quote
thebeebe5 Posted July 25, 2015 Author Report Posted July 25, 2015 Thanks AndyD. Have buckets of neverseize here. Didn't know if the brass was to prevent overtightening of the pieces to prevent breakage or not. And I'll definitely try that trick with this gasket if I can't get my hands on the proper one on my way into work. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 25, 2015 Report Posted July 25, 2015 (edited) You installed the four end cone nuts backwards against the thick countersunk brass washers. You need to turn them around Some pix.... Edited July 25, 2015 by Dodgeb4ya Quote
TodFitch Posted July 25, 2015 Report Posted July 25, 2015 Stripping the nuts while putting them on suggest that perhaps too much torque was applied. Only 15 to 20 ft-lbs is called for. The manifold is long enough and changes temperature enough that it must be allowed to move with respect to the engine block as it expands and contracts. Get the manifold fasteners too tight and you may end up with a cracked exhaust manifold. Quote
thebeebe5 Posted July 25, 2015 Author Report Posted July 25, 2015 You installed the four end cone nuts backwards against the thick countersunk brass washers. You need to turn them around Some pix.... good to know... I just took pictures before disassembly and reinstalled the way they came off. I'll fix them some time. It's all done now and took it for a drive. Sounds wonderfully quiet...... 1 Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted July 25, 2015 Report Posted July 25, 2015 Those tapered nuts with the groves act as lock nuts as they are drawn into the conical washers . If they were mine , I would change them around soon . It won't take much time . Quote
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