Well I've gone and done it (broke my first part)

[Tatback]

Kinda my fault kinda the cars fault lol...

While trying to take the head off I proceeded to TRY and remove the temperature sender... Well it snapped.

[Tatback]

Now I did find one for a 46-48 Plymouth and the gauge is the same but the nut behind the sensor bulb is slightly different.

Will this make a difference?

You can see my "nut" in the third picture which has 4 sides and this is the one I found...

[Don Coatney]

So goggle how to fix it. It is repairable.

[Tatback]

I did and even found a link on here I believe from a few years ago.... Seems a little out of my league right now. Well that and I won't know how accurate it will be after the repair. This car is new to me and I don't know how hot it runs yet since I really haven't had the chance to drive it. Kinda nervous repairing it myself and not knowing exactly how hot the engine is.

[TodFitch]

I did and even found a link on here I believe from a few years ago.... Seems a little out of my league right now. Well that and I won't know how accurate it will be after the repair. This car is new to me and I don't know how hot it runs yet since I really haven't had the chance to drive it. Kinda nervous repairing it myself and not knowing exactly how hot the engine is.

I guess Don has an aversion to linking to my repair page.

 

As long as the system has enough ether in it, then the pressure is directly related to temperature. And the dash unit is basically a pressure gauge. So a repair will leave it as accurate or inaccurate as the dash unit was before you broke the capillary tubing.

 

If you have done any type of electrical soldering and you have a high enough wattage soldering iron, the fix is actually pretty easy.

 

http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge

[Tatback]

That's actually the link I was referring too, I even saved it.... I've a very good step by step process.

I'm probably just not confident enough in my skills having never done that before or anything close to it. Soldered a few things here and there.

[Jerry Roberts]

The nut on the new replacement gauge will work just fine . Also , Keven in Washington state can repair your old gauge for you , look in the classified under services offered . A cheap aftermarket gauge from the auto parts store will get you by in the mean time . 

[Don Coatney]

I guess Don has an aversion to linking to my repair page.

 

 

Tod, no aversion! I have posted your link many times and it comes up early on my Google searches. However I have not saved it to my favorites and more importantly I did not find it when I looked in the resources section of this webpage???? Your speed calculator that I also highly recommend should also be posted in the resources section of this webpage!!!!! My apologies If both are posted here and I did not find them. I thank you for your terrific contributions to this forum and to this community.

[RobertKB]

I have used gauges with both kind of nuts and it makes no difference which one the unit has. Gauges are all pretty much the same and just the dial is different. Not sure if the little hand is the same or not on the different Mopar makes.

[Tatback]

Thank you for all the help, I got in touch with Kevin in Washington and I will be sending it to him.

[Jerry Roberts]

That freeze plug in the cylinder head can be removed to help remove the ether bulb without breakage in the future . That freeze plug is an odd size and might be a little hard to find though . 

[RobertKB]

Might I also recommend not working with a ring on. Obviously you can damage the ring with tools and handling parts. More importantly, if you make contact with something electrical it can act as a conductor and get very hot very quickly. I have heard of people burning their finger to the bone in an instant.

[Lloyd]

Not sure Im seeing this correctly. Isnt the one that broke the old one? Remove the temperature bulb from the larger nut, clean & install the larger nut in the head, slide the new bulb in and tighten the nut behind it. Mine original broke as well when I tried to remove it, bought another on eBay and replaced it.

Unless you just want to repair the old one.

 

Question is, is there anything that can be put on the bulb prior to install to help keep it from getting stuck up in there? Antifreeze has some corrosion inhinbitors.

Edited July 12, 2015 by Lloyd

[Tom Skinner]

Gents,

My question also is as Lloyd's above. Obviously PB Blaster, days before to remove it, then more PB to loosen it away.

When putting back on maybe Teflon Tape on the Threads or Anti Seize compound on the Threads?

I think if it is going to break - sometimes it is going to break - in other words - maybe it was just ready to go.

[Jerry Roberts]

From what I have seen , it isn't the threads that get stuck . It is the bulb itself that gets stuck in the center of the gland nut . Buildup accumulates around the bulb . 

[Tatback]

Jerry, that's exactly what happened. The bulb became stuck. Once I got the bulb and nut out of the head it took a couple of swift whacks on my hand to get the bulb out.