1952B3b23 Posted May 16, 2015 Author Report Posted May 16, 2015 Thanks a lot to everyone that has posted about removing the knobs. I had seen that slot on the bottom of the knob but had no idea I needed to insert a screwdriver to remove. I thought they where just threaded on but when I started twisting and got nothing I figured I'd better ask before breaking something. The tool that some of you have mentioned looks like it would be handy for my 52 dodge pick up truck switches/cables. The ones on my coupe don't look like they would be removable by that tool. They don't have the two slots for the prongs of the tool to engage in. I will post a pic of what mine look like. Again thanks for all the help, -Chris Quote
Roadkingcoupe Posted May 18, 2015 Report Posted May 18, 2015 The ones on my coupe don't look like they would be removable by that tool. They don't have the two slots for the prongs of the tool to engage in. I will post a pic of what mine look like. 1941 Plymouth on the left 1939 Plymouth on the right different contour and the slots are narrower on the 1939 I have not needed a tool to remove the bezel as it is threaded and once the knob is off just hold the bezel and gently turn the switch to get it started. Then simply rotate the the bezel counter-clockwise and.....voila! Quote
1952B3b23 Posted May 19, 2015 Author Report Posted May 19, 2015 Yup that's exactly what the bezel looks like on my car. Thanks for adding the pic Roadkingcoupe. Thank you for the compliment on the shock mounts fish. Quote
1952B3b23 Posted July 12, 2015 Author Report Posted July 12, 2015 I finally had some time to make some progress on the coupe. I have started work on the passenger side front fender. As you can see in the pictures the bottom portion of the fender that attaches to the running board is pretty well shot. I was able to make up new pieces out of 18 ga steel. The patterns where taken off of an old front fender i picked up at a local swap meet. That fender has its own set of rust issues but luckily the parts i needed patterns of where clean and intact. I tacked the new pieces on and started TIG welding them, it's coming out pretty well. Hopefully sometime this week i can get some more welding in. Also the previous owner must of driven through some fresh "oil and stone" or asphalt material cause the inside of the fenders where completely coated. I took sometime with a little plumbers torch and heated/scraped all the junk off. The pile after i was done had to be close to 10 lbs. There was also a big mound of it stuck on top of the headlight bucket. Thanks for looking, -Chris Quote
1952B3b23 Posted July 20, 2015 Author Report Posted July 20, 2015 I had a bit of time to do some more work on the fender this weekend. This is a continuation of the last post. I finished TIG welding the bottom of the fender and ground the welds smooth. I'm so happy i learned how to TIG weld, working them is so much easier than MIG. I then spent time filling a bunch of swiss cheese holes i found on the fender. I didn't take pics of that, got to caught up actually doing the work. All in all im happy with the way it's turning out. Another day or so on this fender and its on the the drivers side one. -Chris Quote
1952B3b23 Posted July 22, 2015 Author Report Posted July 22, 2015 I found a NOS right rear fender for a '39 Plymouth for sale and am considering buying it. Before i do i would like to confirm that it's really for a '39. It looks almost exactly the same as the one on my car but it's in great condition. The reason for buying it would be to use it to pull nice accurate patterns off it to make patch panels. Some parts of the fender currently on my car have rusted away completely. Whats throwing me off is that it doesn't have the rear tail light cut out in it. Was that something that the body shop installing the fender had to do? I've attached pictures of it and the number stamped into the top of the fender is 794306. Thanks, -Chris Quote
Roadkingcoupe Posted July 22, 2015 Report Posted July 22, 2015 (edited) Part # 794306 Right Rear Fender (less tail lamp holes) P7 Roadking model Part # 794304 Right Rear Fender (with tail lamp holes) P8 Models The fender is a 1939 Plymouth P7 fender. P7 base Roadking models ONLY had a Drivers side rear tail light, the passenger side tail lamp was an option. As was the Passenger side Windshield wiper! The rear right (passenger) fender is the hardest one to find. Edited July 22, 2015 by Roadkingcoupe Quote
1952B3b23 Posted July 22, 2015 Author Report Posted July 22, 2015 Part # 794306 Right Rear Fender (less tail lamp holes) P7 Roadking model Part # 794304 Right Rear Fender (with tail lamp holes) P8 Models The fender is a 1939 Plymouth P7 fender. P7 base Roadking models ONLY had a Drivers side rear tail light, the passenger side tail lamp was an option. As was the Passenger side Windshield wiper! The rear right (passenger) fender is the hardest one to find. Thanks a lot for the response. That's exactly what I was needing to know. I had no idea the P7 only had a drivers side tail light. The person is asking $199 for the fender. What's your take on that price? Thanks -Chris Quote
Roadkingcoupe Posted July 22, 2015 Report Posted July 22, 2015 $200 for a rear right NOS fender (in good condition)......fair price. I would buy it and say THANK YOU. buy it before I do! just kidding. Quote
1952B3b23 Posted July 22, 2015 Author Report Posted July 22, 2015 $200 for a rear right NOS fender (in good condition)......fair price. I would buy it and say THANK YOU. buy it before I do! just kidding. You can buy it as long as you let me make the patterns of it first lol. It looks to be in good shape from the pictures, haven't seen it in person yet. Thanks again for the help, -Chris Quote
RobertKB Posted July 23, 2015 Report Posted July 23, 2015 (edited) Buy it and use it! Price is very good for an NOS fender in good shape. You might be able to haggle and get a few buck off but really, they have not made that part for 76 years so count yourself lucky to find it! Edited July 23, 2015 by RobertKB Quote
Roadkingcoupe Posted July 23, 2015 Report Posted July 23, 2015 So you take your old used dented/rusted fender to a body shop....how many hours of labor would it take to get to $200, 2,3 or 4 hours? maybe I am ornery or something like that but, if I were selling a NOS 1939 Plymouth rear right fender for $200 and someone offered less I would decline and refuse to sell it to them......period. Sometimes it is important to recognize a good value and pay the asking price, and say thanks. 2 Quote
1952B3b23 Posted July 23, 2015 Author Report Posted July 23, 2015 Whelp my car is a P8 not at P7 so this fender doesn't have the cut out for the tail light. This doesn't really matter to me cause it has all the parts that my current fender is lacking. Therefore i can create patterns from the NOS and repair mine. Down the road if i needed to i could always make the cut out for the tail light if i really needed to replace the fender, or sell it. Roadkingcoupe: I agree with you that a body shop bill would be far more expensive. I like doing all the sheet metal work myself so the repairs and patch panels are all made by me. None the less i get your point. I do think it can never hurt to haggle with the seller though. As long as the offer isn't so low ball that you offend the guy and he tells you to beat it. Its all part of the buy/sell game. Thanks for the comments guys, -Chris Quote
1952B3b23 Posted July 25, 2015 Author Report Posted July 25, 2015 So i did end up buying the fender and its in amazing shape!! It looks like it has been dry stored for it's entire life. It only has a few very small surface rust patches and is totally dent free. The guy i bought it from said that an old timer had it hanging in his saw mill for a bunch of years when he came along and bought it. It still has the original tag taped to the inside saying who it was sold to (see pic). The tag says: Lawton Wing Co. 278 Babcock St. Boston, Mass I tried googling this company and couldn't find any info. Has anyone ever heard of them? There is also another tag on it that looked to be very old as well. The ink had dried up and all i could make out was the indentations that the pen made in the paper (second pic). It says the following: 1939 Plymouth RIght Rear $25.00 Part No. 794306 I wonder if the $25 was the original selling price? I'm really happy with the purchase, this fender looks as good as the day it left the factory. -Chris Quote
1952B3b23 Posted August 27, 2015 Author Report Posted August 27, 2015 Well i finished up a couple repairs on the passenger side fender (Pic 1 and 2). Those two slotted holes are where that fender shroud bolts to the radiator support, both where all rusted out. That completes all the metal work on the passenger side fender. Next, on to the drivers side which is in worse shape. I've attached some pics of the rotted out areas. Stay tuned for more metal work. -Chris Quote
Robert Horne Posted August 27, 2015 Report Posted August 27, 2015 My 38 P5 Coupe rear passenger side, did not have a tail light, but my 38 P6 had both tail lights.... Quote
1952B3b23 Posted September 24, 2015 Author Report Posted September 24, 2015 So life has gotten pretty busy lately and i haven't had time to make progress on the drivers side fender. With the sporadic bits of time i do get i want to continue working on the re-wiring. I need to access the back of the instrumental panel to re-wire those pieces but i cant figure out how to remove the instrument panel cluster. If i could it would save me so much grief having to be twisted into a pretzel on the floor of the car trying to undo the electrical connections. So does any one have pics or can explain how to remove the instrument panel cluster? Thanks in advance, -Chris Quote
desoto1939 Posted September 24, 2015 Report Posted September 24, 2015 On my 39 Desoto you have you lay on your back and then look up under the dash. There are two metal brakets that are attached to the back of the dash. There are two nuts that hold the the assembly onto the dash on each of these brackets I think there were 1/4 inch nuts or smaller. Remove the 4 nuts and the unit as a whole can then pulled out of the dash. Be careful because allthe wires and the metal tube for the temp gage is all attached and you do not want to break the metal tube to the temp gage. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com. Quote
1952B3b23 Posted September 25, 2015 Author Report Posted September 25, 2015 I was able to remove the instrument cluster. It actually was pretty easy to do. There is two 3/8" nuts at the top of the cluster that get removed. Then the cluster can be pushed out. The bottom sort of just hinges in the dash on two metal clips. Thanks for the help. -Chris Quote
Roadkingcoupe Posted October 2, 2015 Report Posted October 2, 2015 (edited) I was able to remove the instrument cluster. It actually was pretty easy to do. There is two 3/8" nuts at the top of the cluster that get removed. Then the cluster can be pushed out. The bottom sort of just hinges in the dash on two metal clips. Thanks for the help. -Chris A little easier once you saw the photo? A picture is worth a 10000 words. edit: meant to write 1000 words but with inflation 10,000 looks about right. Edited October 2, 2015 by Roadkingcoupe 1 Quote
1952B3b23 Posted October 5, 2015 Author Report Posted October 5, 2015 A little easier once you saw the photo? A picture is worth a 10000 words. edit: meant to write 1000 words but with inflation 10,000 looks about right. Ohhh yea it was much easier with the picture you sent. many thanks. Quote
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