TrampSteer Posted October 18, 2014 Report Posted October 18, 2014 I've read a lot of threads on servicing carburetors in these forums and have learned a lot. I still have a nagging question though. My problem is with the middle circuit. It idles great. Starts great. Runs like a scared cat when you hit the pedal to the floor. But when you want to accelerate, it is awful. I know one of the things that will help me is soaking or replacing that accelerator plunger. But that does nothing for the passages the feed it. I liked the Pine-sol and water 2:1 solution, or the Clorox toilet bowl cleaner. Not so rough on the environment or the wife's yard. But what I am really interested in is getting those small passages. I need them cleaned and cleared. A lot of the conversations turn to what gives the better appearance which I am not concerned with. I started to wonder if the authors were using the outside appearance as a guide to what the inside must look like. So am I off my rocker thinking that I will achieve a good complete cleaning of internal passages with such a non caustic soaking method? Thanks in advance Mike Quote
NiftyFifty Posted October 18, 2014 Report Posted October 18, 2014 They just aren't designed to break down that hard carbon, why not get a gallon can of the dunk style Berryman carb cleaner from Walmart ( http://www.walmart.com/c/kp/carburetor-cleaners) and soak it for a few days and just keep the can closed after incase you need it again... Might make all the difference 1 Quote
P15-D24 Posted October 18, 2014 Report Posted October 18, 2014 They just aren't designed to break down that hard carbon, why not get a gallon can of the dunk style Berryman carb cleaner from Walmart ( http://www.walmart.com/c/kp/carburetor-cleaners) and soak it for a few days and just keep the can closed after incase you need it again... Might make all the difference And pull the lead plugs on the outside of the body so the solution can fully reach all the passages. 2 Quote
Reg Evans Posted October 18, 2014 Report Posted October 18, 2014 Lacquer thinner does the trick in 1/2 the time of any carb cleaner bygolly ! 2 Quote
P15-D24 Posted October 18, 2014 Report Posted October 18, 2014 Lacquer thinner does the trick in 1/2 the time of any carb cleaner bygolly ! And a lot cheaper! Quote
BigDaddyO Posted October 18, 2014 Report Posted October 18, 2014 Get a 'trigger' type of oil can and after you clean the carb, squirt all the passages with a light oil to prove that they are clear. We had to do that in shop and explain each circuit to the instructor. We never pulled the lead plugs out, in fact, this is the first I've heard of it. That would be a last resort for me, I think. 2 Quote
TrampSteer Posted October 18, 2014 Author Report Posted October 18, 2014 (edited) They just aren't designed to break down that hard carbon, why not get a gallon can of the dunk style Berryman carb cleaner from Walmart ( http://www.walmart.com/c/kp/carburetor-cleaners) and soak it for a few days and just keep the can closed after incase you need it again... Might make all the difference I like the price. I notice mixed reviews on carburetor use. Maybe the irate one just left it in too long (20 hrs) and it attacked the pot metal. Lacquer thinner does the trick in 1/2 the time of any carb cleaner bygolly ! Have you found it safe with pot metal? How long of a soak would you give it? I plan on a dismantle and soak. Now sure how long that soak should be. Edited October 18, 2014 by TrampSteer Quote
Mrbrylcreem Posted October 18, 2014 Report Posted October 18, 2014 What about putting the carb components in an ultra sonic cleaner. 1 Quote
TrampSteer Posted October 18, 2014 Author Report Posted October 18, 2014 What about putting the carb components in an ultra sonic cleaner. I could sing to it, that's all I can afford. Quote
NiftyFifty Posted October 18, 2014 Report Posted October 18, 2014 I've used professional cleaner for years, and dunked snowmobile carbs for a couple days in some cases and never hurt a thing, but I immediately wash everything with brake clean once removed from the solution. I'd say a minimum of 12 hours in the solution, but don't leave it an entire day either. Always worked well for me, and I've had some pretty bad ones go in green and come out clean 1 Quote
TrampSteer Posted October 18, 2014 Author Report Posted October 18, 2014 Thanks guys. Got some great advice from Jeff over the phone this morning. This afternoon I got a donor carburetor my friend had for stealing parts from. As long as he gets it back he doesn't care if it is clean or dirty. I already dismantled and put it back together today for practice and familiarization. Jeff- I know exactly what you mean about the step-up circuit now. I am going to try some experiments tomorrow. Quote
Don Coatney Posted October 19, 2014 Report Posted October 19, 2014 Have you tried Coca Cola? Yes but I like Pepsi or Ginger Ale better. 2 Quote
NiftyFifty Posted October 19, 2014 Report Posted October 19, 2014 Have you tried Coca Cola? After the coke you can try some rye.., after a few of those mixed together you'll ave all the courage to dunk the carb in a real cleaner 1 Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted October 19, 2014 Report Posted October 19, 2014 Mike; Hey there you go. Having a better understanding of how these carbs are put together should help quite a lot. Now you know what to concentrate on when you rebuild yours. I am sure you saw the vacuum passage from the base of the carb up into the step down chamber. That has to be clear and the step down piston needs to function smoothly. And of course the jet must be clean. This circuit is completely controlled by variations in manifold vacuum. Jeff Quote
TrampSteer Posted October 25, 2014 Author Report Posted October 25, 2014 (edited) Follow up: Rebuilt using the wall-mart bucket and brake cleaner as per 4mula-dlx (fantastic), passages cleaned with a little push per BigDaddyo, hummed some tunes for Mrbrylcreem, Drank a coke for Oil Soup & Don and paid close attention to HOW the carburetor was supposed to work per Jeff. You wouldn't believe how nice it runs now. But you probably have to do all of these, not just one of them so don't skimp on your next rebuild. Mike p.s. nothing soaked more that an hour except for the main body which got about a three hour soak followed by a scrub / rinse with brake cleaner / blow out and another two hour soak with a final scrub / rinse / blow out. mistakes: not realizing that choke valve screws were swedged in place. Drat! Can you say easy-out? Discoveries: not all parts are there! The way the previous owner did things, I shouldn't be surprised. Edited October 25, 2014 by TrampSteer 2 Quote
NiftyFifty Posted October 25, 2014 Report Posted October 25, 2014 Glad to hear your up and running!! I wish I was Closer to that time again Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted October 25, 2014 Report Posted October 25, 2014 Mike; Glad you got it sorted out. Some of these things are made much more difficult when you are not sure what the PO has tampered with or modified. Jeff Quote
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