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Posted

Hiya Forum. This is my first post. I have been lurking for a while, though.

 

This thread will serve to provide (very?) periodic updates to the restoration and possible modification of my Dodge. I'll do my best to answer any questions anyone has.

 

So, earlier this year, I acquired a non-running 1949 B-1-C, which has since been nicknamed "Rem", from my neighbor. He originally offered it to me in October of 2013, and asked $3000 for it.

 

And then in January, after some yard work and buying him a nice dinner, I became the owner of a Pilothouse truck.

 

Purchase situation:

There is not much cancerous rust.

Everything needs to be rewired before it'll run.

There is no floor for the bed, though the side panels and tailgate are all there (supposedly).

The differential (4.1:1) leaks terribly, and needs to be rebuilt. The truck came with a rebuild kit for it.

Brakes don't work. Probably a bad master cylinder.

Interior needs to be redone. Some idiot with a hacksaw destroyed the area around the original AM radio housing, so the dash will need to be patched.

There was a crack in the frame, though it has since been repaired.

Lots of dents and whatnot; lots of body work to do.

Low compression.

Transmission and engine leak pretty badly.

Hardware is rusted on, and difficult to remove.

 

So, not bad for $200 + a $30 meal, eh?

 

It actually gets a little bit better.

 

The same neighbor was scrapping his old RV. Before they shipped it off, I managed to get a 440/727 and the rear end out of it. 47k miles. And another $150 spent.

 

That 440/727 pair is likely to go into Rem, along with the other rear end. I should be able to source a set of gears pretty easily for it... hopefully.

I intend to attempt this swap with as little modification as possible to the stock components of the vehicle. That means as little as possible frame and firewall modification (if it is needed).

Fortunately, I occasionally have access to a bead roller, so if I need to do a new firewall setup, it'll at least look nice and similar to stock.

 

 

Work done so far:

Sanded and rattle-can painted the front two fenders, as well as miscellaneous surfaces that were showing signs of rust. It isn't pretty, but it'll last until I get an air compressor to do a proper job.

Assembled the bed and confirmed that everything was there.

Stripped the interior. Still has original seat, but it needs to be reupholstered. Seat removed, and hanging.

I rewired everything, and changed it to a 12V system. Unfortunately, I need to do more rewiring. ****ing rats.

Replaced all rubber brake lines, and cleaned the steel ones that were there.

Adjusted the doors so that they close well.

Started working on the brakes-- found out that essentially everything needs to be rebuilt.

Temporarily plugged holes in the roof so no more water can get in. Freaking water.

Started cutting out rusty sections of metal, so that I may replace them when I have a proper welder.

Identified motor leak-- rear main seal. Awesome.

Fixed the heater.

 

More pictures will come with time. I tend to forget to take pictures as I work.

 

Anyway, hopefully my experiences will help people with their own problems-- or at least give them something to laugh about when my methods are all wrong!

 

post-6399-0-14674100-1413527217_thumb.jpg

 

  • Like 2
Posted

Looks like you're off to a good start!  Mike

Posted

Looks like your on your way! Welcome

I'm thinking your going to be doing a lot of firewall cutting to wrangle a 440 in there, and I would maybe suggest the front dsc conversion kit when adding that much weight and HP.....stock drums were never meant for that power.

Keep us posted!

Posted

Did you name the truck REM because of the Rapid Eye Movements you've been experiencing at night while dreaming about the truck?

  • Like 2
Posted

My sig has a link to my build of a 49 B1C.  I'm installing a 350 Mopar engine (first of the B blocks) and 727 tranny and have some pics of what I did to make the engine fit.  Lots of cutting and welding to make things strong enough.  You might get some inspiration and maybe figure out a better way to make the change.  Good luck!  Mike

Posted

Looks like you're off to a good start!  Mike

Thanks! Money is the biggest issue-- I'd be much more along if I had more cash.

 

Welcome!  Looks like a good project!

Thank you! I'm hoping it turns out well!

 

Looks like your on your way! Welcome

I'm thinking your going to be doing a lot of firewall cutting to wrangle a 440 in there, and I would maybe suggest the front dsc conversion kit when adding that much weight and HP.....stock drums were never meant for that power.

Keep us posted!

Hey! Drum brakes work fine! My grandfather's dragster only has drums!

Just kidding. I do intend to change over to disc brakes in the front-- though it may be well after I put the motor in. I may even to the back as well, if I end up having to buy and narrow another rear end.

 

 

Did you name the truck REM because of the Rapid Eye Movements you've been experiencing at night while dreaming about the truck?

I like it!

Haha no, not quite. The name is one from a Japanese animation, and belongs to a god of death.

 

 

My sig has a link to my build of a 49 B1C.  I'm installing a 350 Mopar engine (first of the B blocks) and 727 tranny and have some pics of what I did to make the engine fit.  Lots of cutting and welding to make things strong enough.  You might get some inspiration and maybe figure out a better way to make the change.  Good luck!  Mike

 

Thanks! I actually was looking at your setup last night-- at least, I'm assuming I was looking at the correct one. The gasser replica, yes?

I'm going to do whatever I can to avoid welding or cutting the frame. The heat takes some of the temper out of the steel-- though these frames are probably a lot milder steel then newer ones.

 

Welcome!

Thank you!

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'll be out later today taking pictures. I've got a few questions I need to address to you all, but I'll wait until I've got pictures in order to properly explain my dilemma.

This weekend, I aim to try and cut out some of the cancerous rust, and weld in some sheet metal to replace it. Unfortunately, corners are what have been effected the most... Hopefully my little 90 amp welder will be up to the task!

Posted

Welcome   looks like you have a nice starting point and a plan   I did the 360/727 with orginal frame, yours will have to be boxed too I think, cant speak for 440 and firewall but I needed to move mine alot because how I wanted it to sit. these guy are a wealth of info and experience your in good hands     ps did you get the drive shaft from RV also.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Welcome   looks like you have a nice starting point and a plan   I did the 360/727 with orginal frame, yours will have to be boxed too I think, cant speak for 440 and firewall but I needed to move mine alot because how I wanted it to sit. these guy are a wealth of info and experience your in good hands     ps did you get the drive shaft from RV also.

I'll keep that in mind. I would prefer to re-engineer the steering system instead of altering the frame, but we'll see how it plays out.

I did take the drive shaft out, but it was nearly the length of the truck, so I ended up selling it.

 

 

 

 

Here is one of the pictures I promised. The others are too large; I'll edit them in a few.

My internet ended up going out, so I couldn't get them up earlier.

 

 

post-6399-0-78553300-1413759808_thumb.jpg

 

This is how it looked when I first got it. Oil pressure line for the gauges is broken-- I've plugged it up.

Edited by hetiticth
Posted

I suspect that your neighbor will eventually become jealous and start lurking behind your garage.

Posted

I suspect that your neighbor will eventually become jealous and start lurking behind your garage.

Haha perhaps! He has already expressed that when I have it running well, and looking better, he wants a ride in it.

Not really much of a garage to lurk around though, unfortunately.

 

 

 

I just found out I may be getting a new-to-me welder and an air compressor around Thanksgiving! Things are looking up for the future of the Rem! No more trying to stick weld body panels!

Posted (edited)

Is anyone aware of any fully floating rear ends that could swap out with the original rear ends? I'm in need of some insurance in case I can't narrow the RV rear end.

 

I'm looking at fully floating stuff, because I intend to use the truck as it was intended-- for work.

I'm thinking a 9in Ford could be shortened pretty well-- and it is a very common rear end, so parts shouldn't be a problem.

 

Or possibly a Spicer 60.

Edited by hetiticth
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I've come across what looks to be a Dana 61. Turns out they aren't desirable because you can't put numerically higher gearing than 4.10:1 in, and rock-crawlers and such are looking for numerically high gears.

 

So, chances are, there will be one at the local junkyard. They have many trucks that had the option of having the Dana 61. Time to save up for $100!

 

I'll likely end up with a 3.07:1 rear end, as those seem to be the most common for this rear end. With the added power from that 440, pulling things shouldn't be a problem, and fuel economy will improve while I'm not towing a trailer-- which will be most of the time.

 

Had my father pull the axle shafts out of the rear end that was on that RV (the motor/transmission and . They won't be able to be shortened, because they become thin in the middle. This Dana 61 will be better anyhow, I think.

 

Check out my new bed! Muwahahaha I'm super lazy.

 

Also included a picture of the lugs, partly because I need some place to save pictures, and partly because I was talking with someone over the chat a while ago (I can't remember who it is) and they wanted to know the size of the studs.

post-6399-0-74750000-1415382278_thumb.jpg

post-6399-0-18749800-1415382492_thumb.jpg

Edited by hetiticth
  • Like 2
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I've looked around a bit, but haven't found any answers to this question.

Are there any bolt in tandem master brake cylinders for these trucks? I'd really like to upgrade my master cylinder, and seeing as how I need to replace it anyway, I figured now would be as good a time as any to do that.

Posted

Sorry, can't answer the m/c question, but just wanted to offer moral support for the project.

I am quite sure that the MH 440 will provide many hours of driving enjoyment. ;)

Posted

Since you will be adding a 440/727 combo, I suggest checking out the Dan'so hemi swap project for your mc.

Posted

If you have to change or adjust firewall you can go with and of the hanging pedal set ups that includes MS bosster and pedal. Mine pretty mush bulted in affter triming to length

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
Posted

Well, it has been a while since I've posted, so I'm just going to give a small update.

I've been working on rewiring my truck once again. It's not that I enjoy wiring it, but more that the rats enjoy eating the wires. I took the hood off, so hopefully they won't be brave enough to be out in the open where owls can catch 'em when they start on my wiring.

 

Other than that, progress has been pretty slow. I haven't had much daylight with which to work.

I'm still on the lookout for a bolt in tandem master cylinder, but I'm pretty skeptical as to whether or not one exists. If nothing else, I can always custom make a bracket, and find a tandem MC (hammer! wait..) with the same displacement. 

 

I'm getting ready to buy some wheel cylinders at the beginning of April from Roberts Motor Parts. Does anyone have experience dealing with them? They seem to be reputable, and they have the cheapest replacement wheel cylinders I could find, as well as many other parts that I'm going to need.

 

I'm going to wait to replace the rear end until after I get the RV motor and transmission in the truck. I don't have the tools I need in order to do a proper job of replacing the drive shaft and such, so I am probably just going to find a rear end, and take it to a shop. It will be costly, but they have the equipment to get everything properly balanced, whereas I do not. The plan is still to get a fully floating 3.07 geared rear end. I'll probably end up driving it around for a while with the 4.10 in there, all the while being very careful with my throttle application. I've no idea how well it will hold up.

 

These last few weeks, I've mostly been cleaning off the dirt/grease/oil/whatever-else-is-there from the engine and transmission that is in the truck. After I've cleaned and serviced everything, I aim to take off the front fenders, and cut out the hot rivets, and see if I can find a machine shop nearby with a square punch, so I can fit carriage bolts instead of normal ones on the panel I am welding in. I believe that it will be a cleaner and more factory look with the carriage (I hate spelling that word. Gets me every time!) bolts.

 

I don't see that I've mentioned about my job yet, probably because I started it around the same time as my sudden inactivity happens. This may or may not be related. Anyway, I am now working for a local collision repair center, and I will be learning as much as I can about bodywork and the like, so I'll be able to paint the truck either by myself, or with as little outside assistance as possible.

 

Unfortunately, both the welder and the air compressor that I got during Thanksgiving require more power than what is currently available at my house. Come summer, I will be moving to a house in the city, where I will hopefully have access to 220V. My dryer outlet does not put out enough amperage to run either machine. By that time, the truck should hopefully be drive-able, and I should be able to use the garage at the house, since I am the only mechanically inclined person who will be there.

 

After that, the 440/727 will be put in. I will have to drive approximately 250 miles to get to my grandparents house, where I will do the swap, with the help of both my Dad and my grandfather, and then drive it back.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'd like to also throw out there what I hope the end picture would be like. I am going to be painting the truck with a single stage black, and I want to bronze plate all of the chrome in the truck, as well as alter some of the original equipment, to adopt a sort of 'steampunk' style theme. I really enjoy that sort of fantasy genre, because it has the potential to be real, which is what I am trying to achieve here. 

interior_wip.jpg

I'll do something that is vaguely like this, though much closer to original, for the interior of the truck.

b6104de8f87a5bb2ccf3f1d16b35cd9b.jpg

Doing something vaguely similar to this would be pretty cool too, but again, this is a bit overdone. 

 

Anyway, any questions are welcome!

Posted

Make sure you make a video of all the work and fun you have, when you do the swap with your father and Grandfather. Three generations all together working on your truck will be something that you will want to have a record of (trust me)  Wow that large brass Flip switch is something never seen that before. Working at a body shop sure will give you a lot of experience that will help later. Good luck and hope to see pic's as you progress.

Posted

...not too sure about that 'steam-punk' deal... It would appear to me that all of the time/energy/money expended on doo-dads and gizmos could make for a better all-around truck at its core. But, I'm approaching 'old' status and......it must be time for my nap...... :P or was it dinner?

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I am now getting overwhelmed with work and school. I'm taking a few classes in college, as well as working two jobs (auto and aircraft technician... the latter pays much better, in case anyone is interested.) ... Hardly any time to check the forums! So, I apologize for the late reply!

 

Make sure you make a video of all the work and fun you have, when you do the swap with your father and Grandfather. Three generations all together working on your truck will be something that you will want to have a record of (trust me)  Wow that large brass Flip switch is something never seen that before. Working at a body shop sure will give you a lot of experience that will help later. Good luck and hope to see pic's as you progress.

Family members usually end up taking pictures of us working together (whenever we have a large project, the mechanically inclined people in my family flock together to work on it-- which is primarily my grandfather, my father, and I). Regardless, I will take as many pictures as I can!

 

The body shop, surprisingly enough, hasn't taught me a whole lot after the first few weeks.. Now they seem to just be reaping the benefits of cheap labor! Oh well. They are pretty close by, and they help me repair stuff (so far, I haven't spent anything on body work, other than for a little bit of scrap metal) every now and then when I bring it in. 

 

If I am remembering correctly, I believe that I've seen a similar large handle like that, that was used as a shutoff for the electricity in an old machine shop. 

 

 

 

...not too sure about that 'steam-punk' deal... It would appear to me that all of the time/energy/money expended on doo-dads and gizmos could make for a better all-around truck at its core. But, I'm approaching 'old' status and......it must be time for my nap...... :P or was it dinner?

The way I go about things will be different than those two vehicles, in that mine won't be specifically for showing off. I want this to be both a work truck, and one that people will turn their heads and look at as I drive by. First, I will focus on performance, then I will focus on looks. 

 

Well, you've heard the saying, haven't you? With age comes wisdom! 

 

Now, most of the factory switches and whatnot have been removed from the truck, so all it has is a bunch of 50 cent toggle switches for everything. I figured that, since the factory ones are gone anyway, it would be worth the time and money to set up some sort of theme for the final build of the truck. I thought that the 'steam-punk' theme would be one of the more unique, and less difficult ones to get away with successfully.

 

 

-----

 

 

So, I am for sure going to be doing the motor and transmission swap this summer.

My Dad has been working on his own project, where he took the body off of a schoolbus, and moved the cab from a 1959 GMC truck over onto the bus frame, and is building it into a heavy duty truck to haul his machinery up to Washington when he moves. It's crazy. I'll upload a few pictures once we have it complete. I'm helping him now, with what little spare time I have, to fab up a hood. We are trying to make it look like it could have been factory.

 

Anyway, the plan right now is for him to drive his truck over to where I live (He's in Texas, I am not), and I'll drive Rem up onto the back of his truck, then we will go back to his shop, and spend a few weeks working on putting a new drivetrain in.

 

I have found a rear end that I will probably use, that is coming out of a gargantuan truck (a Ford F650) that had burned to the ground. Unfortunately, it is a dually, so if I keep a single rear tire, the hub will stick out quite a bit, which could be problematic, plus it looks pretty odd. I don't want to go with a dually, because nothing I will be doing will require me to need it. But.. the price is right. I'll probably be getting it for free, or close to it. 

 

 

 

 

 

Has anyone dealt with Roberts Motor Parts? They seem like a good business, but I prefer to ask before I send my money off to a company that I won't be able to see in person.

  • 5 months later...
Posted

I am terrible at checking the forums it seems. Here's another update.

 

Full time college student now, and I quit my job at the body shop/airport.

 

Robert's Motor Parts had excellent service; I ordered new slave cylinders for the rear brakes, and they arrived before the expected date. They were packaged relatively well (in news paper, however I don't believe bubblewrap to be necessary for cast iron parts). 

These brake cylinders worked perfectly, which was great! Unfortunately, however, there were cracks along the entire rear section of brake line. Nothing every goes the way you want it to in this business, does it?

 

Other than that, I have finished my current wiring setup. Starter has returned to it's original position on the floor, and it is hooked up so that I have lights, and the motor will run. I will do more in the future, as well as hook up to a fuse block. When I add in the fuse block, I will try and make a good guide for those who have converted to 12v. No promises, though; I am but a novice.

 

The motor starts and runs well, though the leak on the rear main seal is annoying enough to discourage daily commuting. That, the destroyed seat, and my lack of experience in double clutching makes the ride rather nerve-wracking. 

 

I would be taking photos, but there isn't much difference between the "before" and "after" parts of the current work. The date for the drivetrain swap keeps getting pushed back, which is unfortunate, but in some ways beneficial. 

 

If I have to cut into my firewall to accommodate the 440, I'll end up making a cowl panel similar to the one in the photos below.

 

 

Most of my work has been focused on helping my father with his "Elvira" project, where we swapped the body of a 59 GMC onto a school bus frame.

 

It was difficult, but a great learning experience.

 

 

 

-----ELVIRA ('59 GMC/school bus frame swap) STUFF-----

For those who are interested, here's a link to a gallery of photos from the "Elvira" project (there were too many photos to upload all at once):

http://s1069.photobucket.com/user/hetiticth/library/Elvira

 

We did a lot of custom fabrication on this project. The most difficult bit so far has been the hood, by far. We made it from scratch, and I think it ended up quite nice!

 

We also made a new bumper and some other stuff.

 

If you have any questions about it, feel free to ask, and I will answer them as soon as I am able.

 

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted

Just starting on my project 1.5 ton 1949 dodge flatbed dually.  Just found a late 80s motorhome dually with a 440 low miles automatic.  500.00 thinking of putting the whole running frame and running gear under the 49  The truck has already been converted to a 383 automatic.  Source for old brakes in Portland Oregon Otis friction.  Just a point of interest. they will rebuild most anything.  watching your status looks like I will be doing the same thing for the most part.

Powder coating the cab with red/black vein powder coat and fenders black and silver vein powder.  Powder coater owes me my kind of deal. Pictures of truck in my gallery with the 51 Dually trying to sell.

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