engine pull

[swiftrev]

what are the best mounting point on a flathead 6 for the engine hoist chains.

[moose]

I generally use one of the rear manifold studs, and a bolt into the generator mounting bracket.  Works nice, being at opposite corners.  Gives a little room for adjustment of level. 

 

Now, you better make an intro, before they jump on you.

[Dave72dt]

Welcome to the forum.  I see you're from New Jersey and have a '52 Coronet that needs the engine removed.  That's enough intro for me.  Looking for help, guidance and encouragement, this is the site.  Be sure to take advantage of the search functions and resources of the site as well as the chat session when it has participants.  No need to be bashful there.  Throw in some pics of your project, regardless of it's condition when you get a chance.  Everyone likes to look at pictures.

[desoto1939]

what are the best mounting point on a flathead 6 for the engine hoist chains.

What part of South Jersey are you located in?  We have member in the Philly area and South Jersey and Delaware.

 

Rich HArtung  I live near Valley forge PA.

Desoto1939@aol.com

[garbagestate 44]

If I recall, I attached the chain to  front and rear head bolts (on the corners) with large washers to keep the chain from pressing into the head which is essentially a hollow casting. I don't know if that was right or not but it did work. By the way, I'm in Jersey myself.Essex county. 

[swiftrev]

What part of South Jersey are you located in?  We have member in the Philly area and South Jersey and Delaware.

 

Rich HArtung  I live near Valley forge PA.

Desoto1939@aol.com

HI everyone,

Im originally from Philadelphia, Im Now In Pennsauken, NJ.  

here is the actual car i bought. the ad is still online.

 

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?39550-1952-dodge-coronet-4-door-1600-obo

 

I stripped the wheel lug bolts trying to get the rear drums off with a puller...because the nipple of the wheel cylinder fell off from rust as  i was running new brake lines

I gave up and got a 8.25 chrysler rear. so ill have to figure a drivetrain/ u bolt swap or something

It also needs a rear main oil seal. thats why Im looking at

how to pull the engine.

 

It actually runs tho.  I havent driven it far enough to shift the gyro yet. but I figure if its bad ill just glue the solenoid shut and drive it as a two speed on the tree.

[Lloyd]

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on the purchase. Great looking car and a good price.

 

Yep, To move my engine around I use a four point leveler on my cherry picker. Came with the hoist. Then I use hardened steel bolts with large washers in the front and rear head bolt holes.

 

Not sure about the 52 coronet but you may be able to get a 2 piece neoprene type seal that will let you install while the engine is still in the car.

Unless you have some other stuff to do to the engine.

Edited September 4, 2014 by Lloyd

[desoto1939]

This car should have on the left side left hand threaded lug bolts and right hand treaded lug bolt onthe right side.  Chrysler was know for the left and right hand threaded lug bolts and many mechanics broke and or stipped the left side lugs becasue of this.  Check that the lug bolts on the left side might have an L stamped in the head of the bolt.

 

How did you stripe the threads when using the puller? If you thried to put the wrong bolts onthe wrong side then that would happen but the right handed bolt would not thread inthe the left side becasue of the thread being left handed. 

 

Also did you use a three arm drum puller to remove the drums or a  gear puller to attach to the sides of the drum to pull the drum?  Need a three arm puller or a puller that permits you to  use all 5 lug nuts and bolts to pull the drum with even pressure.

 

Rich HArtung

Desoto1939@aol.com

cell 484-431-8157

[Paul Beard]

I am right across the bridge from you in northeast Philly and have a three leg drum puller. Just message me if you would like some help.

 

Look up my name on member list for email address. Names are alpha. by first name.

Edited September 4, 2014 by Paul Beard

[Old School]

 I havent driven it far enough to shift the gyro yet. but I figure if its bad ill just glue the solenoid shut and drive it as a two speed on the tree.

 

 

I have Fluid Drive rather than Gyro-Matic but I find it to be a bit of a conversation piece when passengers, who know their manual transmissions, witness the car idle without "disengaging" the clutch.

 

Best wishes on the restoration.

[DonaldSmith]

Someone chip in now....  Oh, I'll do it.  

 

Fluid Drive is the presence of a fluid coupling between the engine and the clutch.  Gyro-Matic is the Dodge lingo for the semi-automatic transmission.  Tip-Toe for DeSoto and I forget what for the Chryslers.   Start off in third and up-shift to fourth.  Some cars had a three-speed transmission behind the clutch and fluid coupling.  Drive all day in third. 

[Don Coatney]

Someone chip in now....  Oh, I'll do it.  

 

Fluid Drive is the presence of a fluid coupling between the engine and the clutch.  Gyro-Matic is the Dodge lingo for the semi-automatic transmission.  Tip-Toe for DeSoto and I forget what for the Chryslers.   Start off in third and up-shift to fourth.  Some cars had a three-speed transmission behind the clutch and fluid coupling.  Drive all day in third. 

Well said Mr. Smith.