Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I believe the water is flowing through the block fine. I'm pretty sure my problem is the radiator is not transferring the heat. If we poured water on the front of the radiator, the engine would cool fine. So, if we can get the radiator to cool the engine should cool.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

On the same subject just removed the water pump assembly from my 1953 251. I notice the bottom bolt is longer and actually opens up into the water jacket so that when i removed that bolt water came out. What is the purpose of this? Just for draining if you dont want to remove complete water pump assembly?

Also, the bottom radiator hose has the usual curved steell tube section in the middle. Does this metal section serve a purpose (heat exchange?).  Mine has 2 rusted pin head holes in it so is it okay to replace the rubber/steel hose combination with an all rubber hose?

Posted

I also have a 53 251 engine. My elbow was shot so I replaced it with a stainless elbow. I don't believe this elbow has any heat loss purpose. I believe it simply makes installation easier than with a ninety degree rubber hose.

 

elbow.jpg

 

SS_hose.jpg

 

On the bolt issue the bolt simply penetrates the water jacket because there is not enough depth in the block at that point to safely secure the pump in a dead end hole. When I first ran my engine after installing the pump I had a leak because I did not use thread sealant on that bolt.

 

waterleak.jpg

Posted
HanksB3B, on 16 Nov 2014 - 12:28 AM, said:HanksB3B, on 16 Nov 2014 - 12:28 AM, said:

Where did you get that elbow. I need one. I've searched for either the part or a fabricator and have come up blank.

 

Thanks for posting Don,

 

Hank  :)

I worked in the food processing industry and pulled that elbow from the dumpster after it was removed from a project..

 

You might check here.  http://www.sharpeproducts.com/store/bent-90-stainless-steel-steel-aluminum-pipe-tube-elbows

 

Or you could use aluminum or galvanized steel conduit from Lowes. http://www.lowes.com/pd_19623-15527-02-55544PE_0__?productId=1056767&Ntt=aluminum+conduit+sweep+elbow&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Daluminum%2Bconduit%2Bsweep%2Belbow&facetInfo=

Posted

Hank;

Roberts sells a one piece pre-formed hose that fits perfectly. It is really not a bad way to go. Much cleaner installation and IMO it eliminates two totally unnecessary connections.

Of course I admit I am more interested in increased reliability and ease of repair than authenticity... so take this with a grain of salt. ;)

 

 

Jeff

Posted

Hank;

Roberts sells a one piece pre-formed hose that fits perfectly. It is really not a bad way to go. Much cleaner installation and IMO it eliminates two totally unnecessary connections.

Of course I admit I am more interested in increased reliability and ease of repair than authenticity... so take this with a grain of salt. ;)

 

 

Jeff

 

If you are going for cheap, you can buy straight radiator hose in 3' lengths and cut to size as needed as long as you have the elbow. I've never had a problem with leaks at the elbow in my car.

 

 

I worked in the food processing industry and pulled that elbow from the dumpster after it was removed from a project..

 

You might check here.  http://www.sharpeproducts.com/store/bent-90-stainless-steel-steel-aluminum-pipe-tube-elbows

 

Or you could use aluminum or galvanized steel conduit from Lowes. http://www.lowes.com/pd_19623-15527-02-55544PE_0__?productId=1056767&Ntt=aluminum+conduit+sweep+elbow&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Daluminum%2Bconduit%2Bsweep%2Belbow&facetInfo=

 

I've got a copper elbow from the plumbing department of a hardware store in mine. Been there for nearly 40 years now. Painted the outside black so it didn't look like a shiny piece of copper in the wrong place. If anyone has ever noticed that it is not authentic they've never mentioned it to me.

Posted (edited)

Thanks Don, nice work.

 

My sisters husband is a metal fabricator so I guess I will be asking for a favour.

Although I would assume modern "rubber" hose material would cope better with a 90d bend and not kink?

Edited by Geekay
Posted

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/xlarge/VPE-13030_QV_xl.jpg

 

Summit racing has 90 degree mandrel(smooth) bent pipe in various sizes bend radius and plain steel, aluminized steel and stainless $6.00 to $35.00.

 

Up to you whether you want to go that direction.  B)   Maybe I shouldn't use the Cool face at this time of year! :huh:

 

DJ

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use