Jeff Balazs Posted February 21, 2015 Report Posted February 21, 2015 Well if it makes you feel any better the drivers side rear wheel on my 3/4 ton had 3 broken lugs. Boy was it fun to get off. In the end heat did the trick.........but then I swapped in a Cherokee rear axle So I went through it all for nothing. Jeff Quote
IanT_Qld Posted February 21, 2015 Report Posted February 21, 2015 interesting, mine on the right has those buttons drilled so the hub is only held on by the wheel bolts. Presumably a mechanic or Grandad in the past couldnt get it off either. I removed my rear wheel the ofther day and the drum just fell off. Quote
Geekay Posted March 6, 2015 Author Report Posted March 6, 2015 After listening to some "experience" on this Forum I decided to completely overhaul the braking system. Have removed the master cylinder which was dry and seized. After some lubrication it now "works".Also removed all backing plates after finding every piston was severely seized. Have removed the pistons and all brake lines, metal and rubber (the rubber ones were blocked). Will replace all the lines too. All this to the local brake guy soon. 1 Quote
Geekay Posted March 6, 2015 Author Report Posted March 6, 2015 As the van is up on blocks with all wheels/brakes/bearings etc off I cannot start the motor and play with that so decided to tackle the cooling system. Previously had the water pump off and know the front welch plug (aka freezer plug) is rusted through. Had temporarily repaired this. Now have removed all the plugs, one at front, anf 5 along the side. The gunk that came out of the lower middle one was incredible. About half a cup of black sludge. Stuck the garden hose (we have very good pressure) in all the plug holes and gave it a good flushing. Now wil get some flushing additive and do that again. Luckily the radiator is in very good condition. Next I need to investigate and possibly remove this "tube" thing that runs to the back of the block. Need to do some reading on the forum to see how this is done. Quote
Desotodav Posted March 6, 2015 Report Posted March 6, 2015 Start at this thread GK... http://p15-d24.com/topic/36827-stuck-water-tube/?hl=%2Bwater+%2Bdistribution#entry380390... as there is good information there. Be sure to follow the links that Shel added at posts # 4 and 5. Quote
Mrbrylcreem Posted March 7, 2015 Report Posted March 7, 2015 GK. Hello. A couple of pics to help you. along. Quote
Frank Elder Posted March 7, 2015 Report Posted March 7, 2015 As the van is up on blocks with all wheels/brakes/bearings etc off I cannot start the motor and play with that so decided to tackle the cooling system. Previously had the water pump off and know the front welch plug (aka freezer plug) is rusted through. Had temporarily repaired this. Now have removed all the plugs, one at front, anf 5 along the side. The gunk that came out of the lower middle one was incredible. About half a cup of black sludge. Stuck the garden hose (we have very good pressure) in all the plug holes and gave it a good flushing. Now wil get some flushing additive and do that again. Luckily the radiator is in very good condition. Next I need to investigate and possibly remove this "tube" thing that runs to the back of the block. Need to do some reading on the forum to see how this is done. Remove or open the petcock and insert a wire to remove more Quote
Geekay Posted March 8, 2015 Author Report Posted March 8, 2015 Thansk all. Dav, that post no5 by shel is great. I was going to leave it in there but will have another go at removing it. I assume a new WDT does actually do what it is supposed to. Quote
Geekay Posted March 28, 2015 Author Report Posted March 28, 2015 (edited) Brakes: Now have all brake components removed including backing plates, master cylinder, lines (steel and rubber) and taken them to the local Brake man, who fortunately is a Chrysler fan, and has actually done this sort of restoration work. He has since said all the cylinders will need re sleeving, which I expected, as the pistons were all seized and system all dry of fluid. I will get him to make new lines too. Below is a photo of the lines I removed and put back together for him to replicate Welch plugs: Have received new brass plugs from Jim Robinson and will install these next week. Water Distribution Tube: Have not been able to remove it. The front section is quite rusted and I suspect the rest is in poor shape too. Later on when I get around to a full recondition of the motor (when ever that is) I will tackle this. Spare bits: Desoto Dav put me onto a gearbox on eBay and I bought it for A$28.50 about US$22. The guy was great and GAVE me two spare windscreens, 2 6V starter motors, 4 spare rims. He was happy that they went to a restorer and not a re-seller/collector. The plan I intend to get the mechanicals (motor, gearbox, brakes, diff, cooling, oil etc)and electrics to a point where it is safely drivable. Then deal with any suspension, steering issues. I have access to trade plates so will be able to legally drive it around a bit. I will need to replace most (if not all) the window rubbers. Next will be some basic panel work. It is quite straight with a few rust areas like bottom of rear quarter panles and front guards (fenders for you US folk) where the bolts are up high near the doors. Door locks and window winders need some attention too (i.e they don't work). Apply some Ankwor wax (thanks again to Davin) to protect the petina (still really don't know what that word really means???). The aim will then be to get it to a road worthy state and get a Club Permit Registration. It will then be a Rat Rod! Eventually (how long is a piece of string??) after enjoying driving it around locally for a while and doing minor repairs (I hope) to keep it going, I will start on a more complete restoration of the body and mechanicals. This maybe 6 months or 2 years...depends..... Still enjoying the journey........... . Edited March 28, 2015 by Geekay Quote
NiftyFifty Posted March 28, 2015 Report Posted March 28, 2015 I didn't know you could sleeve these motors, but never really looked into it either...or do you mean to have the cylinder bored to an over size? Getting that distribution tube out is going to be a chore, but it's a must, having a coolant blockage can end a motor or head gasket in a hurry. Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted March 28, 2015 Report Posted March 28, 2015 You may as well get cracking on that WDT. It won't get any easier with time and it could be restricting coolant flow to the rear cylinders. Besides removing a stubborn (aren't they all ?) WDT is the ultimate rite of passage into the L6 fraternity Some would say you have no way of knowing you are really alive until you have been through that experience. Jeff Quote
Desotodav Posted March 28, 2015 Report Posted March 28, 2015 I'm going to have to stop suggesting things and costing you money GK as I fear a nasty phone call from your wife! Good score on that gearbox and parts mate. Quote
RobertKB Posted March 28, 2015 Report Posted March 28, 2015 (edited) You may as well get cracking on that WDT. It won't get any easier with time and it could be restricting coolant flow to the rear cylinders. Besides removing a stubborn (aren't they all ?) WDT is the ultimate rite of passage into the L6 fraternity Some would say you have no way of knowing you are really alive until you have been through that experience. Jeff I have never had that rite of passage and I have removed many water distribution tubes. It seems in Canada that all WDT were brass and they usually come out very easily. Last one I pulled was in an engine that had sat for 25 years plus. Bent a metal clothes hanger to fit, clamped vise-grips to the hanger, and tapped the hammer with a light ball peen hammer. Out popped the WDT looking as good as new and certainly reusable. I actually sold it to a forum member. When replacing a hard to get out steel tube, try to find a new or good used one that is brass! All Canadian tubes from 1938 on are for the longer 25" block as Canada had the one size engine fits all Chrysler products mentality. Never a short block built up here after 1937. I guess the small market did not warrant building two engine sizes. Sure makes finding an engine to fit your vehicle easy. Edited March 28, 2015 by RobertKB 1 Quote
Geekay Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Posted March 30, 2015 I didn't know you could sleeve these motors, but never really looked into it either...or do you mean to have the cylinder bored to an over size? Getting that distribution tube out is going to be a chore, but it's a must, having a coolant blockage can end a motor or head gasket in a hurry. I was referring to the "cylinders" in the brakes...probably the incorrect terminology. Quote
Geekay Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Posted March 30, 2015 You may as well get cracking on that WDT. It won't get any easier with time and it could be restricting coolant flow to the rear cylinders. Besides removing a stubborn (aren't they all ?) WDT is the ultimate rite of passage into the L6 fraternity Some would say you have no way of knowing you are really alive until you have been through that experience. Jeff Okay, point taken. Always prepared to listen to people who have "been there, done that". What are the "tricks" to getting one out that appears to well and truly rusted in? I have only tried pulling it out with a wire that has a hook on the end. Perhaps I need to make a stronger steel plate version as per the Tech tips that wont bend when I apply a bit more pressure. Quote
Geekay Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Posted March 30, 2015 I'm going to have to stop suggesting things and costing you money GK as I fear a nasty phone call from your wife! Good score on that gearbox and parts mate. The wife? Don't have one, well legally anyway. Have been living with Teresa for 20 years so I guess she qualifies Anyway, it's my money and she has no say. Quote
Geekay Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Posted March 30, 2015 The WDT. Ah, another unespected challenge, but as one of our recently departed Prime Ministers once said "Life wasn't meant to be easy". Yesterday i vigorously attempted to remove the WDT as per the Tech Tip using pointy nose pliers and multingrips compressing those and a hammer. All i achieved was tearing off small pieces of the WDT (bear in mind the motor is still in the van). So out with more WD40 and spray liberal amounts of this into the front of the tube and used my air hose to blow this into the far reaches of the WDT. Today will have another attempt using the tip in Tech Tip to "Take a piece of 1/2 wide flat bar stock and gently drive it into the block between the thin straight side of the tube wall and the block etc etc". In fairness to Prime Minister Malcom Fraser I should add that the quote in full was "Life wasn't meant to be easy, my child, but take courage: it can be delightful" Prime Minister Malcolm Fraser was also famous for losing his trousers in a seedy Memphis hotel in 1986. How this happened remains a secret. 2 Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted March 31, 2015 Report Posted March 31, 2015 Uh huh. Making this tube out of steel definitely wasn't the brightest idea. I think there are many different levels of deterioration that can be found too. Mine came out in many small pieces. And then more was fished out of the water jacket with the head off using a magnetic wand. Photo does not include all the bits that I flushed out using a pressure washer and a small wand. I think the biggest single piece was about 4" long. See attached photo : These can only come out in one piece if they still have more structural integrity than a piece of swiss cheese. I think the majority of them are in better shape than what I started with......it just crumbled and tore every couple of inches. If anyone ever needed proof of how stubborn I can be this is it. I probably spent 15 to 20 hours on this lovely little operation. The patient survived and runs quite well....but the Doctor will never ...ever be the same. Hopefully you will have an easier time of it than I did. If not.....well at least you will know that there is one person out there who has cussed this adbomination as much as you have. Whatever doesn't kill you makes you stronger. Or so the saying goes..... Jeff Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted March 31, 2015 Report Posted March 31, 2015 (edited) Uh huh. Making this tube out of steel definitely wasn't the brightest idea. I think there are many different levels of deterioration that can be found too. Mine came out in many small pieces. And then more was fished out of the water jacket with the head off using a magnetic wand. Photo does not include all the bits that I flushed out using a pressure washer and a small wand. I think the biggest single piece was about 4" long. See attached photo : These can only come out in one piece if they still have more structural integrity than a piece of swiss cheese. I think the majority of them are in better shape than what I started with......it just crumbled and tore every couple of inches. If anyone ever needed proof of how stubborn I can be this is it. I probably spent 15 to 20 hours on this lovely little operation. The patient survived and runs quite well....but the Doctor will never ...ever be the same. Hopefully you will have an easier time of it than I did. If not.....well at least you will know that there is one person out there who has cussed this adbomination as much as you have. Whatever doesn't kill you makes you stronger. Or so the saying goes..... Jeff Edited March 31, 2015 by Jeff Balazs Quote
RobertKB Posted April 1, 2015 Report Posted April 1, 2015 As stated earlier, replace with a brass tube. I can't imagine going through that ordeal. Also, some owner, decades down the road, will sing your praises! LOL Quote
Geekay Posted April 1, 2015 Author Report Posted April 1, 2015 Bent a hook on the end of a piece of quarter inch rod and sharpened it with a point to retrieve the WDT. It goes all the way into the tube but even with encouragement from a hammer it wont budge the tube. Although i am not certain it is hooking the slot in the tube or inside the block wall. I will have another attempt at spraying some de-rusting compound into it and try again. So far about 5 inches has now been torn off the front of the tube so I suspect that I am going to end up with a collection like Jeff's (nice photos). Today I went to order a new tube from my Dodge bits supplier in Aus Jim Robinson t. He said he has been having trouble getting stock of WDT from the US at a reasonable price and is waiting on a shipment. Price he quotes ex delivery is AUD$89 or about US $79. Success though with removing the 2 rear swing doors by drilling out the bolts in the hinges. They were well and truly rusted in place. Quote
FargoMarty Posted April 1, 2015 Report Posted April 1, 2015 I was very lucky in that mine was in great condition. I used one of the threaded rods with a hook in it that is used for a battery holder. Put the hooked end in the first slot on top, multigrips on the shaft up against a nut at the end and tap tap tap with a hammer on the multigrips and it came out easy as. Sorry, know that won't make you feel any better, but it got a lot more pulling force than a piece of wire. I'm normally pretty good at taking photos of everything I do but can't locate one of the rod I used to get it out. Regards, Martyn Quote
FargoMarty Posted April 2, 2015 Report Posted April 2, 2015 Geoff, for supply of a WDT try Les Sonter Baulkham Hills 02 9686 1348. Apparently he's the gun for supplying these. Word is he's very good to deal with. I haven't tried him for anything but the Historic Commercial Vehicle Club Forum has multiple good reports on him. Regards, Martyn Quote
Geekay Posted April 2, 2015 Author Report Posted April 2, 2015 Sucess, the WDT is out (in pieces). 2 Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted April 3, 2015 Report Posted April 3, 2015 Congrats! Seems like maybe I still hold the record for the worst one? Jeff Quote
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