timing chain cover removal

[dmulhall]

I think the timing chain on my 251 has skipped a few notches

has anyone removed the timing chain cover without pulling the engine?

if so does anyone have any tricks?

as always thanks very much in advance

Dave

[Jeff Balazs]

You will need to pull the oil pan to get to a couple of the bolts.....but it can be done.

Jeff

[Dodgeb4ya]

No need to pull the pan for T/Cover removal- only necessary when removing the front engine mounting plate.

You will need a proper puller for the crank pulley of damper hub and a big socket for the crank pulley nut. A puller is necessary also for the crank gear removal too.

Bob

[Don Coatney]

Why do you think the chain has jumped? What are the symptoms? I have never actually seen a jumped chain on a Mopar flathead.

[TodFitch]

Why do you think the chain has jumped? What are the symptoms? I have never actually seen a jumped chain on a Mopar flathead.

Maybe not on a Mopar flathead, but I did have it happen on a Mopar 318 V8. Fortunately, it was on my '63 D200 and it was pretty easy to remove enough stuff from the front to get access. Probably took 2 or 3 hours including going to the part store to fix.

 

If it ever happens to the engine in my '33 it will mean pulling the hood, radiator shell and radiator. If I'm lucky, jacking the engine up enough to get access would work but given the relation of the impulse neutralizer and the front frame crossmember I'd might have to pull the engine.

[Jeff Balazs]

No need to pull the pan for T/Cover removal- only necessary when removing the front engine mounting plate.

You will need a proper puller for the crank pulley of damper hub and a big socket for the crank pulley nut. A puller is necessary also for the crank gear removal too.

Bob

True when I did mine I was cleaning up several things at the same time. I stand corrected.

Jeff

[MBF]

I've had 'em jump on an 80's Buick, and a 70 Ford but that was because both cam gears lost part of the nylon teeth on the cam gear.  I've never seen 'em jump on a steel gear.  I'd put #1 at TDC compression and see where the rotor is pointing to be sure before I dug into it.  While the cap is still off, rock the crank back and forth and see how many degrees it travels before the rotor actual starts to move (you can use your timing marks as a reference).