New member really needing some fluid drive transmission help!

[_shel_ny]

Here are just a few of the sources I found. Hoope you guys can view them and see which ones ring try, and which ones seem full of manure!

 

These seem to be correct. Correct as far as they go, and great when they are in context. Many transmissions used gear lube, so that is indeed correct, but they are more than likely talking about the regular 3 speed, and not a "tip-toe", "clunk-o-matic", or "gyro-matic" with the different ranges.

 

Personally, I would leave the "fluid coupling" alone. It seems that you have checked to fluid level there. It has the same function (transfer power from eng to trans) regardless of what gear you are in, and it seems to be doing that. ISO 32 is sometimes only available in min 5 gallon quantities, although it seems some Home Depots carry one that may be suitable in lesser size. (referenced in another thread)

 

Your car would very likely go 45 in the lower portion of the driving range position. Would likely make the engine busy as you describe. You can get your car out for show on the 4th of July as long as you keep your speed and engine rpm's down

 

The proper operation of the governor, solenoid, interrupt switch, resistor and breaker on the air cleaner support (if so equipped), carburetor adjustments, and associated wiring are all critical to the operation of your, I believe M5,  transmission.  M6 probably came out after yours.   The link that I provided in post 4 should give you some direction.

 

My manual has some troubleshooting procedures, but is for the M6 in a Dodge. The tests may, or may not be the same. Maybe someone with a DeSoto can fax, or email you some troubleshooting/test procedures.

 

2 3/4 pints for the transmission. You can't overfill it by much as it will just run out if you did. I believe rule of thumb on filling, or so I was taught, is pinky finger in the fill hole, should be able to touch the lube. One of the possible causes of problems shifting into 4th gear is low oil level in the transmission (see post 3 from 6-30).   Does the vehicle shift as it should in the lower range??? 1st to 2nd.

 

Before you take all the gear lube back.  If you have not already done so when you lowered the rear end, you may want to check the rear axle for quantity/condition of the lube in there. Has nothing to do with your current problem, but could eliminate future problems. Probably a 5/16 square drive to remove the drain plug. Available as square stock at the hardware store.

[ledfootslim]

These seem to be correct. Correct as far as they go, and great when they are in context. Many transmissions used gear lube, so that is indeed correct, but they are more than likely talking about the regular 3 speed, and not a "tip-toe", "clunk-o-matic", or "gyro-matic" with the different ranges.

Personally, I would leave the "fluid coupling" alone. It seems that you have checked to fluid level there. It has the same function (transfer power from eng to trans) regardless of what gear you are in, and it seems to be doing that. ISO 32 is sometimes only available in min 5 gallon quantities, although it seems some Home Depots carry one that may be suitable in lesser size. (referenced in another thread)

Your car would very likely go 45 in the lower portion of the driving range position. Would likely make the engine busy as you describe. You can get your car out for show on the 4th of July as long as you keep your speed and engine rpm's down

The proper operation of the governor, solenoid, interrupt switch, resistor and breaker on the air cleaner support (if so equipped), carburetor adjustments, and associated wiring are all critical to the operation of your, I believe M5, transmission. M6 probably came out after yours. The link that I provided in post 4 should give you some direction.

My manual has some troubleshooting procedures, but is for the M6 in a Dodge. The tests may, or may not be the same. Maybe someone with a DeSoto can fax, or email you some troubleshooting/test procedures.

2 3/4 pints for the transmission. You can't overfill it by much as it will just run out if you did. I believe rule of thumb on filling, or so I was taught, is pinky finger in the fill hole, should be able to touch the lube. One of the possible causes of problems shifting into 4th gear is low oil level in the transmission (see post 3 from 6-30). Does the vehicle shift as it should in the lower range??? 1st to 2nd.

Before you take all the gear lube back. If you have not already done so when you lowered the rear end, you may want to check the rear axle for quantity/condition of the lube in there. Has nothing to do with your current problem, but could eliminate future problems. Probably a 5/16 square drive to remove the drain plug. Available as square stock at the hardware store.

Thanks much Shel, you've been very helpful! I filled the rear-end shortly after I got her, because it was dry as well! I am trying to locate some strictly ten weight oil for the tranny. Does it need to be non detergent? Edited July 2, 2014 by ledfootslim

[ledfootslim]

OK guys, I went of Napa, Oreillys, Auto zone, Tractor supply....no ten weight non detergent. I did, however, find ten-twenty weight tractor hydraulic fluid at tractor supply. I seem to remember someone saying this stuff was safe to use. Anyone?

[_shel_ny]

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Conventional+-+Non-Detergent/N0427/C0162.oap

 

 

Edit:

 

 

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/travellerreg%3B-non-detergent-sae10-2-gal

 

 

I do not know in detergent oil would be a problem in the transmission.

 

Extra oil can go in the engine.

 

Edit 2: tsc oil says not for automotive engines after 1930.

Edited July 2, 2014 by shel_ny

[ledfootslim]

Thanks Shel, but they said they didn't have any and they sure couldn't get any in by Friday- do you know if the ten-twenty weight tractor transmission and hydraulic fluid safe to use?

[greg g]

To use where?   I have read several sources that say efficiency/effectiveness  goes down with higher viscosity fluid in the FD unit. Can not speak to the transmission.

[ledfootslim]

To use in the transmission, which is by most accounts an M5.

[Merle Coggins]

Do they have ISO 32 hydraulic oil at your Tractor Supply store? That's what I have in my Fluid Drive unit and it seems to work fine.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Your S11 Desoto would have the M5 hydraulically operated transmission---(the mechanics techie name for it).

 

Now it was also called the "Tip-Toe Shift" transmission by the DeSoto car sales department back in the day!. Thats the pansy ass name of the DeSoto M5 transmission the owner would probably know it as.

It uses plain 10 Weight oil.

You can easily find it online........Amazon has it.....Kendall 10W $49.99 case 12

Bob

 

[ledfootslim]

Alright guys, thanks for all the help- I have four quarts of non-detergent ten weight coming tommorrow. A little under three for the tranny and then an extra just in case. I'll let you guys know how she runs; hopefully this solves my problems!

[_shel_ny]

Transmission 2 3/4 pints, not 2 3/4 quarts.

[ledfootslim]

That's what I meant.

[rustydesoto]

Hello all,  I'll introduce myself second,  but first as i have owned a 1951 Desoto custom since 2005. A wise , not to old gentelman , once assured me that,

 

                                     In the absence of 10W oil, 30W non-detergent motor oil works fine in warm climates.  I was able to aquire a quart from our local Wal mart.                               

 

These guys are correct about the tip toe shift,  please leave the 90w for the rear end i do believe.  

Secondly I go by the handle Rustydesoto,  a reference to how my car once was.  I live in south easter Ok...  Its good to meet u all!!!!!!!!

[Dodgeb4ya]

I have run 10/40 in those M5/M6 tranny's. They upshift fast! Slow to downshift.

[ledfootslim]

Hello all,  I'll introduce myself second,  but first as i have owned a 1951 Desoto custom since 2005. A wise , not to old gentelman , once assured me that,

 

                                     In the absence of 10W oil, 30W non-detergent motor oil works fine in warm climates.  I was able to aquire a quart from our local Wal mart.  [/size]                             

 

These guys are correct about the tip toe shift,  please leave the 90w for the rear end i do believe.  

Secondly I go by the handle Rustydesoto,  a reference to how my car once was.  I live in south easter Ok...  Its good to meet u all!!!!!!!!

Howdy Rustydesoto! I live in Northwest Arkansas, so I hope to see you at some local events! My S11 was terribly rusty when I bought her, my foot went through the floorboard multiple times pulling the back seat out!

[ledfootslim]

Welllllllll.... I filled her up with the ten weight, charged the battery and drove her around some. She really doesn't feel any different. The only way I can drive her, especially on the hilly dirt roads where I live, is to stick it in first, or power range, take off, stick it in high, or driving, driven until it starts to sound kinda angry, then if I clutch, move the shifter up about halfway to low range and back down, it seems to shift. My timing is a little off, so I'll work on that and see if performance improves. From what I've heard and read, these old cars had decent duet up and go. I've heard people claiming to have scalded the tires on M-5/236.7" Desotos. What have your experiences been?

[Tusler 49 New Yorker]

None of this really sounds like my problem- I really thought it might be the governor not letting me shift to fourth, but I don't think it would go 45 mph or so without shifting. I know this isn't a race car, but shouldn't it have more get-up-and-go than that? Has anyone else had a problem similar to this? Also, I had all the throttle linkage and everything off for the rebuild; is there something I could have done that prevents it from shifting whenever I lift my foot?

if you have a L8 it will go 45 in third. I have done this with my 49 new Yorker (45 in third) when it would not shift to fourth.

Check the govenor with a test light... it is easy and it fixed my not shifting problem.

http://imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/012B/index.htm

[_shel_ny]

Scald the tires. Not likely with a fluid drive coupling between the engine and the tires. Possibly if you fill the coupling with sand or cement.

[ledfootslim]

Scald the tires. Not likely with a fluid drive coupling between the engine and the tires. Possibly if you fill the coupling with sand or cement.

Exactly my thoughts!

[ledfootslim]

Well fellas, I made it to the show and back! Some chick with a 2012 Challenger took the prize in my division, but I had sport just going! :-) Thanks for all the advice and stay cool!

[_shel_ny]

There seems to be some class division problems if you had to compete against a 2012 Challenger

[Don Coatney]

Had the same chick entered the same 48 Desoto would she still have won?

[ledfootslim]

There seems to be some class division problems if you had to compete against a 2012 Challenger

We'll, it was just any cars entered by kids eighteen and under. And it was a pretty sweet Dodge. :-)

[ledfootslim]

Had the same chick entered the same 48 Desoto would she still have won?

Quite possible....she was pretty cute. :-) But most of the judges were female anyway, so it was a pretty fair judging. And the event coordinator and head judge is my boss, so she may have just been trying not to play favorites.....or maybe they just honestly liked the Challenger better! :-)

[_shel_ny]

Meanwhile back at your problem. You say it seems to shift into high when you use the clutch. It may have something to do with the idle setting, or some linkage. Has to idle down to shift, and that may not be happening just by taking your foot off the gas. Does it work in the lower range?  I don't have any experience with it. Just tossing it out for thought.