My 1950 Chrysler Build Thread

[hendo0601]

I didn't spend any time up front as I assumed the front were only turn signals and not parking lights (I don't know what year this became mandatory etc). As a stay at home dad it is now too late to go out there and do any work as cooking dinner/looking after my son take precedence. Tomorrow I will go get the correct bulbs then start checking what's happening up front.

[hendo0601]

So today was a super productive day! Yesterday I was looking at the steering wheel and couldn't handle how ugly it was, so I pulled it and managed to rip the horn wire apart where it comes out of the steering box. Literally ALL of the bakelite is gone from this thing, and steering wheels for a 1950 chrysler aren't just laying around everywhere...so I got creative. I wanted the outer rim to remain black so I split some rubber tubing down the middle and slipped it over the rim. I went with 3/8 hose for the entire length then at the bottom added about 10" of 5/8 to give it a cool stepped look. The inner spokes were super rusty so I sanded them down and painted them the same red as the front steel wheels. To hide the fact that I used rubber hose on a steering wheel I wrapped the entire rim in black electrical tape, polished all the chrome for the horn ring and put it all back together (after replacing the horn wire). All in all I think it looks pretty rad, and will work until I can find a good replacement wheel. I then decided to move the car over one space to give me more room so the flat tire had to come off, that's when I noticed the wheel I was planning on using as a spare is cracked between 3 of the 5 lug holes! ***danger danger danger*** so back to the drawing board on that one! I put the damaged wheel on it just to move the car a few feet but that is all she wrote for that thing! Anyone who lives up in the Pacific Northwest knows about the moss that grows everywhere, and some had started to grow in the drip rails and along the rear fender welting, so I spent an hour or so with a toothbrush scrubbing all that crap off, she looks mighty fine now! I had been contemplating adding a side view mirror to the car, and I had a pretty decent twin post mopar side mirror sitting in my parts pile for forever, so I bit the bullet and decided to mount it. I decided on mounting it on the top of the door frame dead center of the wing window post. It doesn't really show me what's behind me all that well unless I crane my neck a bit, but man it sure looks tough! After fiddling around with other odds and ends I decided to jump in and see what was the deal with the lights not working so great. I took off every connection from the starter relay and voltage regulator and cleaned the connections. I then did the same with every wire at the big junction block on the core support between the horns. Man those things were RUSTY!! After getting them all back on I did a light test and boy do they sure shine bright now! I guess I am due a few "I told you so" from some of you regarding the importance of good grounds on these cars...I deserve it so go ahead!- The only things that do not work are the front marker lights do not come on when the headlights are on, only in the parking light position, and the rear turn signals don't work with the headlights on. They blink super bright without the headlights on, but with them on I cannot tell if they are flashing. Honestly it is just too bright outside to really see them that well, so I will double check their operation tonight. Leave it to a Pacific northwesterner to complain about it being too bright outside! We are used to it being grey and overcast, not bright and sunny! Since I am posting this from my phone I cannot add pictures but when I get my tools put away and some housework done I will add pictures from my computer.

[hendo0601]

Yesterday I also decided to tackle the kick panels. The passenger side panel was in about 3 pieces so it was junk, the driver's side was seriously deteriorated but still maintained its overall shape so that was my template. I traced the pattern onto the backing, cut it out then stretched the material over It and dyed it the same (as close as possible) silver that I used on the window frames. I think they turned out really well and they definitely look a lot better than the ugly exposed metal that was there before!

 

 

I also decided to fabricate some small panels to cover the exposed area at the bottom of the B pillars between the doors. The carpet didn't cover this area and the material covering the B pillar just stops about 4" above the floor, so it was just exposed metal and looked ugly. I considered painting it but decided against it due to overspray issues. I took a small piece of cardboard and just cut it and shaped it until it was the way I wanted it, then traced it onto the backing and stretched some extra material over it and colored it the same as the kick panels. I am decently pleased with the way they came out, but I am thinking these will be temporary until I can come up with something better.

 

Steering wheel before

 

 

 

 

 

[hendo0601]

Steering Wheel After

 

Mirror installed

 

Danger Will Robinson!!!

 

[Niel Hoback]

Your car is really shaping up nicely.  The front parking lights are working correctly.  They come on in the middle switch position and go off when the headlights are turned on.

[hendo0601]

Thank you!!!! I feel like the work never stops, but then again that's how it goes with old cars. There is always something that can be improved or fixed!

Immediately after posting that I went into the chat room and plymouthy Adams told me that is how they are supposed to work. That's one less wiring gremlin to deal with, now to get the rear working correctly and I will be in like flint!

[Niel Hoback]

If the car was perfect and didn't need anything, what would you do?  It's supposed to be a hobby.

[hendo0601]

They make perfect cars????

[Niel Hoback]

No, they don't. That's why we are here to see how close we can come.

[builtfercomfort]

Go to an interstate truck stop and get yourself a big rig steering wheel cover. Weave / lash it on and call it done.

Electrical tape will start to ooze its adhesive. Especially in heat.

[hendo0601]

Okay so quick question, and hopefully I can get an answer right away, but if not that's cool...I am replacing the water pump and hoses and all I could find for lower hoses said "without spring" or just the universal bendy type hoses with the spring molded in. The lower hose I took off is this universal type and the hose I bought is a pre - bent direct fit part but has no spring. Is the spring required in the lower hose to prevent the hose from collapsing? I have the radiator out and I am painting it now so I have some time before I put this thing back together. I am either going to install my new hose as is or reuse the existing hose depending on the advice I receive here. Thanks!

[Niel Hoback]

   Yes, you need the spring.  Get one from an old hose if you can't buy one.

[hendo0601]

Thanks!!! For now I will reuse the old hose until I can find/buy a new spring. The lower hose I took off has a date stamp from just a few years ago and is in pretty good shape, so it should hold up for a little bit until the correct part can be found.

[Ulu]

The spring is needed if you run a coolant recovery tank and a pressurized radiator cap.

 

I don't believe unpressurized cooling systems need a spring, as they just can't suck any vacuum.

[hendo0601]

I left the older hose on it for now and I may leave it for a few days then switch it to the new one, this will give the coolant a bit of a chance to kinda flush out any bigger chunks. I used the garden hose with a pressure nozzle and flushed the coolant tube and the water jackets. To my amazement not much in the way of junk came out, just a second or two of pinkish water then it ran clear. I did the same with the radiator before installing it. I let her sit and idle for a good 30 minutes or so varying the rpm and she never got close to overheating. As I was prepping the radiator for paint I was using some 150 grit to get rid of the paint and at the same time it really brought the brass to a nice shine. Instead of painting it I decided to leave the upper tank exposed brass and I think it looks really great. Pictures to follow! She gets new front tires tomorrow then it is time for a shakedown cruise!

[Don Coatney]

The spring is needed if you run a coolant recovery tank and a pressurized radiator cap.

 

I don't believe unpressurized cooling systems need a spring, as they just can't suck any vacuum.

You might want to re-think that. Every pump has a suction side and a discharge side irrelevant of system pressure. Atmospheric pressure is reduced on the suction side of the pump and it will collapse a rubber hose if it is not spring loaded or ribbed for added sidewall strength.

[Ulu]

Don, I believe you're right

 

I wasn't thinking that tiny water pump impeller could pull much vacuum when there's a good head of water above the pump's port (the P-15 radiator being so tall.)

 

That being said, I always ran a pressure cap & a recovery bottle on mine & always had a spring in the lower hose too.

[hendo0601]

FANTASTIC NEWS!!!! Early this morning I went to the local tire shop and had two new radials mounted and balanced for the front (already have radials out back), came home got them installed and promptly did my pre - drive safety checks, hopped in fired her up and drove a few blocks to the gas station. After brimming the tank I decided shakedown time is either now or never, so I drove a few miles through town, hopped on the interstate and cruised down to the next exit, came back through town to the house all without a hitch! The presto matic worked like a charm every time! She seemed kinda boggy when first getting on the interstate but after a few seconds it cleared up and she cruised along at 65 like it was nothing! I am back home now enjoying a celebratory beer and I feel just pure elation. Man this is a fun car to drive! Welcome to Cloud 9, population ME!

[Niel Hoback]

Congratulations. all your work is paying off in happiness!  They are wonderful old cars aren't they? 

[hendo0601]

They most certainly are! I drove her last fall when I first got her and she seemed really tired and lethargic, the bias ply tires up front wanted to go every which way and it was rather scary. This feels like a whole other car! I drove her to the local napa to buy a few washers to shim up the exhaust flange bolts to help quiet down the small leak I have going on and boy was there a crowd around her! The parts guy even gave me the washers for free, said my hard work paid off and I should get a reward. He saved me about 75 cents but still very cool of him!

[Dodgeb4ya]

Have you checked the steering gear for enough lube? It's the 5/8" fill plug on top of the sector cover-NOT the larger 3/4 Nut.

Few ever check it.

[hendo0601]

I have not checked it, but now that moves to the number 1 spot on my list of things to do. Should I discover it needs lubrication, what should I use?

[Dodgeb4ya]

85/90 W or even 140 will do fine..Just keep it full. I use Hyperlube in my 1 ton dodge.

[hendo0601]

I am wondering now if I should somehow drain the steering sector and refill it with clean gear oil? The rear differential is number 2 on my list so buying gear oil just makes sense.

[Dodgeb4ya]

There is no easy complete way to get the old oil/ grease out of your gemmer sideways sector steering box

Edited May 15, 2014 by Dodgeb4ya