dlrides Posted April 23, 2014 Report Posted April 23, 2014 (edited) '49 Suburban 6V system When I touch anything with electrons, it scrambles my brain ........... so bear with me ! Last week started the car, voltage regulator started clicking and ammeter jumping around then settled down and started working. Drove it several times since, same thing after start, then works properly. Pulled the regulator and found a burnt place on one of the windings. When looking for regulators I noticed some were positive ground, some were negative ground. Looked at the car, it's negative ground, so bought a Borg Warner negative ground. Previously, after starting, the ammeter would go to the discharge side until it ran for a few minutes to recharge battery, then back to zero. All the electrical on the car works great. Installed the new regulator, polarized, then started car. The ammeter now goes to the charge side ! Got out the service manual and noticed it's a positive ground system !!!!! ??? ) When charging should the ammeter go to the discharge or charge side ? ) When the car was changed to negative ground did they leave the positive ground regulator and the ammeter was displaying opposite ? ) Is the new negative ground regulator the one I should use ? I put the old regulator back on and all is as it was, just clicks a few times at first start Thanks in advance for the help, Don Edited April 23, 2014 by dlrides Quote
busycoupe Posted April 23, 2014 Report Posted April 23, 2014 The ammeter SHOULD go to the charge side of the gauge when the battery is being started. It sounds like your new regulator was working correctly. With the new regulator in place does the battery charge? Does the car start and run correctly? If you put a voltmeter on the battery posts does it show better than 7 volts with the engine running on afast idle? The meter should not read negative if the positive (red) lead is on the positive battery post. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted April 23, 2014 Report Posted April 23, 2014 There's a possibility that whoever switched to Neg ground didn't switch the wires on the ammeter. To test this switch on the headlights, or step on the brake to activate the brake lights with the engine OFF. The ammeter should move to the negative, or discharge, side. With the engine running the ammeter should move to the positive, or charging, side. Quote
_shel_ny Posted April 23, 2014 Report Posted April 23, 2014 More info may be needed. Is the battery installed pos, or neg ground? Was the car changed to neg ground, or was the battery just installed wrong? Hopefully someone will chime in to tell you how the coil should be connected for each. (pos, or neg) or you can search Things on the car will work. They don't care how the battery is connected. Quote
_shel_ny Posted April 23, 2014 Report Posted April 23, 2014 I don't really understand the difference between a neg ground, and pos ground voltage regulator. I believe I read somewhere that there is a difference as to which side of the contacts will get some build up on them over time. I have seen regulators that say pos or neg ground on them. Quote
_shel_ny Posted April 23, 2014 Report Posted April 23, 2014 The fact that you polarized the "generator" when you put in the new regulator (I do not believe that a regulator change requires polarizing) may be the reason that it now shows charge. Maybe PO did not polarize. Quote
dlrides Posted April 23, 2014 Author Report Posted April 23, 2014 Car is negative ground. I don't know whether it was changed, or the battery was installed wrong, I've running it for months and battery has been staying charged. Putting out 6.7 volts at high idle. Since it's hooked up negative ground , does this mean the ammeter was reading backwards ? Quote
Niel Hoback Posted April 23, 2014 Report Posted April 23, 2014 Yes, if no one reversed the wires on the back of it. Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted April 23, 2014 Report Posted April 23, 2014 Car is negative ground. I don't know whether it was changed, or the battery was installed wrong, I've running it for months and battery has been staying charged. Putting out 6.7 volts at high idle. Since it's hooked up negative ground , does this mean the ammeter was reading backwards ? Probably . As Merle said above , the wires on the amp meter might have been on the wrong terminals for negative ground , that would have made the amp meter read backwards . I run my truck with negative ground and it was positive ground when new . Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted April 24, 2014 Report Posted April 24, 2014 The regulator is supposed to be polarized too. It tells how in the repair/service manual. In your case, if things are working, you might leave it alone. Quote
Don Coatney Posted April 24, 2014 Report Posted April 24, 2014 The regulator is supposed to be polarized too. It tells how in the repair/service manual. In your case, if things are working, you might leave it alone. The regulator does not need to be polarized. It has no parts inside that require polarization. The generator needs to be polarized and this is done at the regulator. Quote
navyboy Posted April 24, 2014 Report Posted April 24, 2014 ONE thing I dont have to ever mess with again, 6V optima battery in combination with 6V postitive ground alternator was the best things I have dine for the car other than the added 6V electric fuel pump. Quote
martybose Posted April 24, 2014 Report Posted April 24, 2014 ONE thing I dont have to ever mess with again, 6V optima battery in combination with 6V postitive ground alternator was the best things I have dine for the car other than the added 6V electric fuel pump. You should really put in a headlight relay, upgrade the wiring to the headlights, and get some 6V 60W halogen headlight bulbs, and light up the night! Marty, been there, did that ........ Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.